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Help with temps/overclock E8600 with H100 cooling - Page 3

post #21 of 46
I actually had to reseat my h100 when I thought it was quite secure. It wasn't making full contact... I would really suggest you tighten the screws in the order shown in the manual (assuming your hoses are pointing in the same direction as the manual pics). You have to make sure you really have it in place before tightening the screws, the hoses always make it want to lift off the CPU a little.
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post #22 of 46
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Accuracy158 View Post

I actually had to reseat my h100 when I thought it was quite secure. It wasn't making full contact... I would really suggest you tighten the screws in the order shown in the manual (assuming your hoses are pointing in the same direction as the manual pics). You have to make sure you really have it in place before tightening the screws, the hoses always make it want to lift off the CPU a little.

Thank you for the reply. I did tighten the screws in the cross pattern shown in the manual. It installed very nicely, but one reality about this chip has always been that one core is always 7-8 degrees hotter than the other. I have a feeling lapping it it will help with that, and will surely drop the temps anyway. I'll get a photo of the rig in here eventually. I just haven't wanted to disconnect it and get it set up for a proper photo shoot.

Thanks again. +repping b/c I really appreciate peeps who try to help!
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post #23 of 46

RedStapler, Nice to see your thread gets revived again! biggrin.gif

 

TIM choices:

 

Cheap but good ones: MX-2 or MX-4

 

Expensive but better ones: Shin Etsu or IC Diamond 7

 

P.S.: Try to avoid using Arctic Silver 5 (AS5)... it's not recommended by many users on OCN... for it takes 200hr to cure... thinking.gif

 

Cotton, thank you for agreeing with me. biggrin.gif


Edited by ocman - 2/19/12 at 5:39am
     
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post #24 of 46
Quote:
Hey there, thank you very much for a reply! I've been getting some help on this issue over on the p45 mobo owners club as well. The question about the plastic cover made me laugh. A lot. YES I took the big, heavy plastic cover off the cooling block prior to installation. It's a fair question; you don't know me, and these things DO happen. But not this time. Hahaha...

No animosity meant smile.gif

I have seen it happen here before.

Quote:
Large in place FFT using LESS THAN "auto" voltages and 433 x 7.5 is STABLE and not too hot, hovering around 65 and maxing at 69 for six hours. Increasing the mult, however, requires BIG increases to vCore, resulting in BIG jumps in max temps, and this process has yet to yield a stable OC above 4GHz.

So as far as I can tell, the issue is NOT with the FSB or Ram, both of which test stable at 433 x 7.5 with 1.18 vCore, 1.28 vNB and 1.14 vFSB. (These are down from the "auto" voltages of 1.19, 1.39, and 1.20, respectively.) So leaving the FSB, NB, and Ram completely alone now, the whole effort shifts to getting the CPU to play at 4.35 like it did before, by increasing the mult above 7.5. Simply upping the PLL to 1.52 and VCore to 1.30 is enough to at least get me into windows (which will BSOD trying to boot under 1.2125v vcore).

You may need to establish term voltages. How confident are you with your RAM clock? Have you tried a post 4GHZ clock with 5-5-5-15? Once you start getting past 4-4.3GHZ locking in overclocks take quite a bit more time investment. In the past I ran my NB at 1.34 and my FSB at 1.28 or 1.30 (1.28 was ran at the higher clocks since my board actually enjoyed a little under-volting). I would also try lowering the FSB clock and upping the CPU multiplier, especially at 4.3GHZ. But first I would try the voltage changes I mentioned. It may require a small vcore bump, infact I know it will if its bsoding under Large FFTs, and your cooler may just be suffering from what I bring up later. My E8500 was taking 1.42vcore at 4.5GHZ and that was a very good chip. I am not going to lie, getting a 24/7 4.3GHZ will take some very fine tuning.

Another suggestion would be to track down someones proven MIT template from the motherboard thread that you have been reading. This may give you a good benchmark to start locking in all of your settings. Every chip is different.

Also, when it comes right down to it, if you're trying to keep 4.3GHZ you just may be hitting the cooler's limits of stabilization. If its steadily gaining in temperature while Large FFT testing that means the cooler just is not doing the job you need done. Sometimes it happens and that is when you move to a custom loop or find a more conservative overclock, such as 4GHZ. Sh** really does start to get real for these chips past 4GHZ.

Quote:
You got any personal recommendations for the best available TIM?

The TIMs that ocman suggested are perfect. If you happen to shop locally, depending on your stores, Arctic Silver 5 will be a good "3rd place" if the MX series or IC7 are not available. It will hold you over if you decide to purchase one online. The differences will be subjective, but the pastes listed by ocman are better pastes in my opinion.
   
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post #25 of 46

Hey RedStapler, you might want to check out Cotton's 775 rig pics on (E8500 E0) BIOS settings from his signature! specool.gif

 

Cotton, I appreciate you help here! thumbsupsmiley.png

 

P.S.: RedStapler, it's the poster above me just in case you wonder. wink.gif


Edited by ocman - 2/19/12 at 5:54am
     
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post #26 of 46
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cotton View Post

Quote:
Hey there, thank you very much for a reply! I've been getting some help on this issue over on the p45 mobo owners club as well. The question about the plastic cover made me laugh. A lot. YES I took the big, heavy plastic cover off the cooling block prior to installation. It's a fair question; you don't know me, and these things DO happen. But not this time. Hahaha...
No animosity meant smile.gif
I have seen it happen here before.
Quote:
Large in place FFT using LESS THAN "auto" voltages and 433 x 7.5 is STABLE and not too hot, hovering around 65 and maxing at 69 for six hours. Increasing the mult, however, requires BIG increases to vCore, resulting in BIG jumps in max temps, and this process has yet to yield a stable OC above 4GHz.
So as far as I can tell, the issue is NOT with the FSB or Ram, both of which test stable at 433 x 7.5 with 1.18 vCore, 1.28 vNB and 1.14 vFSB. (These are down from the "auto" voltages of 1.19, 1.39, and 1.20, respectively.) So leaving the FSB, NB, and Ram completely alone now, the whole effort shifts to getting the CPU to play at 4.35 like it did before, by increasing the mult above 7.5. Simply upping the PLL to 1.52 and VCore to 1.30 is enough to at least get me into windows (which will BSOD trying to boot under 1.2125v vcore).
You may need to establish term voltages. How confident are you with your RAM clock? Have you tried a post 4GHZ clock with 5-5-5-15? Once you start getting past 4-4.3GHZ locking in overclocks take quite a bit more time investment. In the past I ran my NB at 1.34 and my FSB at 1.28 or 1.30 (1.28 was ran at the higher clocks since my board actually enjoyed a little under-volting). I would also try lowering the FSB clock and upping the CPU multiplier, especially at 4.3GHZ. But first I would try the voltage changes I mentioned. It may require a small vcore bump, infact I know it will if its bsoding under Large FFTs, and your cooler may just be suffering from what I bring up later. My E8500 was taking 1.42vcore at 4.5GHZ and that was a very good chip. I am not going to lie, getting a 24/7 4.3GHZ will take some very fine tuning.
Another suggestion would be to track down someones proven MIT template from the motherboard thread that you have been reading. This may give you a good benchmark to start locking in all of your settings. Every chip is different.
Also, when it comes right down to it, if you're trying to keep 4.3GHZ you just may be hitting the cooler's limits of stabilization. If its steadily gaining in temperature while Large FFT testing that means the cooler just is not doing the job you need done. Sometimes it happens and that is when you move to a custom loop or find a more conservative overclock, such as 4GHZ. Sh** really does start to get real for these chips past 4GHZ.
Quote:
You got any personal recommendations for the best available TIM?
The TIMs that ocman suggested are perfect. If you happen to shop locally, depending on your stores, Arctic Silver 5 will be a good "3rd place" if the MX series or IC7 are not available. It will hold you over if you decide to purchase one online. The differences will be subjective, but the pastes listed by ocman are better pastes in my opinion.

Thanks for the reply. What confuses me about all this is just that I had a 4.35GHz stable OC with this chip, mobo and ram, but I was using an Asus v60 air cooler, which should be far less capable. However, the v60 created a totally stable 4.35GHz OC for THREE YEARS without a hitch. It was only two weeks ago when I changed out the cooler that I have suddenly had all these problems, including a total inability to reach the previously stable OC of 4.35GHz which, for the record, didn't take much of anything when I did it back then.

Additionally, I'm not getting a BSOD when I use large FFT and a low mult. If you re-read again, you'll notice that I am able to go as far as 433MHz with a 6x mult on UNDER-volts, six hours stable. SIX HOURS STABLE! So I'm *very* confident that I'm not running into a problem with the Ram or FSB. The only thing left is the CPU, right? Please tell me if I'm missing something here, but if I can run a Large FFT stress test with 433x6 and have no problems (with either stability OR heat) then that doesn't need any more tweaking right?

I'll drop the settings down on it just to see, but I can assure you that for 3 years that ram has run at 867 with 4.4.4.12 timings. I'll order a good TIM and reseat when it arrives. Right now I'm getting more frustrated with this than I should, mostly because like I say, I've had a stable 4.35OC for 3 years and then I "upgraded" the cooler. That's a laugh.

I have used templates on several occasions to try to short circuit some of the process for OC'ing my rig, however, I have found that the best way to approach an OC is with due diligence. If you read back through some of the stuff I've posted here and in the Mobo thrad, you'll see I've done a lot of step by stepping my way into this and the very real facts are that this cooler isn't performing anywhere near as well as my Asus v60 did, whether because it's a piece of junk or because I've messed something up I'm not yet sure, but I'd be more inclined to believe it's the latter.

I put all my BIOS settings in a post in the mobo thread, too, so if you'd like to peek at them and see what I've got going on, that'd be cool. I am once again running out of ideas and the technical skill required to solve this problem, basically at the same point I had when I first posted this thread.

EDIT: Just ordered some IC Diamond 7 from Ebay and I'll do a reseat when it arrives. Any recommendations for the meanwhile would be welcomed.
Edited by RedStapler - 2/19/12 at 11:10am
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post #27 of 46

Okay RedStapler, so you did get 433 with 6x prime stable. Then probably all that left is to bump up VCore and/or vFSB to 433 with 10x stability. thumbsupsmiley.png

 

I wonder "if" it's really H-100's problem due to malfunction... can you return it to the store you got it from or get a RMA for it if the former option is no good?

 

That preapplied if still the same being Shin Etsu should be good enough... I have a fun thought... why not later try uninstall the H-100 and try your ASUS V60 again and see if you see improvements.

 

Just to troubleshoot the problem. biggrin.gif

     
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post #28 of 46
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ocman View Post

Okay RedStapler, so you did get 433 with 6x prime stable. Then probably all that left is to bump up VCore and/or vFSB to 433 with 10x stability. thumbsupsmiley.png

 

I wonder "if" it's really H-100's problem due to malfunction... can you return it to the store you got it from or get a RMA for it if the former option is no good?

 

That preapplied if still the same being Shin Etsu should be good enough... I have a fun thought... why not later try uninstall the H-100 and try your ASUS V60 again and see if you see improvements.

 

Just to troubleshoot the problem. biggrin.gif


I replaced the v60 because the fan had developed a death rattle. I'd need to replace the fan in it, but that's not a bad idea, just to check out the performance and compare.

So yes, it seems like all that SHOULD BE left is to bump the vCore to support the increased CPU speed. Would I need to increase the FSB volts to accommodate a higher mult? Or would the mult only be affected by the vcore/pll voltages?

Yes, I can return the H100 to Fry's for a replacement, I'm sure, or I could RMA it to Corsair, if that proves necessary. The pre-applied TIM is the shin etsu so yes, that should be more than sufficient from what I've read as well - it's definitely better than the AS5 I have on hand. Lots of people said there's no point in removing the preapplied TIM and replacing it since the TIM they used is so high quality. Obviously, I don't want to replace it with AS5 so I'll be waiting for platinum micro to send out my IC Diamond. Hope to have it by the end of the week. Bleh!

I'm running 400x10 right now, and have been stress testing it for 10 hours now. Stable, but max temps are high at 77 degrees. Way too high. It would maybe be good to try troubleshooting the heat on this OC first rather than trying to go over 4.0 just to try to fix any settings problems, but I'm so out of ideas I could pull out my hair, and reseating isn't going to be an option for several days.

BOOOO!

Thanks to everyone, especially OCMan for giving my troubles so much of your own time and attention. I really do appreciate it.
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post #29 of 46

vFSB needs to be increased as the VCore or Multiplier or FSB increases...

 

Not sure what FSB Termination Voltage (vFSB) exactly meant to do...

 

but I think it should be set close to the same or above VCore value... in case system gets "terminated"... tongue.gif

 

Just a wild guess. rolleyes.gif

 

P.S.: RedStapler, check out the pics in Cotton 75 rig link for the BIOS settings for reference.


Edited by ocman - 2/19/12 at 8:29pm
     
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40GB 5400RPM / Toshiba MK4032GAX Combo Drive: 24x/10x/24x CD-RW and 8x DVD-ROM Dell Inspiron B120 WinXP SP3 
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14.1" WXGA TFT Display with 1280 x 800 resolution Dell Inspiron B120 Dell Inspiron B120 Dell Inspiron B120 
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post #30 of 46
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ocman View Post

vFSB needs to be increased as the VCore or Multiplier or FSB increases...

 

Note sure what FSB Termination Voltage (vFSB) exactly meant to do...

 

but I think it should be set close to the same or above VCore value... in case system gets "terminated"... tongue.gif

 

Just a wild guess. rolleyes.gif

 

P.S.: RedStapler, check out the pics in Cotton 75 rig link for the BIOS settings for reference.


I looked at his settings which mostly confused me, but if I was able to match up the voltages and other settings properly, it leaps to a temp so high that my overheat protection settings shut my system down. (Thank you, Core Temp.) I don't have any reason to even want to push a 500 FSB though I've done it stably for 6 hours on large fft's with a 6x mult.

I have this baseline of performance from the past 3 years that can't be ignored. I've watched my system boot up and report 4.35GHz and DDR2 867 AT LEAST 1500 times. I am certain it's been stable and safe on temps. So really, I gotta find the problem and eliminate it. Best guess right now is just the seating. I'll be trying reseating when I get good goo. Which I ordered today. drunken.gif

I currently am logged into a very unstable 433x10 session with 1.30v vCore, 1.55v NB, 1.42v FSB and 2.18v Ram, set on 5.5.5.15 timings. It roasts when I try P95, which fails in under a minute.
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System 2.0
(18 items)
 
Viva la P45!
(15 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 2600k ASRock Z77 Extreme-4M NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 Corsair  
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Samsung 840 SSD Seagate Barracuda ST3000DM001 Seagate ST4000DM000 Asus Multi DVD Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Corsair H100 Windows 7 Ultimate x64 Planar PXL 2430 MW Sceptre 46" LCD TV 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
IBM Model M Antec TPQ 1000 NZXT Tempest 410 Elite Black Logitech Performance MX 
Mouse PadOther
FUNC Industries Ceton InfiniTV 4 PCIe 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core 2 Duo E8600 Maximus II Formula Radeon HD 4870 G.Skill Pi Series 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Western Digital Caviar Black Asus Lightscribe DVD Burner Asus v-60 Windows 7 Ultimate x64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Viewsonic VX2235wm (22" Widescreen) Microsoft Sidewinder X6 OCZ 750w Antec 300 
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Razer Diamondback Alienware (Func) Supreme FX X-Fi (MoBo Paired) 
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