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(Reviewed) $400 2560x1440 IPS no-AG 90hz+ Achieva Shimian QH270 and Catleap Q270 - Page 218

Poll Results: Vote when your Achieva/Catleap monitor comes in.

 
  • 41% (232)
    Achieva QH270
  • 2% (12)
    Achieva QH270 (DOA / didn't recieve)
  • 8% (46)
    Achieva QH270 (Dead pixel(s) / flawed panel)
  • 40% (224)
    Catleap Q270
  • 1% (8)
    Catleap Q270 (DOA / didn't recieve)
  • 5% (33)
    Catleap Q270 (Dead pixel(s) / flawed panel)
555 Total Votes  
post #2171 of 4784
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elg4r View Post

However I do hear a slight high pitched noise on some web pages. Mainly those with white backgrounds - does anyone have similar issues? Changing the brightness doesn't seem to make much difference.

I'm still not entirely convinced it's safe to run these at 110v. If the adapter was designed for 220v it may work, but it could be running them out of tolerance (since at half the voltage you're doing twice as much current, which means it needs to be able to absorb more heat in the design).

Anyone have a good photo of the adapter?

Edit: I mention this because the noise/brightness thing sounds like a power issue.
Edited by pabloedvardo - 3/13/12 at 5:08pm
    
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post #2172 of 4784
Quote:
Originally Posted by pabloedvardo View Post

I'm still not entirely convinced it's safe to run these at 110v. If the adapter was designed for 220v it may work, but it could be running them out of tolerance (since at half the voltage you're doing twice as much current, which means it needs to be able to absorb more heat in the design).
Anyone have a good photo of the adapter?

You may have twice the current, but power usage (wattage), and thus heat that needs to be dissipated, remains the same.
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post #2173 of 4784
I'm having an issue with my Catleap Q270 which just arrived.

It came with the Korean power adapter for the DC converter, which was to be expected. I plugged in a US power cable, and set up my monitor. However, the LED light on the monitor and the power brick just keep blinking red.

If I unplug everything, and just plug the brick into AC (and not into the monitor), the brick LED lights up green. However, once I plug in the DC plug to the monitor, the monitor and the brick start blinking red. It doesn't matter if the DVI cable is plugged in.

I've tried it with 2 different US power cords; with the DVI cable they sent and one of my own, and on the two different DVI outputs of my video card between various stages of PC being on/off/rebooted. No different - the monitor's display never lights up at all.

It is worth nothing that Windows 7 notices that the monitor is attached (I have a second monitor hooked up which allows me to change display settings to troubleshoot), and Windows correctly identifies the Catleap's native resolution.


Any ideas? Is it an issue with the DC adapter, or the monitor? The DC adapter is a Welltronics WTS-2405W. IT says input is 110-240V AC, 50/60Hz, 1.5A - which should be fine. Output is labeled as 24V DC, 5.0A.

Here are some pictures of the adapter:
450
450
700
post #2174 of 4784
Quote:
Originally Posted by pabloedvardo View Post

I'm still not entirely convinced it's safe to run these at 110v. If the adapter was designed for 220v it may work, but it could be running them out of tolerance (since at half the voltage you're doing twice as much current, which means it needs to be able to absorb more heat in the design).
Anyone have a good photo of the adapter?
Edit: I mention this because the noise/brightness thing sounds like a power issue.

It says 110-240 on it, never seen a power brick that didn't to be honest.

Also, Just got my catleap today no tempered glass version from green-sum. It is flawless, ran dead pixel tests and I am in love with this thing. Too bad I just sold my 6870s and am using a 460 until kepler comes but meh, 1gb should be fine for light gaming. I am so stoked, will throw up some photos after i finish putting together my new desk
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post #2175 of 4784
Quote:
Originally Posted by r34p3rex View Post

You may have twice the current, but power usage (wattage), and thus heat that needs to be dissipated, remains the same.

That's not entirely correct (yes it is in an ohm's law V=IR kind of way), but more specifically, at a higher current you may have more heat losses when using thinner wire. A thin enough wire can become a resistor and therefore add extra load and overheat or burn up/short.

This is why cables are rated for a specific amperage, so they don't heat up and cause a fire.

Also, is SK power 50hz or 60hz? Depending on the transformers used a slight mismatch of frequency could cause issues. We need somebody with some circuit experience to open up their power brick.

Edit: Okay, thanks to the photo from nylith I can put my worries to rest. Thank you sir! Looks all good. As long as everyone's adapter says 110-220 and 50/60 you're safe. Just wanted to get that out there.
    
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post #2176 of 4784
Quote:
Originally Posted by pabloedvardo View Post

Edit: Okay, thanks to the photo from nylith I can put my worries to rest. Thank you sir! Looks all good. As long as everyone's adapter says 110-220 and 50/60 you're safe. Just wanted to get that out there.

Yes, my photo should end the theoretical debate on the usage of 110v with the adapter. Now I just need to figure out what is wrong with my particular monitor/adapter.
post #2177 of 4784
Looking like they may have switched power bricks, because the one pictured in the first page of the thread, lists only 230v. I did a quick search and found some documentation on it and it was listed as 230v from the mfg, not wide range.

Pulled from the thread:
400

Link to MFG spec's on above adapter:
FPS0120-05A

More than likely even the above adapter is fine, they may not list it as wide range because of the market it's made for. Worst thing is the brick will be smoked.
Edited by metal409 - 3/13/12 at 5:48pm
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post #2178 of 4784
Quote:
Originally Posted by metal409 View Post

Looking like they may have switched power bricks, because the one pictured in the first page of the thread, lists only 230v. I did a quick search and found some documentation on it and it was listed as 230v from the mfg, not wide range.
Pulled from the thread:
400
Link to MFG spec's on above adapter:
FPS0120-05A
Interesting - this looks like the exact same one from the Crossover review that's been linked in here several times. Really wish one person who's ordered one would get theirs so we can see what to expect...

If the crossovers do in fact come with this power brick, will that be an issue?

Here's the review for reference: http://techinsight.tistory.com/tag/Cross%20Over%2027Q%20LED-P
Edited by araman - 3/13/12 at 5:51pm
post #2179 of 4784
Quote:
Originally Posted by metal409 View Post

Looking like they may have switched power bricks, because the one pictured in the first page of the thread, lists only 230v. I did a quick search and found some documentation on it and it was listed as 230v from the mfg, not wide range.
The Shimian and the Catleap come with different power bricks. The one from the first page is from the Shimian. The Catleap comes with the Welltronics adapter.
post #2180 of 4784
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToastyX View Post

The Shimian and the Catleap come with different power bricks. The one from the first page is from the Shimian. The Catleap comes with the Welltronics adapter.

Yeah, I just looked over the first page more closely. I was going to post exactly what you said, lol. Reading > Me. Looking like Crossover and Shimian both use the Frontek adapter.
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