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(Reviewed) $400 2560x1440 IPS no-AG 90hz+ Achieva Shimian QH270 and Catleap Q270 - Page 272

Poll Results: Vote when your Achieva/Catleap monitor comes in.

 
  • 41% (232)
    Achieva QH270
  • 2% (12)
    Achieva QH270 (DOA / didn't recieve)
  • 8% (46)
    Achieva QH270 (Dead pixel(s) / flawed panel)
  • 40% (224)
    Catleap Q270
  • 1% (8)
    Catleap Q270 (DOA / didn't recieve)
  • 5% (33)
    Catleap Q270 (Dead pixel(s) / flawed panel)
555 Total Votes  
post #2711 of 4784
Sorry to hear about your monitor issue, 87dtna. I hope you can get things squared away. Let me know if you need me to test anything with mine for comparison.

Maybe its just the power brick. Does yours ever monitor led switch to green at all? When I unplug mine from the PC and turn it on, it goes from red and then blinks green.
post #2712 of 4784
Greetings everyone,

First a big thank you for everyone who's contributed to this ENORMOUS fast changing thread! Especially those who posted pictures, summarized technical data, provided post-purchase feedback etc. All your info made my decision much easier, after spending 2 hours reading some 30+ pages of posts biggrin.gif

So I've just ordered the following monitor: CROSSOVER 27Q LED-P 27" DVI Computer Monitor (QHD) 2560X1440 16:9 Pivot for $422.50 USD from dcsamsungmall over at ebay. This guy has a 99.7% approval rating.

Why I chose the CROSSOVER 27Q LED-P:
1) I am not a gamer nor will I be watching movies on this thing, it's strickly for surfing web, MS Office, photoshop and 2D apps. So I don't care about not being able to overclock beyond 60Hz.
2) I have 2 other 19" 4:3 Samsung monitors that I need to vertically align to for a 3 monitor setup. The "Pivot" version of the Crossover comes with an adjustable stand.
3) My previous (center) monitor was a 24" Samsung Synchmaster 244T which only lasted me 3 years before it died, and I paid over $1,000 for that one! One of the things I did value in that monitor was the solid and adjustable stand. From what I've read on here, many people complain of how flimsy the Leap and other monitors were, and mine is not going to be wall mounted, it will be sitting on a desk, so as lame as it might seem, my main decision was based on the stand! LOL

I also looked at the LED-M model, but I just don't have a use for all those different connections. They simply aren't worth another $200.

Some feedback to the thread/forum moderators & regular posters:
  • Somebody please make a webpage or wiki for each monitor model. It's impossible to read all 296 pages of posts! There's been a few users that have been kind enough to aggregate technical details from others and do a summary re-post, this would be even better in a web page/wiki.
  • I only found 1x Youtube video of the Crossover 27" monitor from a guy that did a 1.5 minute review. Let's see MORE YOUTUBE VIDEO REVIEWS PLEASE!
  • The Thread poll does not include a Crossover model, please add it to the poll.
  • Please provide more feedback for the onscreen controls of the various monitors. A few posts suggested some monitors can only adjust brightness !? again, I only read 30 of some 296 pages of posts, so possibly it was already commented.

Thanks again everyone, and if I have time (no promises) I will try to post some feedback after I get my monitor.
Regards
Adeptus
Edited by adeptus - 3/19/12 at 6:58pm
post #2713 of 4784
Quote:
Originally Posted by lionelhuts View Post


green-sum - $431.00 (Perfect Pixel SE)
green-sum - $457.70 (Perfect Pixel Non-SE)

Hey I guess I missed something along the way here. What does SE and Non-SE mean? What's SE stand for and what's the difference between the two?
COMPYTRON-9000
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 2600k ASUS P8-Z68 V PRO Gigabyte GTX 670 4GB Corsair Vengeance RAM 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung Spinpoint F4 2TB Generic DVD RW Noctua  Windows 7 Ultimate 
MonitorPowerCaseMouse
Yamakasi Catleap Q270 Corsair 850w Professional Silverstone  Mionix Naos 5000 
Audio
KRK Rokit 6 
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COMPYTRON-9000
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 2600k ASUS P8-Z68 V PRO Gigabyte GTX 670 4GB Corsair Vengeance RAM 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung Spinpoint F4 2TB Generic DVD RW Noctua  Windows 7 Ultimate 
MonitorPowerCaseMouse
Yamakasi Catleap Q270 Corsair 850w Professional Silverstone  Mionix Naos 5000 
Audio
KRK Rokit 6 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2714 of 4784
Quote:
Originally Posted by THX152 View Post

Sorry to hear about your monitor issue, 87dtna. I hope you can get things squared away. Let me know if you need me to test anything with mine for comparison.
Maybe its just the power brick. Does yours ever monitor led switch to green at all? When I unplug mine from the PC and turn it on, it goes from red and then blinks green.

If you have a multi meter could you test your power brick? Mine's only coming up at 18v.

My friend said he thinks it would atleast spike green also, but it's not doing that frown.gif
post #2715 of 4784
Quote:
Originally Posted by adeptus View Post

  • Somebody please make a webpage or wiki for each monitor model. It's impossible to read all 296 pages of posts! There's been a few users that have been kind enough to aggregate technical details from others and do a summary re-post, this would be even better in a web page/wiki.
I'm working on a comprehensive review for the catleap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by adeptus View Post

  • Please provide more feedback for the onscreen controls of the various monitors. A few posts suggested some monitors can only adjust brightness !? again, I only read 30 of some 296 pages of posts, so possibly it was already commented.
All the basic models only have brightness up/down buttons (and volume up/down buttons if it has speakers), no on-screen display (OSD). The ones with HDMI probably have an OSD with more controls, but they're not really needed for computer use.
post #2716 of 4784
Quote:
Originally Posted by NameMakingSux View Post

Hey I guess I missed something along the way here. What does SE and Non-SE mean? What's SE stand for and what's the difference between the two?

SE is the lite version - only a DVI and no OSD. The non-SE I assume is the "MULTI" version (which has more inputs and may have an OSD) but it'd pay to check.
post #2717 of 4784
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adhunt View Post

SE is the lite version - only a DVI and no OSD. The non-SE I assume is the "MULTI" version (which has more inputs and may have an OSD) but it'd pay to check.
The non-SE has speakers while the SE doesn't. The multi version is a separate model.
post #2718 of 4784
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87dtna View Post

yes....? Check to see if it's 24v? Even if it has 24v it might not have the amperage needed behind it. But I will check anyway I guess.
Right about the current, the voltage could be the problem.

EDIT
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87dtna View Post

If you have a multi meter could you test your power brick? Mine's only coming up at 18v.
My friend said he thinks it would atleast spike green also, but it's not doing that frown.gif
Interesting. According to the reviewer at the link below, his voltmeter for his Achieva did in fact register 24V dc:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270

If the panels are indeed the same, this sounds like the problem.
post #2719 of 4784
I can try and test mine as well for comparison. Will keep you posted.

So with that said, how do you get a replacement brick? I did a quick search and came up empty. Perhaps one of the sellers?
post #2720 of 4784
Just got my Catleap in today, it's a tempered glass without speakers from Green-sum. The stand sucks balls. However, I had planned for this and gotten myself an Ergotron MX monitor arm and that thing is a beast. Needed a few washers to get the right screw length, but it worked out. I have a 2B model (I ordered mine last Monday).

Comments...

It buzzes :-/ I was trying out the refresh rate tool, and it was buzzing like mad. I'm not sure that I'm getting the full 85hz outta the thing (I'm currently running an HD5770). It seems that I'm dropping frames?

I think I have a few dead subpixels around the panel, but they are not going to be bothering me. I have a piece of dust in the upper right hand corner, but that's my fault (I did open it up). When you open the monitor up, you expose the inside of the glass, so getting it out will be very possible although annoying.

On the internals side, my monitor came with two connections to the logic board; I presume this means 85hz is possible for me?

Anyhow, overall it is a beautiful screen. Perfect? No, not quite. But very good overall. Now to calibrate the thing. The only flaw with my particular panel is the buzzing. I will have to take it apart to see... it buzzes when I ran the full screen refresh rate tool. Seems to depend on what's running? Anyone else get buzzing?
399
Edited by kevinsbane - 3/19/12 at 8:23pm
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