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What are some great car speakers? - Page 4

post #31 of 39
Thread Starter 
Would it be dumb to get something like this: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_39856_4800W-Cerwin-Vega-Hifonics-Bass-Bundle.html when I can afford it, and than add on from there?
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post #32 of 39
Thread Starter 
Would it be dumb to get something like this: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_39856_4800W-Cerwin-Vega-Hifonics-Bass-Bundle.html when I can afford it, and than add on from there?

EDIT: can someone delete this one, I didn't mean to double post.
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post #33 of 39
I don't recommend playing the big watts trying to overcome inefficiency game in a vehicle with such a small alternator (Actually, I don't ever recommend playing that game period, but that's personal preference). IMO The subs you have can sound just fine with some proper EQ and possibly some slight mods to the boxes unless you are after raw SPL that they can't achieve. Just for the sake of argument, consider for a moment how many amps it takes to supply 1000W @ 12V. Assuming class D 90% efficiency, that's 1000W / 0.9 / 12V = 93A. The Rio we owned years ago had I believe an 80A alternator in it, and you are talking about a system rated 2400W RMS. Granted the newer model probably has a beefier alternator than the older ones, but still, how much bigger do you realistically think it is? 120A? 140A? Doesn't matter. Don't cause yourself those headaches.


The picture of the kia motor was either a 2000 or 2002, lots of changes since then so you probably have nothing to worry about. Those engines were notorious for random death like that. I will personally probably hold a grudge for awhile as it left my Wife stranded on the highway and it wasn't a "normal" sort of car failure that I could do a roadside repair on with a few tests and a trip to the parts store.
     
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post #34 of 39
Thread Starter 
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27288_RE-Audio-XT-1600.2V3.html
Would this power some pretty decent subs compared to what I have?
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post #35 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnieos View Post

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27288_RE-Audio-XT-1600.2V3.html
Would this power some pretty decent subs compared to what I have?

It's only a 200w 2ch amplifier. You should be looking for a monoblock to power subs. Look into the Audiopipe AP10001D through the AP18001D ($140-200 amplifiers). I think the 15001D is about $150 at vmiinnovations. Those amplifiers will put out a TRUE 1,000-1,800w RMS (depending on the load).
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post #36 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post

It's only a 200w 2ch amplifier. You should be looking for a monoblock to power subs. Look into the Audiopipe AP10001D through the AP18001D ($140-200 amplifiers). I think the 15001D is about $150 at vmiinnovations. Those amplifiers will put out a TRUE 1,000-1,800w RMS (depending on the load).

Where is he going to get 1800W FROM?!?!?! Your recommendation is a great way to leave him stranded somewhere with a fried alternator.
     
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post #37 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdocod View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post

It's only a 200w 2ch amplifier. You should be looking for a monoblock to power subs. Look into the Audiopipe AP10001D through the AP18001D ($140-200 amplifiers). I think the 15001D is about $150 at vmiinnovations. Those amplifiers will put out a TRUE 1,000-1,800w RMS (depending on the load).

Where is he going to get 1800W FROM?!?!?! Your recommendation is a great way to leave him stranded somewhere with a fried alternator.

The AP10001D would suffice fine honestly. And that's 1,000w RMS at 1ohm. There's nothing saying he HAS to use 1ohm on it. With a 4ohm load its only 400w RMS, and a 2ohm load is 600w RMS. That's all easily able to be ran off stock electrical. With a big 3 upgrade he could easily handle the 1ohm load at 1,000w.

You'd be very surprised what alternators are capable of handling with the right upgrades done. The best bang for the buck sub amp is the 15001D though at $150.

And who's to say that he has to TUNE the amp at that kind of power levels either? He could always just keep it tuned down for less power if his charging system isn't up to snuff. He's still be better off than running some junk 2 channel amp.
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post #38 of 39
If the AP1000D is capable of those power levels, cleanly, for that price, I'd say it's a great value, and most people would do well to run it at a fraction of maximum output to keep the electrical load and other distortion levels low.

The problem I have with "big wattage" approach is the incredible effect of diminishing returns. In a car, box space is limited so you are usually forced to run sealed boxes if you want any reasonable sound quality. Assuming box size stays the same, every few dB becomes exponentially more costly on the power front to achieve as greater Xmax and Pe usually results in reduced driver efficiency. The end result is that it's not uncommon to see a 1000W system that can only achieve a few dB better than a 100W system. I believe there are better ways to get those few extra dB that don't require the esoteric power levels.
     
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post #39 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdocod View Post

If the AP1000D is capable of those power levels, cleanly, for that price, I'd say it's a great value, and most people would do well to run it at a fraction of maximum output to keep the electrical load and other distortion levels low.

The problem I have with "big wattage" approach is the incredible effect of diminishing returns. In a car, box space is limited so you are usually forced to run sealed boxes if you want any reasonable sound quality. Assuming box size stays the same, every few dB becomes exponentially more costly on the power front to achieve as greater Xmax and Pe usually results in reduced driver efficiency. The end result is that it's not uncommon to see a 1000W system that can only achieve a few dB better than a 100W system. I believe there are better ways to get those few extra dB that don't require the esoteric power levels.

I was just giving him a good amplifier recommendation. I never once said that he HAD to use all the power it had available. The AP15001D is a solid budget amp at $153. It can do 1500w cleanly with 14.4v. About 1200w cleanly with around 12v (all at 1ohm). Obviously with a higher impedance means less power. And that does NOT mean he has to have the gain matched to put out anywhere NEAR that kind of power either.

I'm currently running 600w RMS at 2ohm in my car. Everything is 110% bone stock electrical, and I don't have a single bit of electrical problem. And this is all with tiny little 8ga wire too. I fail to see how recommending him an amplifier that will do the same with a single sub (2ohm load) would harm his car any.

And there's no problems with pushing a subwoofer to what it'll take honestly. No reason to give it 100w when it'll take 600.
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2320 @ 3.1GHz MSI B75MA-E33 HIS HD7970 3GB @ 1050 / 1700, 1.17v Patriot 2x4GB DDR3-1066 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Crucial MX100 256GB WD Green 2TB DVDRW Corsair H50 Push / Pull 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
NZXT 120mm fans strapped to stock 7970 cooler Windows 10 Pro Dell 3007WFP Dell 2007FP 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell 2007FP Cheap Toshiba (R.I.P. Ducky) PC Power & Cooling Silencer MKIII 950w Cheap Garbage (free) 
MouseAudio
Logitech G602 Yardsale Special 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 3330 Asus H61 MSI GTX 750Ti Low Profile 2x4GB Hynix DDR3-1333 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
60GB Kingston SSD 1TB Seagate Samsung DVDRW CoolerMaster Gemin II 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8.1 + Steam Big Picture / Plex HT 50" Insignia LED 1080p Logitech Rosewill Green 530w 
CaseMouseAudioOther
Silverstone HTPC Logitech Pioneer 2.0 tower speakers + 135w RMS Rosewill MCE Remote 
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