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How do I make my video look like this? - Page 2

post #11 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aksthem1 View Post

Any camera with full manual controls, including manual focus, will achieve similar results.
So you don't need an expensive camera to do it.
The video are just multiple pictures creating a time lapse.
Now to make one image, just shoot at the lowest aperture/F stop. It's better to use a wide focal length for the camera. The focus to infinity, shutter from 1s to whatever you may deem necessary (tripod is a must). As for the ISO, some people say to shoot it at the highest possible, but me personally, I try to consider the exposure triangle.
If the shutter speed is too long you will start creating a star trailing effect. Depending on how you want the image to come out then it may or may not be desired.

Awesome, thank you for the tips Aks. smile.gif
Any recommendation for models?
post #12 of 22
depends on your budget, but rebel t2i from Canon Loyalty Program is a really good start. realistically it does not really matter which dslr/EVIL you get since they all will be able to do this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by swindle View Post

I can only assume that was shot with a higher end DSLR.
Something maybe 60D or 5D or 7D or 1D or something.
http://store.kodak.com/store/ekconsus/en_US/pd/Zi8_Pocket_Video_Camera/productID.156585800
lol? That is good for 5 mins of poor video of a friend being an idiot or some concert. You can not achieve the results you seek with that device. And you can't change the lens, soooo not sure why you mentioned that?

any dslr can do that kind of timelapse. all you technically need is a voltameter and manual controls.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thebreezybb View Post

You simply need a DSLR and ultra wide angle lens. And if you don't know what you're doing, it would take you a good amount of time to accomplish that.

depends on what you are doing, a mild telephoto will work (i think the video was a 35-50mm on FF). the most important thing is to have a fast lens.
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post #13 of 22
what is your budget because honestly going into DSLR land with video can get expensive. if you plan on doing strictly video a camercorder will suit you much better and still offer complete control over your exposure. but saying that. a really nice video camera will seem expensive but will come out to about the same as the DSLR with all accessories and possibly less depending on what you buy. if you want to keep it easy with a DSLR in video you will need: camera, lenses, assorted microphones based on your needs, a preamp or mixer like a juicedlink for example a better tripod isnt a bad investment if you get into longer teles where you mount the tele on the tripod because it weighs more than the camera does in a lot of cases.

if you buy a dedicated prosumer video camera. you will get a somewhat fast lens on most nice ones, the iris will obviously be widest when zoomed out the furthest. it will have an XLR input which eliminates the need for the preamp for most microphones. and it will be lighter and much easier for run and gun shooting if you need the ability.

one example video camera that is good http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/768930-REG/Panasonic_AG_AC130_AG_AC130_AVCCAM_HD_Handheld.html

only huge difference will be that some choices for a video camera will have a smaller sensor that the DSLRs which means deeper depth of field and and possibly less low light performance. not all cameras are exactly the same. but yea a DSLR will give a nice cinema look with the right gear and post production workflow and editing. DSLR footage is not as easy to work with all the time as its generally suggested to convert the footage to a prores format to get the most out of your footage which is an extra step. but basically you cant always just drop raw DSLR footage into your edit software and expect it to come out perfect when you export it to a media file.

a better edit software is also helpful. for the cheap you can go sony vegas or for more you can get premier or final cut if your running mac.
Edited by Conspiracy - 2/16/12 at 8:56pm
post #14 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by swindle View Post

That is not changing the lens...
Anyway, you'd need a DSLR to do it tbh.

You do not need a DSLR to do this.

What you do need is:

A camera with manual controls. (Some point and shoots have this)
Capable of long exposure times (~30s MAX) (Some point and shoots have this)
Camera has intervolometer feature or time lapse feature. (Some point and shoots have this)
Location with minimal light pollution.
Timelapse Video software (there are some free ones out there)
Read up on time lapse photography.

http://content.photojojo.com/tutorials/ultimate-guide-to-time-lapse-photography/
    
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post #15 of 22
if your specifically trying to only do timelapse videos then you can disregard my post as you want an actually camera to take the pictures rather than a dedicated video camera. you can take still with a video camera but a P&S will take higher resolution images for a timelapse. what pn0yb0i posted is right on the money with what you need to get by with that effect
post #16 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by pn0yb0i View Post

You do not need a DSLR to do this.
What you do need is:
A camera with manual controls. (Some point and shoots have this)
Capable of long exposure times (~30s MAX) (Some point and shoots have this)
Camera has intervolometer feature or time lapse feature. (Some point and shoots have this)
Location with minimal light pollution.
Timelapse Video software (there are some free ones out there)
Read up on time lapse photography.
http://content.photojojo.com/tutorials/ultimate-guide-to-time-lapse-photography/

you do not need a DSLR for a timelapse, you do need a DSLR (or at least an EVIL) cause you need to shoot at 800+ iso with a 2.8 lens with CLEAN images.
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post #17 of 22
I shoot my timelapse with either a Canon 60D, 7D or 5D MKII. I use either an official Canon Intervalometer (expensive) or a cheaper third party one. Either will work equally well. I use Stellarium software to work out what constellations will be where in the sky and what time. Its really excellent software although there are IOS apps that will also do the job. Its then just a case of either making sure you have plenty of batteries or a power outlet to plug into. I shoot ISO of around 1200 max (more with the 5D) and vary the shutter time depending on what I am hoping for. for stars 60seconds is about the max before you see star trails although you need a really wide lense like a Tokina 11-16mm. Below is some of my timelapse stuff with some very quick clips of the Milky Way I shot on my Honeymoon (I have an understanding wide biggrin.gif ). I have loads more but I haven't got round to editing them yet.

Timelapse Reel from @motion productions on Vimeo.

post #18 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mz-n10 View Post

depends on your budget, but rebel t2i from Canon Loyalty Program is a really good start. realistically it does not really matter which dslr/EVIL you get since they all will be able to do this.
any dslr can do that kind of timelapse. all you technically need is a voltameter and manual controls.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Conspiracy View Post

what is your budget because honestly going into DSLR land with video can get expensive.

Would it be possible to rent the necessary camera instead of buying it outright? I'm getting the vibe that the 7D seems to be a safe bet?
I really only need it for this one shoot and that's it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillskill View Post

I shoot my timelapse with either a Canon 60D, 7D or 5D MKII. I use either an official Canon Intervalometer (expensive) or a cheaper third party one. Either will work equally well. I use Stellarium software to work out what constellations will be where in the sky and what time. Its really excellent software although there are IOS apps that will also do the job. Its then just a case of either making sure you have plenty of batteries or a power outlet to plug into. I shoot ISO of around 1200 max (more with the 5D) and vary the shutter time depending on what I am hoping for. for stars 60seconds is about the max before you see star trails although you need a really wide lense like a Tokina 11-16mm. Below is some of my timelapse stuff with some very quick clips of the Milky Way I shot on my Honeymoon (I have an understanding wide biggrin.gif ). I have loads more but I haven't got round to editing them yet.

That's wonderful footage Hill, what does your editing process entail?

Oh, and thank you to all who helped so far. +rep. smile.gif
post #19 of 22
If you have a local camera shop you can rent it along with different lenses. Lensrentals.com is a good place online too.

You don't need to use a higher end body. Though a full frame camera, like a Canon 5D or 5DMKII, will have a better dynamic range and better high ISO handling. Less noise.

Here is a good video to get the idea.
    
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post #20 of 22
Personally I do all of my post production work on a mac. I import all of my images from my camera and open Quicktime 7. File > Open Image Sequence and then select the first image of the timelapse. This will eventually open a huge 5k clip. Do not attempt to play this, it won't end well. Instead I simply go File > Export and send out an Apple Pro Res Quicktime LT in 1920x1080. I can then drag the clip into Final Cut and edit into my sequence along with my regular video files. Here is another I did for an events company:



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