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post #11 of 65
Tap water contains lots of ions, minerals, metal salts, debris etc. These will become deposited in the loop reducing performance and generally being ****. Distillation boils the water and condenses the steam to form pure water (as the ions, metal salts etc cant evaporate). Distilled water is the best, bottled coolants are inconsistant, I wanted colour in my loop more than the worry of staining and deposits etc. I used primochill pure PC red at first, it was utter ****. Looked rubbish and left deposits everywhere in a matter of days. Switched to EK Blood Red after cleaning it (based on good reviews) and have had no problems with staining or deposits since. Its a bit of a lottery I guess. But unless you wanna scour reviews for hours go with the distilled water route. As for rads, my rule of thumbs is generally a thick 240 for the CPU and a thick 120 per GPU, assuming the GPUs are at standard clocks. A 480 or 2x240s should be enough if you're buying RX thickness for cpu and 2 way crossfire/sli.

Just my 2 cents
 
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post #12 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xaphan187 View Post

not sure about boiling it, I stray away from coolants since they tend to gunk up the loop faster. Ill factor in all the fittings when I get home currently at work Lol. And ill search the site your using for the other stuff in a bit.
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Yep, thanks for giving me hand on the fittings smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiHyMo View Post

Please dont use tap water, or dyes or coolant-in-a-bottle. The dye will come out of solution and deposit in your loop.
There is a big difference between boiling (which doesn't actually kill minerals) and evaporating and recondensing (distilling) to completely remove all impurities.
As Xaphen187 says, distilled water is readilly available, try your nearest petrol station they often have it.
Distilled water, a silver kill coil to prevent algae growing, and you'll be fine.
PT nuke is a biocide, a copper sulphate solution. If you can find some add a drop or 2.
Your parts list has no aluminium in contact with the water so galvanic corrosion shouldn't be a problem, negating the need for a corrosion inhibitor.
Hmmm, i might have a look at the supermarkets to see if they sell it. I highly doubt i would be able to find PT Nuke, is there a alternative? I have the sliver kill coil in my list and how would go about to using it properly?
Quote:
Originally Posted by YowZ View Post

Tap water contains lots of ions, minerals, metal salts, debris etc. These will become deposited in the loop reducing performance and generally being ****. Distillation boils the water and condenses the steam to form pure water (as the ions, metal salts etc cant evaporate). Distilled water is the best, bottled coolants are inconsistant, I wanted colour in my loop more than the worry of staining and deposits etc. I used primochill pure PC red at first, it was utter ****. Looked rubbish and left deposits everywhere in a matter of days. Switched to EK Blood Red after cleaning it (based on good reviews) and have had no problems with staining or deposits since. Its a bit of a lottery I guess. But unless you wanna scour reviews for hours go with the distilled water route. As for rads, my rule of thumbs is generally a thick 240 for the CPU and a thick 120 per GPU, assuming the GPUs are at standard clocks. A 480 or 2x240s should be enough if you're buying RX thickness for cpu and 2 way crossfire/sli.
Just my 2 cents
Thanks for the tip, also it is my case that is limiting more then 1 radiator.
Edited by killerx525 - 2/23/12 at 5:28am
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post #13 of 65
Alright so I threw some stuff together this is with the exception of the gpu blocks. You'll need 2x 45* angle compressions,6 regular compressions, id grab 2 male quick disconnects and a female qdc for a drain at the lowest point in the loop.I did factor in fittings for 2 rads but those universal blocks I have not the slightest idea on how to connect them in a series. Personally id get a pumptop and throw in 2 more fittings. Bad thing is that site is pretty limited frown.gif any other sites from were your at that you could use?

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post #14 of 65
Thread Starter 
Why do i need a 45* angle compression and where will that go? Can you please link me the actual parts from the site that is needed? I don't know which one to get. 2 rads will not work since my case can only hold 1 rad. Also i was watching some videos on youtube and most used 1 rad for their graphics card and cpu like Linustech from NCIX.

Other watercooling stores:
http://www.gammods.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1
http://www.thekoolroom.com/category/water-kool/
http://www.radiical.com.au/
Edited by killerx525 - 2/23/12 at 12:51pm
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post #15 of 65
Kill coil should be all that you need. Just toss it in the reservoir. As for fittings, check out the water cooling gallery on OCN and look for people with your same case. There will be some good ideas on how to plan your loop. You want angled fittings in the event your tube has to make a tight bend. You dont always need them, but I find its nice to have 1 or 2 on hand. As for distilled water, I would be surprised if your grocery store doesn't sell it. It usually a buck (USD) for a gallon. Don't use tap water or coolant garbage. If you want your tubes to be a different color, buy colored tubing.
post #16 of 65
I would just get a RX360 kit imo

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_45&products_id=16617
^i know its sold out but i would wait.....

And as everyone has stated Distilled + silver kill coil is your best bet

As for the kit all you have to do is just get new hoses and if you want a color just get a uv reactive hose.
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post #17 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KuuFA View Post

I would just get a RX360 kit imo
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_45&products_id=16617
^i know its sold out but i would wait.....
And as everyone has stated Distilled + silver kill coil is your best bet
As for the kit all you have to do is just get new hoses and if you want a color just get a uv reactive hose.
Now that is areally nice kit but the rad won't fit in my case frown.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by yanks8981 View Post

Kill coil should be all that you need. Just toss it in the reservoir. As for fittings, check out the water cooling gallery on OCN and look for people with your same case. There will be some good ideas on how to plan your loop. You want angled fittings in the event your tube has to make a tight bend. You dont always need them, but I find its nice to have 1 or 2 on hand. As for distilled water, I would be surprised if your grocery store doesn't sell it. It usually a buck (USD) for a gallon. Don't use tap water or coolant garbage. If you want your tubes to be a different color, buy colored tubing.

I will check out the gallery ASAP. Hmm, can you please show me some examples of the angle fittings in use?
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post #18 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by killerx525 View Post

Radiator: Koolance Copper Core CU720V High Flow 2x120mm - I think the HAF 932 supports up 2x 120mm radiator.

Just a quick note, the HAF 932 supports up to 3x120mm radiators. You could also fit the RX series and still have enough clearance.
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post #19 of 65
Thread Starter 
I had a look at the mounting holes and it seems to support 2 120 rads. I just checked the coolermaster site and some coolermaster forums and i definitly use 3 rads biggrin.gif Thanks for the assurance Pencuri! The problem with kit, is the port hoel where you refill it. The case has the port hole on the opposite side which is why i chose the reservoir on my list.
Edited by killerx525 - 2/23/12 at 1:07pm
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post #20 of 65
The Rasa kits from XSPC are very solid, noob friendly, and pretty decent performing kit (reasons why i bought it... Well i have the RX240) and If you want one radiator that can support a cpu and gpu the RX360 would be more than sufficient. (I have a 2600k @ 4.5 with a gtx 580 on the same loop (RX240 kit) and they stay under 68c)

I would take a look at the different Rasa kits the main differences are the letters infront of the numbers

XX(120,240,360) = Size of radiator.

RSXXX = thinner rad, needs faster fan speeds, Cheaper
RXXXX = Double thick rad (From RSXXX), Slower speed fans, A tad bit more expensive

So to put it in perspective to the kit i linked you earlier.

RX360 = Double thick rad in a 3x120 config, Performs very well with low speed fans, Kinda pricey.

Hope this makes sense....
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