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Upgrading a mineral oil cooled PC

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I'm not sure if anyone gives a flying fudge about [mineral] oil cooling but I've been reading into it for a year or two now and I think I've finaly found a solution to the one big hang-up I had with oil cooling; upgrading.

I found these dust covers over on Amazon.com [ link ] that pretty much solve that problem. Considering that to use an oil system you have to seal every socket you intend to use. Once they get contaminated they are useless because cleaning oil off delicate components is all but impossible. With these covers one could seal them to the motherboard and pry them off at a later date making it possible to add components down the road without digging silicone out of the sockets themselves.

I thought I'd share this information with the community in case anyone else had similar issues with oil cooled builds; I hope it opens up some options for fellow modders. Now all I need to do is get some test components and a vat of mineral oil to make a test build and I'll be good to go. I'm thinking my first build will be in a Home Depot bucket =P

Happy modding

Ryo
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post #2 of 10
I don't get what you are trying to say here. In submerged oil cooling there is no need to protect the unused ram or PCI slots. Oil will not damage a mother board and its even possible to clean the oil off afterwards.

proof.gif -->http://www.overclock.net/t/1086749/worklog-the-rebirth-of-mr-bubbles

Also thous are dust covers and would not be able to keep out the oil form the expansion slots anyway.
    
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post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
well in regards to the link you posted, I would never put my components under running water. most of my rational is the time honored 5 year old's response of "just because". If i needed to clean my components I would use a vat of rubbing alcohol as its less likely to corrode. similar to soap and water it draws the oil away from the surfaces without prolonged drying times. Considering his situation towards upgrading that tank and adding new components he also had to take the time to clean and prepare each component before it went into a new tank. his computer was down for more than a week while everything dried out.

with caps and the fore though during building you could attach a cap to the sockets and at a later date simply remove them. allowing the board 20-30 minuets to drip excess oil away from the sockets before prying the caps then installing the new hardware and sealing it. with the curing time of the silicon as the major factor in the down time a mineral oil computer would be down for 24 hours instead of a week + and you save yourself the labor intensive cleaning process. unless you are servicing your computer in a dust storm, simply for an upgrade you shouldn't have to scrub down your motherboard, that's what filters are for.
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post #4 of 10
You can wash anything with soap and hot running water, you just can't use it until the component is completely dry.

There's a guy on youtube that washed a UD9 without any problems.
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post #5 of 10
It will not hurt you Motherboard at all. Doing this is just more problems on top each other. You can upgrade even if the motherboard is submerged.
post #6 of 10
Oil doesn't work because it'll hit room temperature really fast. Then it's just stuck in a cube of 75F temperature with no air circulation.
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post #7 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by redsunx View Post

Oil doesn't work because it'll hit room temperature really fast. Then it's just stuck in a cube of 75F temperature with no air circulation.

If the cube was perpetually at 75F you would have the greatest heat exchanger ever, or the worst. Unfortunately oil submersion is neither of those. All you are doing with oil submersion is replacing air with oil, so as long as you have a method of circulating the oil and removing the heat it will work better than air due to its higher heat capacity (specific heat for you engineers.) Both of those are easily accomplished by submerging a fan and using an external radiator.

To answer the original post though, as people have already said, you are able to wash your board as long as you let it dry long enough before using it again. Also, if you are digging silicon out of your motherboard after oil submersion, you have bigger problems than the oil...ie, where did you get the silicon...
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post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
silicon in regards to the build strategy I subscribe to is used to keep the mineral oil away from the thermal grease/pads and mechanical/pressure contacts. Oil likes to dissolve grease and get between lose contacts so silicon around sockets prevents these surfaces from becoming contaminated by preserving a small air pocket that is largely irrelevant to system cooling. I could rely on other thermal media such as tape but I'd also have to go out of my way to get it. I can buy Arctic Silver at Frys Electronics but for Tape I'd have to hit frozencpu.com or Amazon. granted I'd still have to order these caps from the net but they would be passive. I'd rather work with grease because i'm more comfortable with them than tape for my own reasons.
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post #9 of 10
1) my submerged rig has been running for over 2 years now. I've never "capped" anything and it still runs as good as the day I put it together.

2) soap and water is fine. I even threw my mobo and video card in the dishwasher one time early in the build and those two pieces are still working. Just make sure you don't run the washer in hot cycle mode or you risk melting stuff.

3) I've never bothered with thermal tape or grease protection. I used arctic silver ceramique at the start and have never thought about it since.

Yes I do have and external radiator that cools off the oil. It's an i7 920 that is very stable at 4ghz.
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post #10 of 10
@gahz1 i'm wondering if you cool the oil with a phase change machine ( you put the evaporator in the tank)no condens . I will work ?
I look up and the temperature of freeze is -30 C..
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