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Building a subwoofer.

post #1 of 22
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So... i already got the 7.1 system. But i want more base... Alot more..

Is it possible for me to use 2 car subs in addition to the one i already have? (OFC the car subs are gonna be more powerful)

Also any recommendation on making the box for it? Gonna probably have it 1 on each side and the one that came with my Logitech system in the middle just for the sake of it.
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post #2 of 22
what would you be using for the amp for the car subs?
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post #3 of 22
Car subs are tricky to implement in larger listening venues. They are normally designed with small, sealed boxes and the room gain from the vehicle and EQ to help flatted out the response. This is achieved by making strong motor structures coupled to very heavy and very rigid pistons and having a ton of thermal power handling. The problem is that the high moving mass and ultra stiff piston design results in low Vas and low Fs... The combination can be a good and bad thing. The main problem is that it makes designing any sort of reflex enclosure very difficult as the box must remain small but achieving very low tuning on a very small box for a driver with lots of Vd requires enormous port cross section and length... All fine and dandy until you realize that what you are really making is transmission line. Unfortunately, the software used to model and simulated a vented enclosure is not likely to be very accurate as the box designs encroach on quarter wave theory. You can opt to just build sealed boxes and EQ them flat... Personally I'm not a fan of this approach as it leaves a lot of untapped capability on the table.


Let me know what drivers you had in mind and I'll try to give you some pointers on possible box designs. Some car subs can work nicely in a tapped horn design. Well designed tapped horns can have anywhere from 3-6dB or better maximum output compared to reflex enclosures, and often 10-20dB+ better maximum output than a sealed design.

IMO you should use a 2 channel pro amp with built in crossover for the sub amp, that way you can run the subs as a stereo pair and implement a nice active x-over from the sub to your mains. Crown XLS series comes to mind as they are are rugged, reliable, have the x-over capability, and are rated stable down to 2 Ohm per channel.


Eric
Edited by mdocod - 2/24/12 at 10:30pm
     
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post #4 of 22
I'm not an expert on sub designs by a long shot but I have listened to many models and been apart of building a couple and in my opinion fully closed boxes produce the best sound. They are need to be slightly bigger then reflex boxes and reduce the volume but IMO its worth it. There is also more margin for error when designing as there is no risk of getting thous nasty blowing sounds from the reflex went. Oh and don's skimp on the inner dampening material when building the enclosure as it helps block nasty resonates and smooths out the response curve.
    
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post #5 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bit_reaper View Post

I'm not an expert on sub designs by a long shot but I have listened to many models and been apart of building a couple and in my opinion fully closed boxes produce the best sound. They are need to be slightly bigger then reflex boxes and reduce the volume but IMO its worth it. There is also more margin for error when designing as there is no risk of getting thous nasty blowing sounds from the reflex went. Oh and don's skimp on the inner dampening material when building the enclosure as it helps block nasty resonates and smooths out the response curve.

A good designed ported box will give you better lows, and be musical and punchy. Sealed needs way more power to achieve this, and more placement problems incur.
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post #6 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdocod View Post

Car subs are tricky to implement in larger listening venues. They are normally designed with small, sealed boxes and the room gain from the vehicle and EQ to help flatted out the response. This is achieved by making strong motor structures coupled to very heavy and very rigid pistons and having a ton of thermal power handling. The problem is that the high moving mass and ultra stiff piston design results in low Vas and low Fs... The combination can be a good and bad thing. The main problem is that it makes designing any sort of reflex enclosure very difficult as the box must remain small but achieving very low tuning on a very small box for a driver with lots of Vd requires enormous port cross section and length... All fine and dandy until you realize that what you are really making is transmission line. Unfortunately, the software used to model and simulated a vented enclosure is not likely to be very accurate as the box designs encroach on quarter wave theory. You can opt to just build sealed boxes and EQ them flat... Personally I'm not a fan of this approach as it leaves a lot of untapped capability on the table.
Let me know what drivers you had in mind and I'll try to give you some pointers on possible box designs. Some car subs can work nicely in a tapped horn design. Well designed tapped horns can have anywhere from 3-6dB or better maximum output compared to reflex enclosures, and often 10-20dB+ better maximum output than a sealed design.
IMO you should use a 2 channel pro amp with built in crossover for the sub amp, that way you can run the subs as a stereo pair and implement a nice active x-over from the sub to your mains. Crown XLS series comes to mind as they are are rugged, reliable, have the x-over capability, and are rated stable down to 2 Ohm per channel.
Eric

This.

I've also been considering the same thing op. And have decided to go with a folded horn enclosure.

I intend to use JL 13" W6V2 with a slash 500/1v2 and a tx750w to power it.
Edited by jesusboots - 2/24/12 at 10:39pm
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post #7 of 22
Thread Starter 
Actually no plan yet. No plan on what driver, what amp, and how to make the box for it.
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post #8 of 22
You would be better off just buying a sub for home use instead.
Whats you current system is setup with?

Do you want more bass in music or movies.
    
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post #9 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

You would be better off just buying a sub for home use instead.
Whats you current system is setup with?
Do you want more bass in music or movies.

Not quite sure where to find any home subs in my country.. :|

I generally want more bass in music.. I want more.. PUNCH in the chest kind of thing.
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post #10 of 22
Electronics store that sells home theater equipment.
Maybe you can find used ones in the newspaper or online like craigslist or know someone local that selling them.
    
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 3770k @ 4.2Ghz Asus Z77 Sabertooth EVGA GTX1060 3GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB BLT2K8G3D1608ET... 
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Crucial MX100 512GB Corsair Force 115GB WD Green 1TB WD Green 2TB 
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Cryorig C1 + XT140 Win7 64 Home SP1 ASUS VE278Q CM Storm Trigger Brown Switch 
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Corsair AX650 NZXT S340 Logitech G500 Razer Goliathus Extended Mouse Pad - Speed 
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Audiotrak Prodigy Cube DAC Edifier S330D 2.1 Speaker Bose AE2 Headphone Superlux 668B Headphone 
AudioAudioOtherOther
Logitech UE 4000 Headphone Sennheiser PC320 Headset MX-4 Thermal Paste (CPU/GPU) 3x 140mm Noctua NF-P14s Redux 1200rpm PWM 
OtherOther
1x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200rpm PWM NZXT 2m Sleeved White LED 
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