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WC Peltier Setup

post #1 of 33
Thread Starter 
I am looking into building a water cooled peltier setup that will cool my CPU and GPU. I am planning on buying a 50*50mm 245W peltier (frozencpu.com) I think that I will leave the peltier as part of the water loop, rather than connecting it to a component. My planned setup is this: Reservoir>Pump>Cold side peltier>CPU>GPU>Hot side peltier>Radiator>Reservoir>Pump...
My questions are:
  1. Would this be a good way to setup the cooling system?
  2. I have an extra 500W power supply I can use for the peltier, how can I connect it without taking it apart?
  3. What is the best way to insulate my motherboard?
Thanks in advance,
-JD
PS:I will be attaching a high end GPU block to each side of the peltier with thermal epoxy. And can anyone recommend a good full tower case for WC, preferably one which has a window on the side and somewhere i can install a large radiator(ill cut holes if necessary)
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post #2 of 33
If I understand you correctly you are basically running a single loop system with coolant running through the cold side block directly prior to hitting the CPU/GPU, then cooling the hot plate and dissipating the heat through a radiator?

I doubt that your CPU/GPU would benefit from the temperature drops achieved by the coolant running through the cold side block as the overall temperature of your coolant will be raised significantly from the heat output of the peltier. Maybe someone could give more accurate input on this?

The Vmax on the peltier you mentioned is 15.2V and the Imax is 24A; as such you could probably run it fairly efficiently off the 12V rail on the PSU as this would constitute about 79% of it's maximum rated voltage. It is not recommended running a peltier at it's Vmax as usually it is much more inefficient then running it at 1/2-2/3 of it's max rated power. I don't know if the voltage vs current is linear when undervolting but if it is you would want a power supply that can output atleast 19A on the 12V rail. I would also ask frozencpu to see if they could supply you with a graph that details what current this peltier draws at a given voltage. In short you could probably cut the molex connector and either solder the wires together or get a euroblock of some sort and use that. I personally would not recommend sticking the wires into the molex connector or using the twist and tape approach as you'll be pulling some serious power through these cables.

As far as insulating the mobo goes I personally prefered using Dow Corning Conformal Coating around the socket and on the back of the mobo as it leaves a nice clear finish and is fairly easy to work with, dielectric greese for your socket and some neoprene to keep any air from getting to your cold plate / cpu and creating condensation. Do a search online and read up a bit on the condensation proofing guides out there to get an idea of how to do this properly; I'm way to lazy to write a step by step guide here.

Working with peltiers takes a bit of patience and research (you learn this after your first mobo stops booting up...grrrr) but once you take your time with it the results are well worth the time spent.

Good luck!
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post #3 of 33
Thread Starter 
thanks for the help, I was thinking that i would send the water to a dual 120mm rad before hitting the hot side of the pelt, then a triple 120 somewhere between the hot and cold sides of the pelt. Would this cool my water sufficiently?
Also, I will run the pelt on the Ultra V-Seriew 500W power supply, do I need to mod it, or will it work off of a molex connector (I dont mind if it is slightly undervolted), would I have to do the mod about building a psu? Im not sure if I would be able to pull this off, as I dont know much about soldering wires etc. I am doing this for a school project and will be using virtually all my savings on it, so if something gets fried, then ill be screwed.
-Thanks
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post #4 of 33
You will probably want to buy a premade gpu peltier block

The two options would be the dangerden maze-4 gpu or the swiftech mcw60-t.

The mcw60-t has a much better way of sealing a neoprene gasket against your card and comes with a 188w pelt(coldest 40mm pelt available), but you must insulate the card very well with either di-electric grease or by spraying the card with conformal coating.

I did not use enough grease when I first used this waterblock, and the waterblock condensated in between the core area and the coldplate, caused massive artifacts and I had to take it all apart, clean and dry the card and try again.

I have had alot of great results with this block though. The only downside is they cost around $125 apeice.

I run mine on a 300w 15v mean well psu

Edit :Ohhhhh you want to use a pelt to cool one loop with another...

That might drop temps a couple degrees, Not worth the second loop for sure though
    
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post #5 of 33
Thread Starter 
does anyone know if the 700W thermaltake tough power would be able to handle a 245W pelt and the rest of my liquid cooling system (pump+fans)?
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post #6 of 33
That PSU will do the job no worries. Alternately you may wish to look into doing something along the lines of this idea.
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post #7 of 33
Thread Starter 
thanks, i have looked around and think i will go with this Swiftech Aux power supply. I have looked into insulating my cpu and was wondering how to insulate a P4 LGA 775 CPU, as there are no pins into which i can put dielectric grease. Can anyone give me a good detailed explanation on how to do this (or a link to one)?
-Thanks in advance
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post #8 of 33
Ive thought of doing something similar, just cooling the hot side of the tec with a BT, not the same loop used to cool everything. Tec's are very ineficient, they produce more heat than they cool, so if you did what you planned, you would probably get higher water temps than if you would use no tec at all.
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post #9 of 33
Thread Starter 
i am planning on installing a double and a triple radiator to dissipate the heat and i think that i will install the pelt directly onto the cpu.
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post #10 of 33
Thread Starter 
sorry for the double post, but does anyone know how to insulate an LGA775 cpu from condensation (it has no pins, so there must be a different technique)?
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