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Switch Prime

22K views 175 replies 38 participants last post by  PuffinMyLye 
#1 ·
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Title is courtesy of gr3nad3l. Nice work.
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Tried to modify my coolermaster haf 932 advanced to fit a 240 rad in the bottom and trashed it. So I ordered a case that requires very little modding and revamped my build.

Before
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I really liked the way the front of the HAF looked.
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Now, enter the switch
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The box had quite a bit of damage on it, so I was a little worried...
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But it was okay
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Now, there are a lot of people that want to see this part.... 448 classy going into surgery......
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This is an update to the OP. Left out where to put the TIM paste.
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My new ex 360 which performs really well...

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Got a really good deal on some coolermaster sickle flows from newegg for a push pull set up.....
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Back to the switch
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It has wheels..
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My 2500k mounted in my Asus P8Z68-v/Gen3.
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Here is the ex 360 which will be directly in front of the CPU in the loop.
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XSPC Rasa waterblock for the 2500k
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The RS 240 rad for my loop.
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Playing while leak testing.
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Had a mounting accident with one of my fans.
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Worked out okay...
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Thank god there is a ton of room in the back for cable management......
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Not happy with this window. Has a film, or something, that tints the window blue when using uv inside.
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Not really happy with the front of the case. Kind of ungly and it shows prints easily. Still, small potatoes to everything else that is awesome.
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Took 2 days to get this thing assembled and running. Temps are awesome, both from the addition of the ex360 rad, loop redesign, and the awesome air movement of this case. Turned out well.

GPU went from ~70 max with really loud fans to 45 max with no additional fan noise.
before wc
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after wc
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Also, CPU dropped 5 degress idle from ~ 30 to ~ 25. At max went from ~ 62 down to ~ 50. Really good with the CPU at 4.5 with 1.418 vcore.

Really happy with this build. Let me know if you have questions......
 
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#3 ·
Looking good! Use a microfiber to wipe the case off and the prints will go away, I have the same issue with mine.
 
#4 ·
NIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIICE!
 
#12 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flikka View Post

I mean, what is the ID (inner diameter) and OD (outer diameter) of the tubing, or am I not understanding you correctly?
Sorry, thought you were talking about the red LED in the top.

The tubing is 7/16 id and 1/2in od I believe. It is the same size of hose that comes with the XSPC Rasa RS240 kit.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12802/ex-tub-834/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716_ID_58_OD_with_332_Wall_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_UV_Red_PFLEXP10-758-R.html?tl=g30c99s809
 
#15 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by selluminis View Post

Actually, it is 1.418. I cannot it lower. Not sure what the deal is. If you have any suggestions let me know.
I saw in CPU-Z. You had it typed as 1.0418, so I was startled.

That voltage is solid for the clock
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#22 ·
As far as you know, are you the only one who has experienced that haze on the window issue? I haven't gotten to the point where my tubing and UV lights are in yet, and the last thing I wanna see after all my work is that
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#23 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by selluminis View Post

I am waiting on a replacement window and thinking about trying to put in a fill port. IF I can figure out how to get the top plastic off with out breaking it....
I said this in the official thread as well. Remove the front panel, then pry the top off starting at the rear. It shouldn't be too difficult.
 
#25 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCModderMike View Post

As far as you know, are you the only one who has experienced that haze on the window issue? I haven't gotten to the point where my tubing and UV lights are in yet, and the last thing I wanna see after all my work is that
blinksmiley.gif
Yeah, was not happy with it at all. But, Retell took care of it quick. Panel should be here tomorrow.
 
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