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Just got a D14 in, not super-happy with the finish on the contact surface. - Page 2  

post #11 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwoodz View Post

Copper will not oxidize with no oxygen.Unless you plan on installing an air pocket too it would be fine.Nickel will reduce the thermal conduction over copper though.
Generally,the shinier the metal the smoother it is.

Unless the HSF is in a vacuum chamber, there's always oxygen available to the surfaces even some via TIM.
post #12 of 39
Take a razor or something perfectly straight and see if the base is flat everywhere. That is the most important; to have contact at all points on the CPU, not the shininess.
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post #13 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by psyclum View Post

just remember the 1st rule of computing. if it ain't broke, don't fix it biggrin.gif

What about the first rule of OCN: If it ain't broke it isn't going fast enough.

OP, why not try it first to see what the performance is like first, then if you don't like it you can consider taking more drastic steps.
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post #14 of 39
Don't do it at all.

The base is machined in such a way that it mates with the concave of the CPU's IHS, if you make the cooler flat then be prepared to do the CPU also.

The machining finish has a purpose to, the groves in the base is to help evenly spread the TIM when the cooler is bolted down...
post #15 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by psyclum View Post

actually... the shinier the metal...... the more polishing compound you used while polishing it biggrin.gif which begs the question.... how well do polishing compound perform as TIM ? biggrin.gif
just remember the 1st rule of computing. if it ain't broke, don't fix it biggrin.gif

Not necessarily true,you can get a shiny surface without polish.Even if you use polish,you can remove the residue.Don't know where this myth got started but it's just not accurate.
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post #16 of 39
Afaik there has never been a clear connection between cooler performance and shinyness of the baseplate. Over the years, the very best coolers have been a wild mix with any kind of finish, ranging from mirror shine to coarse metal, sometimes even with gaps between heatpipes directly touching the cpu.

A mirror finish on the cooler would only be useful if the CPU itself was perfectly flat, had a mirror finish and the cooler was mounted without thermal compound. Even then it would be doubtful if this would provide any kind of advantage compared to normal TIM mounting.
post #17 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by smash_mouth01 View Post

Don't do it at all.
The base is machined in such a way that it mates with the concave of the CPU's IHS, if you make the cooler flat then be prepared to do the CPU also.
The machining finish has a purpose to, the groves in the base is to help evenly spread the TIM when the cooler is bolted down...

I'm sure there would be too much variance in each IHS, heatsink and mounting orientation for any matching of uneven surfaces, by design. If you can twist/wiggle your heatsink at all then you are not getting a concave/convex mating.
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post #18 of 39
CPU makers do NOT intentionally make the heat spreader convex or concave. They try for perfectly flat. That is also what you want with the heatsink base - contrary to what some HSF makers claim. The convex shape you find on some HSFs is from poor machining more often than not. If you need to bend the heatsink to gain full contact on the CPU heatspreader - the design or machining is all wrong, in spite of what you might be told or have read.

In a perfect world the CPU heat spreader and heatsink base would be perfectly flat and you would not need a super thin film of TIM to achieve 100% contact of the two surfaces. In the real world the thin film - ~.003" or less, will provide the optimum thermal transfer from the CPU heat spreader to the HSF. A thicker layer of TIM hurts thermal transfer and cooling.

Shiny has nothing to do with heat transfer per se other than to get the surface shiny you generally need to smooth the surface. The smoother the surface - not the shinnier, the more contact is possible between two flat surfaces. If you had two perfectly smooth surfaces in theory you would not need any TIM. Since it's impossible to have perfectly smooth surfaces and 100% contact, a super thin layer of TIM improves heat transfer to the HSF by filling the machining marks, scratches and low spots.
Edited by AMD4ME - 3/1/12 at 11:11am
post #19 of 39
Thread Starter 
Haha, well I wasn't sure if this was some sort of "common" mod or not, but you guys have convinced me not to touch the damn thing.

BTW, is the included thermal paste good? I imagine on such a high quality item it is, but do ya'll have any input?
post #20 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGermans750 View Post

Haha, well I wasn't sure if this was some sort of "common" mod or not, but you guys have convinced me not to touch the damn thing.
BTW, is the included thermal paste good? I imagine on such a high quality item it is, but do ya'll have any input?

I tested the noctua paste against AC5 and saw no diff. Many people like certain paste but what is included with the kit will work fine.

FWIW my Noctua is flat but you can see the machine marks in a consistent pattern. Don't worry about it.
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