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post #251 of 1157
Quote:
Originally Posted by mybadomen View Post

Yeah careful though Most around my area wont sell anything less then 4 foot by 8 foot sheets and same goes for the places that sell acrylic locally. I went in to get 3 colors to make a couple small things .They wanted $600.00 plus tax because they will only sell complete sheets.I am still struggling trying to buy small Acrylic sheets also.Only thing i can get really is clear Plexi or Clear Lexan in a reasonable size locally.Makes things very difficult. I still am trying to get a roughly 2 1/2 " wide tube stock of solid aluminum to whip up some feet in a lathe but most feet that are sold are not very tall.
Anyway should be more updates later tonight.
Also you guys Like the way the index is set up now ? or any other suggestions. The reserved spots are for when the build is completed.

I used Plexi when I cut the window for my case. There didn't seem to be a huge difference.
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post #252 of 1157
Quote:
Originally Posted by mybadomen View Post


Also you guys Like the way the index is set up now ? or any other suggestions. The reserved spots are for when the build is completed.

Looks good, but you need to make the last update in bold like the others thumb.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by jackofhearts495 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mybadomen View Post

Yeah careful though Most around my area wont sell anything less then 4 foot by 8 foot sheets and same goes for the places that sell acrylic locally. I went in to get 3 colors to make a couple small things .They wanted $600.00 plus tax because they will only sell complete sheets.I am still struggling trying to buy small Acrylic sheets also.Only thing i can get really is clear Plexi or Clear Lexan in a reasonable size locally.Makes things very difficult.

Would polycarbonate work? I'm not even sure what you'd be using it for.

I used polycarbonate for my side panel window. I found it's a lot better quality than the acrylic I original got.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5prout View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mybadomen View Post

Yeah careful though Most around my area wont sell anything less then 4 foot by 8 foot sheets and same goes for the places that sell acrylic locally. I went in to get 3 colors to make a couple small things .They wanted $600.00 plus tax because they will only sell complete sheets.I am still struggling trying to buy small Acrylic sheets also.Only thing i can get really is clear Plexi or Clear Lexan in a reasonable size locally.Makes things very difficult. I still am trying to get a roughly 2 1/2 " wide tube stock of solid aluminum to whip up some feet in a lathe but most feet that are sold are not very tall.
Anyway should be more updates later tonight.
Also you guys Like the way the index is set up now ? or any other suggestions. The reserved spots are for when the build is completed.

I used Plexi when I cut the window for my case. There didn't seem to be a huge difference.

I'm going to start using acrylic for now on, after reading this Polycarbonate Vs Acrylic
Edited by GoodInk - 3/28/12 at 3:07pm
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post #253 of 1157
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5prout View Post

I used Plexi when I cut the window for my case. There didn't seem to be a huge difference.

Probably not for the application, but there are huge differences in material properties that may make a difference in other applications.

First, a few misconceptions:
Plexiglass is a brand name of acrylic. Lexan is a brand name of polycarbonate. To clarify, it's the same as how Kleenex is a brand name of facial tissue.

Now, a few notable comparisons.
~ Acrylic is clearer than polycarbonate. Both are clearer than glass. Honestly, the difference is so small it doesn't really matter.
~ Acrylic is less flexible than polycarbonate. However...
~ Acrylic is less impact resistant than polycarbonate. It is more likely to break when punched.
~ Acrylic is more scratch resistant than polycarbonate. (Polycarbonate scratches really easily)
~ Acrylic is less forgiving during manufacturing than polycarbonate. Acrylic requires specially modified drill bits to safely drill through. You -can- use standard metal bits, but it's much more likely to chip, craze or crack.
~ Acrylic is less absorbent than polycarbonate. This makes a difference if you live in a humid environment. If you do, let the polycarbonate rest for a while, so it will absorb what water it wants from your environment and swells before you cut it into the perfect fit you need.
~ Acrylic is much easier to buff back to clear if it becomes scratched than polycarbonate. I've never successfully buffed polycarbonate, but it can be done. Very carefully.
~ Acrylic holds screw threads much better than polycarbonate. However...
~ Acrylic is much harder to tap without damage than polycarbonate. The rule of thumb is to not over tighten screws in polycarbonate, and to use through holes, washers, and nuts for polycarbonate less than 1/8" thick. Also, you almost always need to use a hand tap tool in acrylic, but can use a drill in polycarbonate. In both cases, make sure you clear your chip often.

Other things.
~ Acrylic is bent using heat. When bending, the inside of the crease should be the side that was facing away from the heated element, so that the melted acrylic doesn't bunch up in the joint. This will also make it much weaker.
~ Acrylic can be laser cut and engraved.
~ Acrylic can be flame polished.
~ Polycarbonate is bent cold and without impact. Use something like an apron break, or clamp it against a clean edge and push really hard. Don't try to heat it. No really. Don't. Just don't. (It chars and turns black, or discolors really badly. It ruins the aesthetics, structural integrity, and completely ruins the material. It's also incredibly caustic, and generally incredibly unsafe.)
~ Polycarbonate CANNOT be laser cut or laser engraved. All work must be done mechanically (with the use of a cutting tool).
~ Polycarbonate cannot be flame polished. Remember that warning against heat? There are ways of making polycarbonate shiny, however they should be unnecessary if you're careful while manufacturing.
~ Both can be glued, otherwise known as solvent welded, but with different chemicals.
~ Both need to be cleaned with anti static spray every so often, especially right before installation into a computer.

If it matters to you where this knowledge comes from, I've been manufacturing with various forms of sheet plastic for nearly 20 years. Also if anyone cares, I have small amounts of knowledge related to Acetal, PETG, ABS, and Expanded PVC. PETG is a really nice material, because it behaves like polycarbonate, but can be subjected to heat, meaning it can be cut and engraved with a laser.
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post #254 of 1157
I had a quick question if you didn't mind. Can you powdercoat Acetal or will it melt?
     
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post #255 of 1157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caruban View Post

Probably not for the application, but there are huge differences in material properties that may make a difference in other applications.
First, a few misconceptions:
Plexiglass is a brand name of acrylic. Lexan is a brand name of polycarbonate. To clarify, it's the same as how Kleenex is a brand name of facial tissue.
Now, a few notable comparisons.
~ Acrylic is clearer than polycarbonate. Both are clearer than glass. Honestly, the difference is so small it doesn't really matter.
~ Acrylic is less flexible than polycarbonate. However...
~ Acrylic is less impact resistant than polycarbonate. It is more likely to break when punched.
~ Acrylic is more scratch resistant than polycarbonate. (Polycarbonate scratches really easily)
~ Acrylic is less forgiving during manufacturing than polycarbonate. Acrylic requires specially modified drill bits to safely drill through. You -can- use standard metal bits, but it's much more likely to chip, craze or crack.
~ Acrylic is less absorbent than polycarbonate. This makes a difference if you live in a humid environment. If you do, let the polycarbonate rest for a while, so it will absorb what water it wants from your environment and swells before you cut it into the perfect fit you need.
~ Acrylic is much easier to buff back to clear if it becomes scratched than polycarbonate. I've never successfully buffed polycarbonate, but it can be done. Very carefully.
~ Acrylic holds screw threads much better than polycarbonate. However...
~ Acrylic is much harder to tap without damage than polycarbonate. The rule of thumb is to not over tighten screws in polycarbonate, and to use through holes, washers, and nuts for polycarbonate less than 1/8" thick. Also, you almost always need to use a hand tap tool in acrylic, but can use a drill in polycarbonate. In both cases, make sure you clear your chip often.
Other things.
~ Acrylic is bent using heat. When bending, the inside of the crease should be the side that was facing away from the heated element, so that the melted acrylic doesn't bunch up in the joint. This will also make it much weaker.
~ Acrylic can be laser cut and engraved.
~ Acrylic can be flame polished.
~ Polycarbonate is bent cold and without impact. Use something like an apron break, or clamp it against a clean edge and push really hard. Don't try to heat it. No really. Don't. Just don't. (It chars and turns black, or discolors really badly. It ruins the aesthetics, structural integrity, and completely ruins the material. It's also incredibly caustic, and generally incredibly unsafe.)
~ Polycarbonate CANNOT be laser cut or laser engraved. All work must be done mechanically (with the use of a cutting tool).
~ Polycarbonate cannot be flame polished. Remember that warning against heat? There are ways of making polycarbonate shiny, however they should be unnecessary if you're careful while manufacturing.
~ Both can be glued, otherwise known as solvent welded, but with different chemicals.
~ Both need to be cleaned with anti static spray every so often, especially right before installation into a computer.
If it matters to you where this knowledge comes from, I've been manufacturing with various forms of sheet plastic for nearly 20 years. Also if anyone cares, I have small amounts of knowledge related to Acetal, PETG, ABS, and Expanded PVC. PETG is a really nice material, because it behaves like polycarbonate, but can be subjected to heat, meaning it can be cut and engraved with a laser.

Ok, thanks! I am thinking I am going to use acrylic from now on.. lol.
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post #256 of 1157
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJesus View Post

I had a quick question if you didn't mind. Can you powdercoat Acetal or will it melt?

will melt! 100% sure of that!
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post #257 of 1157
Hey Omen, if the Piece is small enough, I have a laser cutter/engraver that can do up to 24"x12" sheets and a few pieces of 24x12x.5 sheets of Clear Acrylic, we might be able to work something out
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post #258 of 1157
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

I'm going to start using acrylic for now on, after reading this Polycarbonate Vs Acrylic

While I'm sure that those facts are credible, keep in mind that Hydrosight is an acrylic company and that there's room for bias.
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post #259 of 1157
Same here man, Iv'e been looking everywhere to buy acrylic in different colors, and they all want me to buy a huge sheet, and online I can't find a place that ships to Canada. But if you are looking for Cut to size acrylic check out Tap Plastics online, they look like they have a ton of selection, but I never used them before because they only ship to US tongue.gif
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post #260 of 1157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caruban View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5prout View Post

I used Plexi when I cut the window for my case. There didn't seem to be a huge difference.

Other things.
~ Acrylic is bent using heat. When bending, the inside of the crease should be the side that was facing away from the heated element, so that the melted acrylic doesn't bunch up in the joint. This will also make it much weaker.
~ Acrylic can be laser cut and engraved.
~ Acrylic can be flame polished.
~ Polycarbonate is bent cold and without impact. Use something like an apron break, or clamp it against a clean edge and push really hard. Don't try to heat it. No really. Don't. Just don't. (It chars and turns black, or discolors really badly. It ruins the aesthetics, structural integrity, and completely ruins the material. It's also incredibly caustic, and generally incredibly unsafe.)
~ Polycarbonate CANNOT be laser cut or laser engraved. All work must be done mechanically (with the use of a cutting tool).
~ Polycarbonate cannot be flame polished. Remember that warning against heat? There are ways of making polycarbonate shiny, however they should be unnecessary if you're careful while manufacturing.
~ Both can be glued, otherwise known as solvent welded, but with different chemicals.
~ Both need to be cleaned with anti static spray every so often, especially right before installation into a computer.

If it matters to you where this knowledge comes from, I've been manufacturing with various forms of sheet plastic for nearly 20 years. Also if anyone cares, I have small amounts of knowledge related to Acetal, PETG, ABS, and Expanded PVC. PETG is a really nice material, because it behaves like polycarbonate, but can be subjected to heat, meaning it can be cut and engraved with a laser.

I did not know that, I have bent it using a heat gun before with no problems. I'm going to look in to PETG, here is hoping the price is right.
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Potentia et Decor
(16 items)
 
 
Project Trooper
(7 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 750 ASUS Maximus III Formula Powercolor LCS 5870  OCZ Reaper 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
WD Black WD Green Asus BR XSPC RX 360 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
XSPC Rasa CPU Block EK-Reservoir/Pump Combo DCP 4.0 Windows 7 64bit LG 27" Flatron W2753V 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Cooler Master 850watt SilentPro Lian Li A70F Logitech G9 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 750 ASUS Maximus III Formula Powercolor LCS 5870  OCZ Reaper 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
WD Black  XSPC Rasa RS240 kit plus RX120 Win 7 64 LG 27" Flatron W2753V 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
G15 CM 850 SilentPro CM Scout Logitech MX 518 
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Reply
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