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Air Cooler

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
I’ve been trying to figure a way to go subzero without prepping the MB, the only viable way to do it would be to lower the temperature of the air around the board so I came up with this idea based on a dice slush pot. YES it’s over the top and not that practical, but I like making things along these lines.

Con-Drawing.jpg

Air tight construction for recirculation. Fans are conceptual, twenty four 120x38s could get a little expensive. Overall size is 4x8 feet +/-, about 19 cubic feet minus the hardware, will add an area to hold some silica gel as a chemical air dryer. Hopefully see air temps below -25c with the mb loop just above. Fans and dice side pump will probably all be supplied with standard house current.

15-Inch oval covered aluminum roaster as the main heat exchanger, acetone and dice. Flow channels either soldered or brazed to the bottom, constructed from .250 x 2.5 inch bar aluminum. Place the roaster in the ice chest, pump 60/40 mix of antifreeze water mix past the roaster then to a condenser coil to act as an air dryer, (coldest component for ice buildup not as restrictive to air flow as a radiator), through some heater cores, then a Koolance heat exchanger for the computer side cooling loop. 70/30 mix alcohol/water to reduce viscosity, computer side.

Hard drives and power supply well be mounted outside with something like a Frontx 5.25 bay adaptor for the video, ps2 sata and usb connections. Still working on how to install connections for mb and video card volt mod adjustments and probes.

At this point concerns, questions and thoughts.

1: Going to take a lot of dice, but should level out once to temp, everything will be insulated.

2: The roaster isn’t large enough

3: Roaster is to large, can be controlled by the amount of dice.

4: Flow channels, size to small freezing up, to large not enough transfer.

5: How much water is present in 19 cubic feet of air at 20% humidity, will it overly restrict air flow through the condenser coil and heater cores once frozen?

6: Pump selection dice side, my thoughts (Pan World 100PX Magnetic Water Pump). A lot of head and fluid movement.

7: Need an idea on how to make a circuit board that allows the changing of VRs and will the leads hinder things if overly long?

8: Will it work to expected temps of -25c or better?

Probably build a smaller prototype first out of 6 inch HAVC ducting components, a lot of duct tape and a couple of MDF boxes. If not doable will have some parts for something else.
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post #2 of 8
This seems interesting. Definitely hoping to see more. Gl dude.

From Finland with Desire
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post #3 of 8
I like it. Sub zero temps without condensation as long as the desicant can take all the moisture out of the air. Keep us posted on how it works out.
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post #4 of 8
Interesting idea but unfortunately the amount of DICE needed would make this extremely impractical. An air conditioner can deliver sub 0c temps indefinitely. Basically the same mod as an a/c chiller conversion but using a larger cooler(28qt or so) to house the mobo. All cables get run through holes and sealed with silicon.. the top gets a rubber gasket to seal it airtight. Very simple, cheap and effective sub 0c cooling.

5. Very little.. nothing to worry about. Air leaks in the chamber are what will make or break this.

7. The length of the leads shouldn't make any difference. Maybe mount a multi terminal connector on the vga and run a mutli wire cable to the circuit board. The circuit board will have all the vr's switches and voltage test points. You can get a small circuit board and all the connectors at Radio Shack.

8. A large enough a/c could.. I'm sure DICE would be much lower but of course very short lived. Maybe combine the two for benching somehow. I used to use an a/c chillbox to protect the mobo and cool the vga when running phase on the cpu.. this worked extremely well. Maybe do something similar but have a chilled liquid loop inside that you can boost with DICE extrenally via heat exchanger.

GL with this.. hope to see more.

Drew
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post #5 of 8
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the comments, had already convinced myself that a dice only solution was not viable and started thinking along a regular slush box with a secondary pot for the dice. Will use ice for testing and the AC suggestion is a more probable long term solution, since a cooler will already be in use, easy conversion to a AC chiller.

Bought a solderless breadboard but need to test it first to see if it is practical.

Have started gleaming parts for the mb side of things and have some 8 inch round metal air duct parts in the garage from some other projects. Have found PS, PS2, USB extensions panel mountable, DVI is still a problem. Will start this coming weekend using the sawsall on an old case for the MB tray and other metal parts.

Most of the other parts I’ve decided on DC rad fans, heater cores and oil coolers, being automotive shouldn’t have a problem with the cold.

This is going to be a long drawn out project have to hide the expenditures over some months to keep things right at home.
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post #6 of 8
Removed.
post #7 of 8
Thread Starter 
This has been sitting for some time, but here is the new plan.

AC unit, 12,300 BTU using R22


General Layout


Layout of the In / Out panel, mirrored so I can glue it to the back of an Antec case top.


Misc. parts on hand, mb tray, fan assembly and all power & in / out cables


Have two heater cores in the mail and a Little Giant 3-MD pump.

Pump Spec’s
http://www.pexuniverse.com/docs/pdf/3-MD-specs.pdf

All online ordering is done except a couple sets of Koolance quick disconnects and I can not seem to locate 5/8” ID silicone heater hose. Everything else can be found locally. Fans run about 60 watts a piece at 12 volts, backing it in from motor resistance. If all goes well should have it up and running by the first of the year.

12/8/12

Checking fit for the MB control & In/Out panel.



1/7/2013

Lied had way to much to do over the holidays, Dry fit on the Rads and a shot of the pump.



2/9/2013

Finished radiator component, frame has two coats of spar varnish with a coat of epoxy based appliance paint and clear silicone caulk for the gaps. Next phase is constructing the mounting frame for the evaporator.


Edited by Aleslammer - 2/10/13 at 10:25am
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post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 
After assembling the frame for the evaporator, it might be some time before my next post everyone (mostly wife & kids) have been using the garage for a storage area and drastically cut down on the work area, even took my reserved space near the garage door. Need space to construct a platform to mount the ac unit and the box to hold the finished parts and at present I’m SOL.



2/18/13

Time to finish, got tired of not having room


Edited by Aleslammer - 2/18/13 at 2:13pm
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