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post #21 of 49
a little cable management will help air flow. the 300 does not have vent hole at the bottom for the psu, huh?


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post #22 of 49
I'd try to manually lower the HT speed to get it at 2000. Mine was playing mean until I lowered that. I was able to get 5 core stable by disabling the 4th core (which you think # 5 or 6 would be the one to hold me back).

4.0 @ 1.4V (5core)
x16 multi
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2.0 HT
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post #23 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wutface View Post

The 300 does indeed have top exhaust, and this board has heatsinks on the VRMs,
450450450
Ambient temp is @22* C during day and closer to 16*C at night in this particular room.
LLC is and has been off...
I'm a little confused however. You want me to get up to as high as my system will boot? I could probably boot at 4core until 4.5. Please clarify if I need to raise the multiplier up to the highest setting I can boot into before I can get some relevant information pertaining to my particular situation.
I have been trying to focus on one thing at a time. However if I'm pushing the CPU past a limit in an unstable situation then it's a moot point. I don't care about how high I can get it if it's going to crash when I get into something cpu intensive, or worse, end up with a corrupt OS due to instability.
I'm just trying to get my computer at 4.0GHz, I don't want any higher than that, and I'd prefer to get it that high w/o pumping 1.5V+ into it.

What I'm telling you is you will be in the same situation in a month from now if you run a 24hr prime test every change you make.If LLC has been off then turn it on auto.Your voltages will read higher without LLC vs with LLC on.What you want to find is how your chip scales.Then you can place it in the "sweetspot" of the curve.I know that if I can boot at 4.3 GHz,getting 4.0 stable should be easy.If it will barely hit 4.0 without a lot of voltage,I'll know I have a 3.8GHz stable chip.
Edited by Redwoodz - 3/3/12 at 6:11am
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post #24 of 49
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwoodz View Post

What I'm telling you is you will be in the same situation in a month from now if you run a 24hr prime test every change you make.If LLC has been off then turn it on auto.Your voltages will read higher without LLC vs with LLC on.What you want to find is how your chip scales.Then you can place it in the "sweetspot" of the curve.I know that if I can boot at 4.3 GHz,getting 4.0 stable should be easy.If it will barely hit 4.0 without a lot of voltage,I'll know I have a 3.8GHz stable chip.

Cool'n'Quiet - OFF
LLC - OFF
Turbo - OFF
C1E -
Ram 1600 - Volts Auto
Everything Else is auto
I can get from 3.0-3.3 booting into windows at 1.175V
3.4 - 1.1875
3.5- 1.2250
3.6 - 1.2500
3.7 - 1.2875
3.8 - 1.3250
3.9 - 1.3625
4.0 - 1.4000
4.1 - 1.4375
4.2 - 1.4875
4.3- 1.5250

Solely setting the multiplier and voltages on the Vcore. This is just booting into windows and validating with CPU-Z.

Along the way I got stop codes:

-> This one : 0x101 = increase vcore
-> This one : 0x1A = Memory management error. It usually means a bad stick of Ram. Test with Memtest or whatever you prefer. Try raising your Ram voltage
-> This one : 0x1E = increase vcore
-> This one : 0x3B = increase vcore
-> This one : 0x50 = RAM timings/Frequency or uncore multi unstable, increase RAM voltage or adjust QPI/VTT, or lower uncore if you're higher than 2x
-> This one : 0x7E = Corrupted OS file, possibly from overclocking. Run sfc /scannow and chkdsk /r

as well as :

0x19; 0x7F

So, what else can I do for you to help me?

Rdr: I would like to better manage my cables but with this particular PSU it's a bit of a pain. I'll see what I can do to improve that further once I've got the fan I ordered to install on the heatsink. Fortunately, I believe I have sufficient airflow at the time being, it's not optimal, but it is and should be more than sufficient. If air were like jell-o it wouldn't be, luckily it's air. The PSU sucks air down and out the bottom/back, the top and rear/top fans also suck air out. The air is cool even while stress testing.

Thank you all for your time and consideration, awaiting your response~

Edit: I set the Vcore to 1.45 and am in windows. I ran hyperpi 32M on high but BSOD'd x0124. I increased the CPU-NB from 1.1750V to 1.2250V and re-ran hyper-pi successfully. Will be trying to run p95 now and will update with the info when that fails. I'm essentially at the same point I was at 3 days ago, but at least I've got documentation so I don't get asked to repeat the same stuff over and over again.
Edited by Wutface - 3/3/12 at 1:59pm
post #25 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wutface View Post

Cool'n'Quiet - OFF
LLC - OFF
Turbo - OFF
C1E -
Ram 1600 - Volts Auto
Everything Else is auto
I can get from 3.0-3.3 booting into windows at 1.175V
3.4 - 1.1875
3.5- 1.2250
3.6 - 1.2500
3.7 - 1.2875
3.8 - 1.3250
3.9 - 1.3625
4.0 - 1.4000
4.1 - 1.4375
4.2 - 1.4875
4.3- 1.5250
Solely setting the multiplier and voltages on the Vcore. This is just booting into windows and validating with CPU-Z.
Along the way I got stop codes:
-> This one : 0x101 = increase vcore
-> This one : 0x1A = Memory management error. It usually means a bad stick of Ram. Test with Memtest or whatever you prefer. Try raising your Ram voltage
-> This one : 0x1E = increase vcore
-> This one : 0x3B = increase vcore
-> This one : 0x50 = RAM timings/Frequency or uncore multi unstable, increase RAM voltage or adjust QPI/VTT, or lower uncore if you're higher than 2x
-> This one : 0x7E = Corrupted OS file, possibly from overclocking. Run sfc /scannow and chkdsk /r
as well as :
0x19; 0x7F
So, what else can I do for you to help me?
Rdr: I would like to better manage my cables but with this particular PSU it's a bit of a pain. I'll see what I can do to improve that further once I've got the fan I ordered to install on the heatsink. Fortunately, I believe I have sufficient airflow at the time being, it's not optimal, but it is and should be more than sufficient. If air were like jell-o it wouldn't be, luckily it's air. The PSU sucks air down and out the bottom/back, the top and rear/top fans also suck air out. The air is cool even while stress testing.
Thank you all for your time and consideration, awaiting your response~

Wut,

try your 4GHz (20X200) settings at 1.42V or higher (stop at 1.5V).

-remember to set everything back to default first and disable HT, C1E, C&Q, Turbo
-RAM at auto including voltage
-LLC for cpu and cpu/nb (if present) in AUTO
-set HT back down to 2000 as suggested by metal

i am running out of ideas.
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post #26 of 49
Thread Starter 
The thing is I'm able to boot into windows without a major leap in voltage up until 4.3, if I didn't mind going above 1.5 I could probably get this thing up to 4.5 to at least boot into windows. The board itself says for AM3 processors with manual overclock I should disable LLC. The voltage for CPU-NB has no auto, it's just 1.175 on default settings. I increased it to 1.2250V because that's what the common stop codes thread said, and it worked.

I'm pretty sure my stability has something to do with the NB. Either NB voltage, CPU-NB voltage, HT, or ram Voltage and timings (since I know little to nothing about DDR3 ram.

Various sources have said that increasing the NB frequency helps with not only speed (which is something I have witnessed on stable clock settings) but also stability on these procs. Numerous sources also claim that with these processors, the HT should run at the same frequency as the NB.

I know everyone here claims that Gappos is the best, because well he's from this site.. but to be honest it's vague and little helpful unless you have a machine that boots right the eff up at a 20 multi.

Here is some more information that may or may not be of interest to you.

http://www.overclockers.com/step-guide-overclock-amd-phenom/
http://www.overclockers.com/the-importance-of-northbridge-overclocking-with-the-phenom-ii/

Again, I take everything with a grain of salt. But as I've explained, this brute force OC'ing of "RAISE MULTI AND VOLTS HERP" isn't working. It, in fact, needs finesse. It makes no sense that I can boot with such low voltages to such a high clock speed, but not be able to run stable. There is something else at fault, and I intend to find out. It's a puzzle, I like puzzles, but the same info over and over doesn't help.

Edit for clarification: It's not solely* Vcore.
I doubt it's temperatures.

Insanity is repeating the same mistakes and expecting different results.

Failed P95 at 1.45V. Tried raising to 1.46V, tried testing with OCCT, failed again.
*Enabled LLC* Retesting using OCCT and monitoring temps. It's failing before the core temps are going above 40* and before the CPU-temp is above 55*
so I have another @15 degrees to go before I need to worry about temps possibly* messing up my chip as they're rated to 62* core (which is about 77* cpu temp on my machine)
Edited by Wutface - 3/3/12 at 3:07pm
post #27 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wutface View Post

The thing is I'm able to boot into windows without a major leap in voltage up until 4.3, if I didn't mind going above 1.5 I could probably get this thing up to 4.5 to at least boot into windows. The board itself says for AM3 processors with manual overclock I should disable LLC. The voltage for CPU-NB has no auto, it's just 1.175 on default settings. I increased it to 1.2250V because that's what the common stop codes thread said, and it worked.
I'm pretty sure my stability has something to do with the NB. Either NB voltage, CPU-NB voltage, HT, or ram Voltage and timings (since I know little to nothing about DDR3 ram.
Various sources have said that increasing the NB frequency helps with not only speed (which is something I have witnessed on stable clock settings) but also stability on these procs. Numerous sources also claim that with these processors, the HT should run at the same frequency as the NB.
I know everyone here claims that Gappos is the best, because well he's from this site.. but to be honest it's vague and little helpful unless you have a machine that boots right the eff up at a 20 multi.
Here is some more information that may or may not be of interest to you.
http://www.overclockers.com/step-guide-overclock-amd-phenom/
http://www.overclockers.com/the-importance-of-northbridge-overclocking-with-the-phenom-ii/
Again, I take everything with a grain of salt. But as I've explained, this brute force OC'ing of "RAISE MULTI AND VOLTS HERP" isn't working. It, in fact, needs finesse. It makes no sense that I can boot with such low voltages to such a high clock speed, but not be able to run stable. There is something else at fault, and I intend to find out. It's a puzzle, I like puzzles, but the same info over and over doesn't help.
It's not Vcore.
I doubt it's temperatures.
Insanity is repeating the same mistakes and expecting different results.

Wut,

here are my personal seetings at 4GHz on my ASUS mobo. Labelling may differ to your mobo:

Quad

- CPU Ratio: 20
- CPU/HT: 200
- RAM: 1600/1.63v (set manually)
- CPU: 4000/1.40v
- CPU/NB: 2600/1.35v
- CPU LLC: enabled
- CPU/NB LLC: enabled

NOTE: just like my previous post, set default first and disable what needs disabled

HEX

- everything the same except CPU: 4000/1.42v.


NOTE 2: the voltage of RAM should be as specified by manufacturer. yours might be 1.5V.



-
Edited by rdr09 - 3/3/12 at 3:15pm
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post #28 of 49
I only briefly skimmed through most posts, and I'm going off of the CPU-Z screenshot at the beginning, but I noticed you have overclocked via ref clock and did not compensate for Hyper Transport.

If you raise your "FSB" (That's not really what it is, but what everyone calls it...) or ref clock, you have to drop the HT/RAM multiplier until they are running at stock speeds.

Personally, overclocking PIIs, I would leave RAM at 1333 speed (667) until I found max CPU speed, and NEVER overclock HT-Link. No point in it. 2400MHz on HT-Link is enough to cause errors.
post #29 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by m0bius View Post

I only briefly skimmed through most posts, and I'm going off of the CPU-Z screenshot at the beginning, but I noticed you have overclocked via ref clock and did not compensate for Hyper Transport.
If you raise your "FSB" (That's not really what it is, but what everyone calls it...) or ref clock, you have to drop the HT/RAM multiplier until they are running at stock speeds.
Personally, overclocking PIIs, I would leave RAM at 1333 speed (667) until I found max CPU speed, and NEVER overclock HT-Link. No point in it. 2400MHz on HT-Link is enough to cause errors.

yes, thanks. Metal mentioned the same thing - to set the HT back to 2000. are we talking about the same thing?

BIOS labelling differ from mobo to mobo.
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post #30 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdr09 View Post

yes, thanks. Metal mentioned the same thing - to set the HT back to 2000. are we talking about the same thing?
BIOS labelling differ from mobo to mobo.

I believe so, reading back through it makes me think that OP is trying to to do too much at once. Over clock exactly one thing at a time. One thing I have noticed on the 3 PIIs I have owned is that increasing NB VOLTAGE but not frequency seems to be mandatory after a while. I have a 960T unlocked to X6 running 3.7GHz on stock volts, with an AsRock 970 Extreme3 in my wives machine. Hyper Transport gives such little gains, and so many errors, I personally don't feel it is worth it to overclock. I always run it stock speed. LLC should be enabled to whatever level will make bios Voltages stay the closest to steady under load possible and that will vary between machines.

Also, work with your multi ONLY for awhile.
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