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post #11 of 23
Thread Starter 
Top black box is a 5.25" fan controller
the 3x5.25" is a fan that is currently taking in air
the bottom is a single res, on top of the res is the pump


and at the bottom it is on its side but I figured since it already holds a 120mm fan there cutting out that piece everyone seems to remove and adding the rx120 which is 125mm tall when vertical I was pretty sure it would fit fine, considering the fan doesnt touch the start of the hot swap bays.
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post #12 of 23
is there extra modding needed to fix 480 on top of 800D?
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post #13 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellish View Post

Top black box is a 5.25" fan controller
the 3x5.25" is a fan that is currently taking in air
the bottom is a single res, on top of the res is the pump
and at the bottom it is on its side but I figured since it already holds a 120mm fan there cutting out that piece everyone seems to remove and adding the rx120 which is 125mm tall when vertical I was pretty sure it would fit fine, considering the fan doesnt touch the start of the hot swap bays.

Lemme repeat single bay res really suck for tight spots. Fan controller most likely won't clear by the *rad* because of the fittings. I use a short cut down rheobus and it still hits the fittings.

Bottom rad, I would highly recommend you lay a 240 flat instead of going with two 120s, it's a better use of the space and you won't lose an intake hole. The bottom floor is tailor made for a 240.
Edited by tsm106 - 3/5/12 at 5:31pm
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post #14 of 23
Thread Starter 
This is exactly it except I will be removing the optical drive and not using it to have the res
6890411001_537476ecbd_z.jpg

At the bottom I dont want to push hot air up into the case after hitting the 240, and I dont lose in intake the bottom is still taking in air, and the sideways rad is just taking in air and pushing it out the side

Quote:
Originally Posted by toolate View Post

is there extra modding needed to fix 480 on top of 800D?

yes
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post #15 of 23
Oops, meant to say won't clear the rad due to the fittings.
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post #16 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm106 View Post

Oops, meant to say won't clear the rad due to the fittings.
Im confused now... I thought you said it would clear as yours did, this pic might help a bit

6957625647_14aa2b360c_o.png

the "problem area" is there with the 480 barbs but I am eying it and it looks decent.
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post #17 of 23
Oh I see now. A controller won't fit next to the fittings imo. But it doesn't really matter because you could just swap positions of your bay fan and the controller, it'd achieve the same thing. Btw, on your bottom rad, are you cutting holes for airflow?
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post #18 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm106 View Post

Oh I see now. A controller won't fit next to the fittings imo. But it doesn't really matter because you could just swap positions of your bay fan and the controller, it'd achieve the same thing. Btw, on your bottom rad, are you cutting holes for airflow?

Yea, there is going to be one of these on each side
bittshwhmes12mos.jpg


and the controller is smaller then the bay fan adapter as seen in the pic above
Edited by Hellish - 3/5/12 at 7:03pm
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post #19 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by braudrist View Post

Sorry for off topic but is it easy to cut the top panel to fit a rad? What tool(s) do you think is best to use? I'm a bit scared doing it myself because i'm very clumsy with my hands biggrin.gif

All you really need is a dremel with the EZ kit. That's what I did.
post #20 of 23
Make sure you put the rad as far back as you can or you won't be able to feed the I/O cables where it originally fed through unless you run the cables prior to mounting the rad. Oops biggrin.gif Either way, it will still work out nicely.
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