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Window kit mod on an Antec, other mods too w/ pics

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Here are some pics of the simple mods that I have done on my Folding and Testing rig. I started with a very basic Antec SLK2650. It had a single 120mm exhaust on the backside and a single 80mm intake on the front. I have this rig OC’d to 2549Mhz (1.42V), and the DDR400 RAM (Kingston Value series) is running at 424.6Mhz (Auto voltage). Yesterday I posted a thread because I couldn’t get my RAM OC’d with the CPU speed . I figured it out this morning after a good nights sleep, dreaming about rigs.

I apologise for the poor quality pics. My excuse it a 6-7 year old 1.3 MegaPixel camera

Mods done:

•All cables and wires have been sleeved.
•Front 80mm is on a Zalman controller that is mounted on the backside. (I used it even though it robs some of the RPM’s)
•Front 120mm intake. I moved the optical drive to the top bay so that the airflow would have a straight-through shot. I found this beneficial as the CNPS9500 is one of the coolest looking HSF’s out there, but not one of the coolest operating (Towers kiil them IMHO) as it requires excellent airflow.
•Zalman CNPS 9500 (CPU is at 40C / 52C {PC Probe})
•Zalman VF700 (the 7600FT is running at 626/1650)
•Antec VGA exhaust to aid cooling (GPU is 63C – idle) – (Staples $9.95)
•CompUSA 3-fan contoller (CPU/GPU/Front 120mm)
•Homemade Piezo buzzer (parts purchased at Radio Shack)
•Window kit from Crazy PC

Internal wire management:


This is a pic of the Piezo buzzer. I took the original speaker and put it in the P180, as it did not come with one. Shame on you Antec.


These are pics of the Zalman controller that operates the 80mm intake. For the 120mm intake I used a Dremel and cut the cases front bezels to so that the 120 could be mounted to them. I was able to attach the fan in such a way that the original mounting clips functioned. This makes for easy removal and replacement. Although not pictured the intake does have a filter and a bezel.


…And the window mounted. Sorry I don’t have pics of the procedure. It took about 45 minutes to complete. I used tin shears to cut the side panel aperture, and it was easier than using a Dremel. I used blue painters tape to mark off the intended cut and to protect the metal of the cover that was to remain. The cutting was easy at first as there was plenty of rigidity, but as I progressed I had to take more and more care not to warp the side-panel as I cut it. Patience prevailed. The verticle line that appears in the second shot is a reflection, not a massive gouge!


The window kit was easy to install, but the moulding was about 1†too short – on well – I get to look at the pretty blue lights on twin Zalmans.
Flux
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Flux
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post #2 of 6
Looks like you have spent alot of time thiking and applying the mod. Some nice pics and ideas here. Good luck with that and future endeavours.
post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ENTERPRISE1701
Looks like you have spent alot of time thiking and applying the mod. Some nice pics and ideas here. Good luck with that and future endeavours.
Thank you.
Flux
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Flux
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post #4 of 6
Very nice looking PC, love the wire management, I need a new PSU with better cables, mine looks crap because my PSU cables don't have Heatshrink.
Monk's BF3 Rig
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Monk's BF3 Rig
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post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkmachine
Very nice looking PC, love the wire management, I need a new PSU with better cables, mine looks crap because my PSU cables don't have Heatshrink.
Yeah, the PSU is the hardest piece of hardware to get to look presentable. I am using modular PSU's to help with cable clutter.

There is a heated debate as to whether modular PSU's are stable enough insofar as the power delivery. There can be a slight fluctuation and/or drop, but it doesn't seem to be too detrimental.

Hmmm... choosing vanity over stability

Thanks for the comments
Flux
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Flux
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post #6 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrillian
There is a heated debate as to whether modular PSU's are stable enough insofar as the power delivery. There can be a slight fluctuation and/or drop, but it doesn't seem to be too detrimental.
http://www.overclock.net/power-suppl...-answered.html

Check out my post there if you're curious about modular PSU's. As long as the unit is decent, the modular connectors won't make a difference. The wire alone provides 4 times more resistance than the modular connectors.

Nicely put together though. I'm battling with whether I want to forget about sleeving and just hide all my wires, or keep them visible, but neatly arranged and sleeved (like yours).
RAID0R
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RAID0R
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