Originally Posted by electro2u
I've personally tried a super thick DVI cable from monoprice and it was actually worse than the one I already had.
There are some really good cables (supposedly) available on Amazon for reasonable money. Cables do make a difference sometimes for sure. I had a Qnix for a little while that couldn't do more than 85Hz with the cable it came with. Same exact timings using a cable I bought from a local shop got me 105Hz.
I'll do a little poking around and see if I can find a cable I can recommend, but I hate leading people astray--like with this SE business grrrr
I've never opened any of these monitors up I have this mental block about it. I'm just not very handy.
Now the other stuff--The top cards' outputs... something funny there, I'll come back to it--I do know why you can't see your BIOS:
It's because you have the monitor connected to the bottom card and the BIOS is sending the signal to the top card.
Obvious thing is to switch the cards but I would want to know why the top outputs aren't functioning. Did you have another monitor connected to that card already via HDMI or something?
I just purchased the Monoprice 24AWG cable (10' version) and it works fine for me, actually it helped me reach 120Hz with some mild timing adjustments which I couldn't reach before with a store bought 28AWG from Tigerdirect. So not all cables are bad.
And as for the "SE" business, I mentioned a few pages back that mine was labelled as an SE as well since it was in the Serial number (proof below) and had a sticker on the box that it was the "2B overclock" version. The "SE" moniker has nothing to do with overclock quality. They called it the SE as the second edition or special edition (or whatever abbreviation it means with the Korean manufactures or ebayers just renaming it whatever they want) since it usually only came with the "2C" board at first, then they slipped in the "2B" boards by retrofitting them. More than likely because they "2C"s were not selling as well or couldn't sell at a higher price. It is the same S-IPS panel, same tcon board, etc as the original overclocked Catleap discussed here. The SE name has been around since 2012 and it's nothing new.EDIT
I have read that the SE could mean 'Lite" version that doesn't include speakers (yet mine were there, just not connected) or tempered glass in front of the panel, only DVI-D input and no OSD.
As }SkOrPn--' has mentioned, it could be the internal cables that maybe holding the overclocks back for some. As it's been mentioned before, there is no guarantee to hit the 120Hz mark. So if you can only reach 96Hz, you shouldn't be disappointed or if you can manage more without the golden 120Hz mark, be happy it's better than 60Hz. Look at the overlord site and read the reviews, even that setup most people don't reach 120Hz all the time. It's the luck of the draw. LG did design the "2B" board to handle 120Hz but was never certified that all panels, all parts installed would handle such bandwidth. My thoughts about the 2B board was LG was planning on introducing a 3D IPS monitor during the push of the great 3D fad. 3D fad was done, LG never bothered to pursue it anymore and completely abandoned the idea with many boards being built already. The aftermarket then slapped these boards in with the LG panels and sold them as overclocked (and only when discovered it can be overclocked) with some inferior parts included.
As with overclocking any type of electronic component that is not certified to run at that clockspeed, there will be different results, not always in your favor just like CPU's.
Oh and one thing I forgot to mention, even drivers do have issues with overclocking, at least with AMD. I tried a beta set and it didn't clock too well at 115Hz -120Hz for some reason. I install a different driver and it works fine. Something to keep in mind as well.
Originally Posted by latprod
Yeah I've tried a few different ones using CRU as well..weird stuff. But I will post it and we can go from there.
I've read for hours on the 120hz.net forums, and a lot of people are very adamant that you should use a 24AWG dual link dvi cable.
Unfortunately, I have only seen these on monoprice and I can't get them over here.
I can always try a different cable, but I kind of have a feeling it won't matter.
I really don't wanna open the thing up either, since I'm not exactly a handyman.
Btw, do you know why I can't use any DDVI outputs in my top 780Ti card? And why the monitor doesn't switch on until windows is loaded?
As for the bios display, I agree the DVI cable must be connected to the very top card or you will have to wait until windows loads with the secondary card. The same happens with my AMD cards. During post, it checks to see what is installed on the PCI-E bus and it usually starts with Bus #1 on the top, and if it finds a video device on the top it will display there even without a cable. For windows O/S and the actual video driver, it wont matter which device you connect to. Usually in bios, there is the option to display first from PCI, PCI-E, or intergrated, and sometime a rare option of which bus # to use. Best way to force drivers to behave is to remove the secondary card, load the PC up with the primary card so it can reconfigure, then power down and install the secondary card and power up and see if that does the trick. Now if BIOS still doesn't display on the main card, pull both cards out, then put the first card back in to kinda kick BIOS in the ass to recognize once again to check bus #1 (or 2) with video display and there is a monitor connected. Then follow with re installing the secondary card.EDIT
Oops, I just read the other post just like me you are watercooling the cards and used a Qnix monitor with the primary card. This is what I get when I'm over tired while typing this reply. Just try the driver trick with uninstalling and connecting to the primary card, and reinstalling the drivers. If that doesn't work, with the primary card connected to the monitor, clear your CMOS for bios to reconfigure.
Originally Posted by desiromeo
And he just raised the prices of the monitor by $10. What an *******...dunno if its cuz of the fiasco above or a lot of people have been buying them in the past few days...guess ill have to wait or go with Qnix.
It's the supply and demand that changes the price. I paid a little more, then it dropped in price, but now looks like it has started to go up again. I think it's because other sellers like the one I bought from have sold out, now green-sum and bigcloth are the only ones with it in stock.
Originally Posted by electro2u
Another SE... And yes the profiling does help quite a bit. Can rent a colorimeter for this for anyone interested.
Wanted to mention that for certain games I found 96/110 sort of refresh rates were causing problems with in game videos. Best example I know of is Tomb Raider. These videos are stuttery at any refresh rate that isn't a multiple of 30- so 90hz works great.
I used the profile at the first page of this thread and it got rid of the green hue that comes with the default colors. It's probably the best calibration I've seen for this panel.http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_14138895476507&key=7777bc3c17029328d03146e0ed767841&libId=9f0333dd-48f7-43a8-b447-75007793c07f&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Ft%2F1225919%2Fyamakasi-catleap-monitor-club&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.monitortests.com%2Fyamakasi-catleap-q270-led%2Fcatleap-d65.icm&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.ca%2F&title=Yamakasi%20Catleap%20Monitor%20Club&txt=catleap-d65.icmEdited by ontariotl - 10/21/14 at 5:08am