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Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club - Page 1061

post #10601 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by }SkOrPn--' View Post

LVDS cables are hard to get, and there are many different connectors. I have not put in enough research and hunting to find them as of yet, but I have found them.

What I would like to do is make my own. All I need to do is figure out how the pins are removed and replace them with new ones with better copper wire and shielding. But many guys at many of these website such as 120hz etc, have said that it is rare to get an actual bad DVI cable, and much more common for the LVDS cable to be causing the overclocking limit. They have seen where a monitor would not overclock worth crap, and then they replaced the LVDS cables and bam 120hz immediately. These Korean monitors use the absolute cheapest possible LVDS cables.

That is all I know. If you find out any further info on materials to make these in much higher quality let me know and I will start building them for all the members here thumb.gif

Opened panel up today reseated the cabled. I used a small screwdriver and lightly pushed in each pin one by one. I could feel a light click on each one because the pins are loose. I thought that was going to do the trick since they where so loose. But nope nothing changed still red dots at above 100hz
Quote:
Originally Posted by desiromeo View Post

Hi thank you for the quick response...When you say much better colors on the catleap bcuz of the glossy display..what exactly is much better?? Looking at both monitor the catleap looks a little better aesthetically. Any difference in build quality? I do have windows but dont think they would much of an issue to pick matte over glossy. Were you able to hit 114hz without messing with the timings or w.e?

Is the stand any better on the catleap? Also is there any difference between the IPS catleap vs the PLS Qnix?

I just took mine apart QNIX seemed like it had a more solid vesa mount and catleap had better stand. Blacks are blacker than QNIX. But mainly QNIX colors distort at higher hz thats the main reason at 60hz they are both really good. Catleap is great color out of box though. Color profiles don't really help much at all with Catleap its almost perfect out of box.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shremi View Post

I have been researching ebay for the LDVS cables i saw that there are a couple of options to buy used mac cables i just need to know which are the correct ones and ill give them a try anyone got some insight on this ????

Let us know if you find anything

Quote:
Originally Posted by ontariotl View Post


I have read that the SE could mean 'Lite" version that doesn't include speakers (yet mine were there, just not connected) or tempered glass in front of the panel, only DVI-D input and no OSD.

My speaker wasn't connected either. I left it disconnected.
 
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post #10602 of 11298
I would remove the speakers entirely, just to get rid of any possible magnetic-field pollution near the DVI electronics. thumb.gif
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post #10603 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by }SkOrPn--' View Post

I would remove the speakers entirely, just to get rid of any possible magnetic-field pollution near the DVI electronics. thumb.gif

I guess I could open mine up then, go over the cabling and remove the speakers etcetera. But how hard is this to do?
I've never opened a monitor before, so I'm unsure of how finicky it is to re-assemble, whether things have to be "just right" or I can't close the damn thing or something like that.
If I ruin it I'm totally screwed, since I really don't have the cash to just get another one.
Since people seem to struggle with the "SE" models, eventhough this supposedly is a 2b board, they must have done something to it that is cheaper in some way. Like people said, I reached 120hz on my qnix with tight timings and 110 with automatic, no problem at all.
It just frustrates me especially when the catleap cost more. Though the picture is clearly better and there is no BLB at all....
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post #10604 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by latprod View Post

I guess I could open mine up then, go over the cabling and remove the speakers etcetera. But how hard is this to do?
I've never opened a monitor before, so I'm unsure of how finicky it is to re-assemble, whether things have to be "just right" or I can't close the damn thing or something like that.
If I ruin it I'm totally screwed, since I really don't have the cash to just get another one.
Since people seem to struggle with the "SE" models, eventhough this supposedly is a 2b board, they must have done something to it that is cheaper in some way. Like people said, I reached 120hz on my qnix with tight timings and 110 with automatic, no problem at all.
It just frustrates me especially when the catleap cost more. Though the picture is clearly better and there is no BLB at all....
Oh, if your not comfortable in doing that, then I wouldn't risk it. But your a member here at OCN, so dont you regularly mod stuff, and build things etc, and thus very handy with things like this? I also have never opened a monitor, but looking at videos it looks like something I could do with a blind fold.

Lol, if a 12 year old girl can take apart a computer and put it back together while blindfolded such as this child here, than I am sure I can take apart and put back together a monitor.

Oh and I'm just teasing you, please do not do something you are not comfortable with. That is a surefire way to kill something. Maybe watch every video you can find, and take apart instructions over at ifixit.com before attemtping anything like that. Its surely not a screwless design like the HP Z1...
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post #10605 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by }SkOrPn--' View Post

Oh, if your not comfortable in doing that, then I wouldn't risk it. But your a member here at OCN, so dont you regularly mod stuff, and build things etc, and thus very handy with things like this? I also have never opened a monitor, but looking at videos it looks like something I could do with a blind fold.

Lol, if a 12 year old girl can take apart a computer and put it back together while blindfolded such as this child here, than I am sure I can take apart and put back together a monitor.

Oh and I'm just teasing you, please do not do something you are not comfortable with. That is a surefire way to kill something. Maybe watch every video you can find, and take apart instructions over at ifixit.com before attemtping anything like that. Its surely not a screwless design like the HP Z1...

Haha, sure I'm pretty handy with building computers and software in general, but not very handy when it comes to fine electronics, I wouldn't be able to solder anything, f.ex, because I have no idea what I'm doing. But I did take apart and fix an xbox360 once, so I guess I can give it a shot wink.gif
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post #10606 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by latprod View Post

Haha, sure I'm pretty handy with building computers and software in general, but not very handy when it comes to fine electronics, I wouldn't be able to solder anything, f.ex, because I have no idea what I'm doing. But I did take apart and fix an xbox360 once, so I guess I can give it a shot wink.gif
I dont think you would be working with electronics, only plastics, and crap worthless speakers. The case is just screws and snapping apart and back together, but no electronics work involved as far as I can tell. The hard part I think would be getting the monitors plastic case to snap apart, but getting it to snap back together should be much easier.

But how the heck would I know, I only saw videos of it done, lmao...
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post #10607 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by UNOE View Post

Opened panel up today reseated the cabled. I used a small screwdriver and lightly pushed in each pin one by one. I could feel a light click on each one because the pins are loose. I thought that was going to do the trick since they where so loose. But nope nothing changed still red dots at above 100hz
I just took mine apart QNIX seemed like it had a more solid vesa mount and catleap had better stand. Blacks are blacker than QNIX. But mainly QNIX colors distort at higher hz thats the main reason at 60hz they are both really good. Catleap is great color out of box though. Color profiles don't really help much at all with Catleap its almost perfect out of box.
Let us know if you find anything
My speaker wasn't connected either. I left it disconnected.

Hey, when you opened it up, did you just open it slighty and push on it without disconnecting the cables and put it back together or did you disassemble all of it?
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post #10608 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by }SkOrPn--' View Post

I dont think you would be working with electronics, only plastics, and crap worthless speakers. The case is just screws and snapping apart and back together, but no electronics work involved as far as I can tell. The hard part I think would be getting the monitors plastic case to snap apart, but getting it to snap back together should be much easier.

But how the heck would I know, I only saw videos of it done, lmao...

Hehe yeah, I guess. I'm more concerned about getting the panel itself to sit exactly where it should and connect the cables properly again without breaking them. Apparently on the Qnix, it's really easy to break off plastic parts on the connectors unless you're super careful and know which way to push or bend or whatever. So we'll see. I'm never satisfied until I've tried everything so I have to do it sooner or later
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post #10609 of 11298
Still really curious about your timings latprod. The timings on the qnixs i had were very different from my Yamakasi.

These are my timings on my Catleap
post #10610 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by electro2u View Post

Still really curious about your timings latprod. The timings on the qnixs i had were very different from my Yamakasi.

These are my timings on my Catleap


Thanks man, I'll try! Yesterday I tried some "ultra tight timings" that I found on 120hz.net, only for the Nvidia control panel tho, not using cru and patches.
Does CRU allow you more control to tighten things up? Just using catleap driver and NVCP at the moment. What do you recommend?
Timings are:

Front Porc: 0 - 1
Sync width: 1 - 1
Total pixels: 2705 - 1445
Refresh rate: 173.40
Pixel clock: 469.0470

Tried these timings on 120, then 110.
It is much better than before, where 120 would give me an almost unreadable screen, and now it's just all that red artifacting and a few lines.
even getting the occasional line on 96, so I'm not getting why my results are this poor.
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