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Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club - Page 176

post #1751 of 11297
I just finalized a method to get 120hz in single card and 100hz in sli setup on my GTX 680. The same driver works for both SLI and non-SLI setups which is good because for games like Planetside, I'll just go into the menu, disable SLI, and play at 120hz since a single card is more than enough to give me 120fps+. I will be releasing a guide within the hour. This is only confirmed to work with the GTX 680 but the driver and general setup should really help everybody out.
post #1752 of 11297
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by brzyski75 View Post

3. I used a 1 1/2" PLASTIC putty knife to remove the bezel. It was super easy and zero chance of marring the bezel. If you use a straight edged screw driver, you will likely mar the bezel. Go to a hardware store and get a plastic putty knife. Also, with the putty knife, you don't need to search out each clip. Once you get the first one popped you can slide it all the way around and they will all pop. They are 99 cents. Don't be lazy and assume a screwdriver will be fine.
4. I did not unplug the wired connections inside. I thought about it for a minute but they look pretty fragile. You can get the stand out easily without unplugging anything. If you go this route, you might need someone to help hold up the panel. Again, I really would advise unplugging the connectors inside. If the connector comes apart (who hasn't had this happen to them before?) you are screwed. There is no need to remove these to remove the stand.
5. Once I had the stand attached, I was surprised at how flimsy the connection to the stand was. I was expecting rock-solid but it is not a great connection. Seems like a plastic back plate. Once I got it on my desk it seems fine though.
3M Mount Specifics:


#3.  I had no issues using my screwdriver since it is all about applying pressure, not really about the tool.  If there is sufficient pressure any little twist pops the bezel.  Taking your time while disassembling these is the KEY to one, not jacking up the bezel, and two not jacking up your wiring.  Be patient and all will be well!

 

#4.  I am assuming you are advising AGAINST taking the connectors off.  I don't, but that's me.  I have taken apart both monitors now 4 times each and never had an issue.  Just be gentle.  If you rip the damn things out of course they will break.  The connectors are not flimsy, it's just small gauge wire that makes it appear more fragile than it really is.  Take your time, wiggle the connector a little bit, and it will come free.  I was concerned about the DVI cables the first time I took one of these apart, but now have realized by taking my time they come off fine and haven't had an issue.  Personally I think you run the risk of more damage by NOT taking them off.  There isn't that much play in the wires and having someone hold it could lead to pulling the connector off of a board.  Either way there are pitfalls and advantages - go with what works for you (and you are more comfortable with.)

 

I don't think a revision is in order for the instructions - to each his own.  If you don't want to remove the wires, don't.  No big deal.  Besides the walk through is only my way of doing this - your experience may vary!  tongue.gif

 

#5.  Of course it isn't going to be rock solid!  The vesa mounting points on the inside of the monitor are attached to plastic.  There is a thin piece of metal running vertically between the two holes (2 metal strips - one per side for the 4 holes) and that is set inside the plastic shell so there will be some flex to it.  Korean engineering!

 

 

   
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post #1753 of 11297
Having trouble telling versions apart. Is this one DVI-only, no tempered glass?
Link

Thanks!
post #1754 of 11297
Alright folks. The ATI guide for my 101hz-105hz overclock was incredibly over-complicated and messy and filled with tons of redundancies. I've...not let you down. There are still redundancies. But less of them. And this is much easier to follow, imo. This is how I got a stable 120hz on non-SLI gtx 680, and a stable 100hz on SLI mode gtx 680. This works across all apps/games I've tested it with now! And other than me being stupid and taking god knows how long to figure it all out, it's quite simple.

I'm going to repeat, as with my last guide, THERE ARE STEPS HERE THAT ARE POSSIBLY NOT REQUIRED. I went through those steps. They may have been meaningless. But they still got me to where I am. So...to be safe...you're going to do them too. tongue.gif

SUPER AWESOME NVIDIA OVERCLOCK GUIDE (100hz-120hz)

DOWNLOAD 1) Download the latest version of Powerstrip (I'm...unsure how this actually helps with the refresh rate. I don't believe it does. But I like Powerstrip's override feature, and this will also allow you to easily remove that green tint off your monitor, if you haven't already done so. And always a handy app to have)

DOWNLOAD 2) Download This Bad Boy too. dseo13b.zip 631k .zip file

DOWNLOAD 3) Download the Monitor driver next. Catleap_Q270_OC.zip 1k .zip file This driver should be good to use by anyone. It registers the monitor as having upto 123hz refresh rate. However, remember that while the driver lets the system think your monitor can run a higher refresh rate, it doesn't mean your card can handle it. So just because the option might be there, doesn't mean it's safe to do. Know your systems limitations and proceed at your own risk! This isn't really a liability waiver...because if I can be held liable for someone following an unverified guide on a free internet forum...then **** this world and everyone who lives in it. tongue.gif

Steps to follow:

1) Install Powerstrip. Just because I said so. To remove the green tint, if you haven't already, and go to configure colour profiles:
320

Click the green button, and adjust the sliders to remove the tint. For my monitor, the settings below worked perfectly. Each monitor is going to be different though. So play around until it looks right. Or just use a proper calibration software:
471

Or you can skip that step alltogether.

2) Open up dseo13b.exe (inside dseo13b.zip, attached above) It sometimes opens up behind any existing open windows. So you won't see it until you individually minimize other stuff. Hit Next. Yes if you agree to the terms. Select "Enable Test Mode" and hit Next. Restart your computer. You'll notice in the bottom-right corner of your desktop it'll now say your Windows is in Test Mode. I should probably point out that this guide was made on Windows 7 and I have no idea about compatibility with other versions of Windows because...I'm not the manufacturer of the monitor and don't care to cross test. tongue.gif

370

3) Hit the Windows Key + R to bring up the the Run prompt. Type in devmgmt.msc and hit enter. Under Monitors, select your monitor (Dual DVI, or Plug And Play Monitor, or whatever it's called). Right click, and select "Update Driver Software:"

436

Select "Browse my computer for driver software," then "Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer," followed by clicking "Have Disk..."
438

Now browse to the folder you saved the monitor driver in (driver was at the top of the post. make sure you unzip it first):
490

Once you've done that, it should now show the drivers it found in that folder. Select the Overclock.Net monitor from the list, obviously, in case you have multiple drivers that it's located and you should see:
439

Click Next, and once it's installed the driver, you must restart your computer.


4) Once you restart your computer, open up the Nvidia control panel, go to Change Resolution, click Customize, then Create Custom Resolution, as shown here:

477

Once you're there, you want to make either 1 or 2 profiles, depending on whether you're playing with a single card, which card you have, and whether you want to SLI. For many people, the 100hz will be all they can do. Meaning...all pre-gtx 680 cards may be limited to 100hz. All gtx 680 sli setups are limited to 100hz. If you're in that category, please ONLY do the 100hz one. Enter the details as below:

541

Now if you have a single gtx 680 card, or some other card that is known to allow a higher than 400 pixel clock, then you can set up 120hz in pretty much exactly the same way, just with the refresh rate changed from 100hz to 120hz:

545

Please make sure to enter the details on the bottom half of the screen in Manual mode as shown below, otherwise for 100hz SLI or non-gtx 680 single card setups it'll push your pixel clock above 400 and may cause a lot of problem or simply just not work. And for single gtx 680 owners...still better to run the pixel clock as low as possible. So do it. tongue.gif

5) To confirm that the system now reads your refresh rate capabilities properly, go to Powerstrip --> Display Profiles --> Configure, and click on "Hide modes not supported by this monitor." If done properly, the slider on the right of the screen should still slide on over to 100hz or 120hz, depending on what resolutions you set up in Nvidia's control panel. You can also confirm what actual refresh rate you have active now, by double clicking the camera icon next to the slider. If the slider is inactive for you, make sure to select " Standard Discrete Timing" from the drop down menu on that same page instead of "Windows Default." Here's a screenshot showing everything, and also my tested refresh rate at 120.003hz:

412


6) Enable Vsync and test out a game. It should show the proper capped FPS of 100hz or 120hz assuming your card can produce that framerate. Hope you liked this guide a bit better than my last one. Took me a good week to get this all working. So if it works for you, feel free to rep. wink.gif Cheers folks.
post #1755 of 11297
Awesome! Thanks HyperMatrix. I've been waiting for a good Nvidia guide to OC hopefully over the 97hz my monitor is set at, hopefully as soon as I get my 680 GTX (if I can find any). Big thanks! thumb.gif
post #1756 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Pixel View Post

Having trouble telling versions apart. Is this one DVI-only, no tempered glass?
Link
Thanks!

Yup. That's the most basic model. Dual-Link DVI input. No Glass. No Speakers. No other ports. Hopefully also no dead pixels. tongue.gif
post #1757 of 11297
Was browsing the Yamakasi Korean website looking for warranty info, and found some interesting engrish;

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post #1758 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Samurai Batgirl View Post

So...is there a reputable seller on eBay or do you sort of just...guess?

Can recommend green-sum.
post #1759 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by brzyski75 View Post

@ Samurai - I used dcsamsungmall. I live in Chicago. Ordered last Tuesday at 8pm cst. Received on Friday at noon. No dead pixels. I did however get the non-oc version.

How do I know what version is the one I can OC?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-/110834882557?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19ce4617fd
 
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post #1760 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamTwister View Post

Awesome! Thanks HyperMatrix. I've been waiting for a good Nvidia guide to OC hopefully over the 97hz my monitor is set at, hopefully as soon as I get my 680 GTX (if I can find any). Big thanks! thumb.gif

Some have reported the multi/gaming versions are still OC'able but other than that, there is nothing and very very unlikely to get an OC'able model still. That's why Scribby is sourcing the pcb's and cables to get this all done so we can modify the monitors ourselves.
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