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Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club - Page 212

post #2111 of 11286
<<noob to any monitor lingo and specifications.

I was curious about the ag coating vs glossy? The newer orders being place is it safe to say these are infact glossy? I myself didn't see any posts about their monitors arriving with ag coating but I was just curious. Also could anyone give me a definitive answer if tempered glass vs non tempered is anything to look into closely. pros, cons?

random question: would ordering tonight be delayed by the holiday weekend? or should I wait.

thanx guys.
post #2112 of 11286
Hi guys, I just received my monitor! I noticed that my powerbrick is different than the one scribby posted. I have no idea when it comes to electrical equipment so I'm wondering if anyone could let me know if my power adapter works in Canada?

Edit: I did some homework and it doesn't work in Canada (although, I haven't tried). : \ Is this a new phenomenon? Anyone else in Canada or the US stuck with an adapter that doesn't support multiple voltages?

Here's an image of my power brick.

700

Thanks! I'll post more pics once the monitor is running.
Edited by thyroid - 4/3/12 at 7:16pm
post #2113 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by thyroid View Post

Hi guys, I just received my monitor! I noticed that my powerbrick is different than the one scribby posted. I have no idea when it comes to electrical equipment so I'm wondering if anyone could let me know if my power adapter works in Canada?
Edit: I did some homework and it doesn't work in Canada (although, I haven't tried). : \ Is this a new phenomenon? Anyone else in Canada or the US stuck with an adapter that doesn't support multiple voltages?
Here's an image of my power brick.
700
Thanks! I'll post more pics once the monitor is running.

This should work without a problem you just have to swap the cable and use it... in the power block it's indicated that it support the voltage and frequency used here in Canada so no worry about that.
post #2114 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagleeyez View Post

This should work without a problem you just have to swap the cable and use it... in the power block it's indicated that it support the voltage and frequency used here in Canada so no worry about that.

How can you tell? From what I read, we support 110V-120V in Canada and the power brick shows 190V-240V.
post #2115 of 11286
I spent a lot of time trying to get this to work with Fedora Core 16 x86_64, so I though I would post what finally worked in case it helps someone. Fedora kept reporting that the EDID was bad and had a bad checksum and the EDID values wouldn't get loaded.

First, I installed the rpmfusion nvidia drivers and disabled the nouveau drivers. Here are a couple links that helped with that. Step 5 on the second link was helpful in disabling nouveau drivers.

http://rpmfusion.org/Howto/nVidia#GeForce_6_and_newer

http://www.if-not-true-then-false.com/2011/fedora-16-nvidia-drivers-install-guide-disable-nouveau-driver/


Here is a portion of my /etc/X11/xorg.conf and I bolded what I think are the important lines:

Section "Screen"

Identifier "Screen0"
Device "Device0"
Monitor "Monitor0"
DefaultDepth 24
Option "UseEdid" "False"
Option "ExactModeTimingsDVI" "True"
SubSection "Display"
Depth 24
Modes "2560x1440"
EndSubSection
EndSection

Section "Device"
Identifier "Device0"
Driver "nvidia"
VendorName "NVIDIA Corporation"
EndSection


Section "Monitor"

Identifier "Monitor0"
VendorName "Unknown"
ModelName "Unknown"
HorizSync 28.0 - 88.9
VertRefresh 43.0 - 72.0
ModeLine "2560x1440" 241.5 2560 2608 2640 2720 1440 1443 1448 1481 -hsync +vsync
Option "DPMS"
EndSection


I posted my entire xorg.conf here: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/12546716/xorg.conf
post #2116 of 11286
I got the same power brick with my monitor today in the US. Doesn't seem to work. I could have sworn I saw the green light come on when I initially plugged it in, but by the time I tried to turn on the monitor it stopped working. I've tried various outlets and cables. Any ideas?
post #2117 of 11286
I have discovered something particularly interesting that may be relevant to the interests of people hoping to mod 2C's to 2B's. I am temporarily in posession of stryker7314's 2B DVI board while I attempt to repair his damaged backlight driver circuitry (probably just a blown mosfet or something). While I was examining the board though, I noticed something particularly interesting. A couple pictures will illustrate well:

Here's a close shot of the DVI to eDP portion of my 2C DVI board: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
dvi_to_dp_thumb.jpg

And here's an equivalent of stryker's 2B DVI to LVDS board: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
dvi_to_lvds_thumb.jpg

If you examine these two boards closely at this section, you'll probably notice that the big main chip (which is a DVI receiver made by Explore Microelectronics) is present on both; immediately to the left of this chip on the 2C board however is a second chip, labeled IT6251. While I'm unable to find a datasheet on this particular part, I can make a pretty good guess based on the manufacturer's products combined with its placement on the board; it's a 2-channel LVDS to 4-lane eDP converter chip. Why do we care?

Because it means a 2C PCB has all the important components already there to drive a 2B panel and timing controller.

Now, closer examination of the boards reveals that in the 2C they're only using half of the output LVDS lanes (running in 2-channel mode) provided by the EP269 compared to the 4-channel mode on the 2B (indicated by the larger number of resistor packs marked 750 on that board). I don't have a datasheet yet for that exact chip, but a closely related datasheet (EP263) shows that mode selection between output formats is simply chosen by holding a couple pins high or low. By modifying these mode pins on a 2C board's chip and rewiring the output from the chip, we can drive a high refresh T-con by bypassing the ITE LVDS-eDP converter altogether.

Now, this is obviously a highly skilled and labour-intensive mod; you'd need to desolder the 750ohm resistor packs to detach the output from the EP269, solder the mode lines to whatever is required to enable all 4 output channels, then solder a few ribbon cables from the left half of the EP269 to a small daughter board containing a few passive components and a couple 2B style connectors. Once *that* is done though, all you need is a source for the two cables and a T-con (which there seem to be a couple viable sources through taobao, I'll update later with my experience here letting you know if it's a valid way to source the boards) and your previously 2C monitor should overclock with aplomb.

I know this is probably over the heads of a lot of the people reading here, but the take-away point is that assuming you can find somebody with the soldering skills (I doubt I could do the mod for all those interested, although I can pioneer it and produce a guide) it's actually possible to convert a 2C DVI board into effectively a 2B DVI board, solving half our problem (and all of it if you can get a T-con). Sure, it'd be easier if Scribby can source the boards and we can do a drop-in replacement - but worst comes to worst there *is* another way wink.gif

I still need to scare up a copy of the EP269's datasheet, so if anybody comes across it *please* let me know!

As a bonus, while examining the boards and connectors I was able to pin out the LVDS connectors on the 2B PCB if it's useful to anybody. Combined with the SLA1 datasheet, this allows you to reproduce the cables fairly easily if we can't find a ready-made source.
Monolith
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Monolith
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i7 920 C0 4GHz EVGA X58 3X SLI ATi Radeon 4870x2 6GB (3x2GB G-Skill DDR3-1600 9-9-9-24) 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
120GB Vertex2 1TB WD Black LG GH22NS30 Custom watercooling (dual 6" heatercores, 2xMCW... 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Yamakasi Catleap Q270 Lenovo L220x Xarmor U9BL-S (custom controller) PCP&C Silencer 750W 
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Lian-li PC-G70 Logitech G700 Asus Xonar DX 
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post #2118 of 11286
So there seems to be a number of people suggesting that they've received faulty power adapters. My 'Welltronics' has worked fine so far on 240V - my question is whether there is a risk that the power adapters might cause an electrocution or fire hazard?

If so, could you replace it with a different one of a more well-known brand that complies with safety standards? thumb.gif
post #2119 of 11286
Does anyone know the difference between these two adapters? They're by the same seller but there's a huge price difference:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Adapter-24V-5A-For-EFL-2202W-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/280673899776?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415977d500#ht_1531wt_984

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-AC-adapter-for-Sharp-IT23M1U-IT-23M1U-LCD-TV-4-pin-/230429304449?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a6a82681#ht_1535wt_984

The first one is currently on the front page. I would really like a fast resolution to my lack of power.

Edit: Looks like the connector polarity is backwards. Kind of ridiculous that the one we need is so much. And they're all coincidentally very new listings...
Edited by saiyr - 4/3/12 at 10:33pm
post #2120 of 11286
I bought a Catleap last week because of the rave reviews it was getting and just received it yesterday from Red-cap. I was pleasantly surprised to see no dead pixels, but as soon as I saw a bright image on the monitor I noticed it has a brightness gradient. I do a lot of word processing with a mostly white screen and it's starting to annoy the hell out of me. The left half of the screen is significantly brighter than the right half! The monitor also has a faint buzzing sound from the chokes. Its a 2C version Q270 with speakers (no glass).

Has anyone else had this problem? I read probably 100 pages of threads and never heard of banding this severe. I'm in the process of trying to get some kind of refund from Red-cap for this mad.gif

450
Edited by Phenrick - 4/3/12 at 11:16pm
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500k 4.69 GHz @ 1.37V MSI P67A-G43 HIS Radeon HD 6850 (954 Core, 1158 Mem) Corsair 2x2GB 1866 MHz at 9-9-9-26 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Two Velociraptor 10000rpm WD-740HLFS Seagate 500GB 7200rpm None Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 64 bit 27" Yamakasi Catleap WQHD IPS M$ Sidewiner Apex 500W 
CaseMouseAudio
Antec 300 Illusion Logitech M215 Lepai Class-T amp with Fiio E7 DAC 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500k 4.69 GHz @ 1.37V MSI P67A-G43 HIS Radeon HD 6850 (954 Core, 1158 Mem) Corsair 2x2GB 1866 MHz at 9-9-9-26 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Two Velociraptor 10000rpm WD-740HLFS Seagate 500GB 7200rpm None Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 64 bit 27" Yamakasi Catleap WQHD IPS M$ Sidewiner Apex 500W 
CaseMouseAudio
Antec 300 Illusion Logitech M215 Lepai Class-T amp with Fiio E7 DAC 
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Reply
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