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Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club - Page 213

post #2121 of 11286
I ordered my catleap a few hours ago from http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-/320865591510?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab51460d6

Is there a way to tell what I am getting? Since there are all kinds of models without glass and with speaker, these pages don't tell me anything.
post #2122 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phenrick View Post

I bought a Catleap last week because of the rave reviews it was getting and just received it yesterday from Red-cap. I was pleasantly surprised to see no dead pixels, but as soon as I saw a bright image on the monitor I noticed it has a brightness gradient. I do a lot of word processing with a mostly white screen and it's starting to annoy the hell out of me. The left half of the screen is significantly brighter than the right half! The monitor also has a faint buzzing sound from the chokes. Its a 2C version Q270 with speakers (no glass).
Has anyone else had this problem? I read probably 100 pages of threads and never heard of banding this severe. I'm in the process of getting some kind of refund from Red-cap for this piece of #*()$*&@#.mad.gifmad.gifmad.gif

I know I've seen it somewhere in the other thread before, I think someone mentioned it may be due to a loose cable inside the monitor. The buzzing is also fixed by opening the monitor and putting some stuff on it, there is a guide to do it by CharlesK I believe.
     
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post #2123 of 11286
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thyroid View Post

Hi guys, I just received my monitor! I noticed that my powerbrick is different than the one scribby posted. I have no idea when it comes to electrical equipment so I'm wondering if anyone could let me know if my power adapter works in Canada?
Edit: I did some homework and it doesn't work in Canada (although, I haven't tried). : \ Is this a new phenomenon? Anyone else in Canada or the US stuck with an adapter that doesn't support multiple voltages?
Here's an image of my power brick.
700
Thanks! I'll post more pics once the monitor is running.

 

I know people will hate to hear my opinion, but more and more this leads me to believe these monitors are being pieced together with whatever parts and extras manufacturers can find.  This 190-240v brick is an entirely new wrinkle and totally worthless in the US and Canada as it won't be supported.  This is like the Shimian bricks that are like 220-240v only.  

 

Again, these all appear to be grab bag part monitors.  While the panels are great, the PCBs and supporting hardware are whatever comes out of the bin at the end of the line.  Too many variances monitor to monitor for me to think these are all meeting a specific standard or spec.  This also explains why we can by a monitor for $400 less than what is sold here in the US.
 

 

 

   
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post #2124 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by siberx View Post

Now, closer examination of the boards reveals that in the 2C they're only using half of the output LVDS lanes (running in 2-channel mode) provided by the EP269 compared to the 4-channel mode on the 2B (indicated by the larger number of resistor packs marked 750 on that board).
If that's the case, then maybe the DVI board is the limit and not the t-con board. The 2B t-con board seems to be the hardest to source since it's provided with the panel module, so if we can avoid having to replace the 2C t-con board, that would make things easier. We need someone to directly drive the 2C t-con board with DisplayPort to see what it can do.

I'm not sure reverse engineering the 2B boards will get us anywhere. Even if they are successfully reverse engineered (which requires destroying the original boards), where are we going to get all the parts, especially the LG-branded chip on the 2B t-con board? If a microcontroller is involved, where are we going to get the firmware?

I think we'd be better off getting our own boards made or finding existing boards that can do what we want. If the 2C t-con board can do higher refresh rates, then we only need a DVI board, or maybe just a pass through DisplayPort board with HDCP support.
post #2125 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToastyX View Post

I think we'd be better off getting our own boards made or finding existing boards that can do what we want. If the 2C t-con board can do higher refresh rates, then we only need a DVI board, or maybe just a pass through DisplayPort board with HDCP support.

I'm still of the opinion that eDP with the given chips (especially the parade controller on the 2C T-con) is simply not going to give us the bandwidth we need. I'd be more than willing to solder up an adapter board to test direct eDP driving anyways, but I don't have any available displayport outputs on any of my video cards...

This is not to even mention the apparent low pixel clock limits over DP on amd, either.
Edited by siberx - 4/3/12 at 11:02pm
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post #2126 of 11286
Hey,

So I ran my PS3 on the Multi version and it was fine, I don't know how to tell if there is input lag or w/e but for the most part it played fine and movies looked really nice. There were no dead pixels. I'll post up pictures sometime tomorrow.

So far I have only two concerns/problems:

- Is there a way to change the language on the monitor to English? One button (the first one) brought up a menu but I couldn't figure it out
- How can I calibrate this?

*I'd like to note that my pc is still being built and will get it on the weekend.
post #2127 of 11286
I have finally found the time to unbox my Catleap, its awesome, using it right now and it looks great.
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post #2128 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by darrenb123 View Post

- Is there a way to change the language on the monitor to English? One button (the first one) brought up a menu but I couldn't figure it out

Crossover (27MLED) has korean and english judging by its manual, I suspect that Yamakasi has a similiar OSD - so keep trying smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by darrenb123 View Post

- How can I calibrate this?

You will need a hardware calibrator to do this properly.
post #2129 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by saiyr View Post

Does anyone know the difference between these two adapters? They're by the same seller but there's a huge price difference:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Adapter-24V-5A-For-EFL-2202W-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/280673899776?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415977d500#ht_1531wt_984
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-AC-adapter-for-Sharp-IT23M1U-IT-23M1U-LCD-TV-4-pin-/230429304449?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a6a82681#ht_1535wt_984
The first one is currently on the front page. I would really like a fast resolution to my lack of power.
Edit: Looks like the connector polarity is backwards. Kind of ridiculous that the one we need is so much. And they're all coincidentally very new listings...

Aye, I have no idea why they hiked the prices so much - not worth it unless your power brick is broken imo.

I bought one when they were both ~$24 or whatever, it should arrive tomorrow or so.

Nothing wrong with my original brick, mainly wanted one that ran a bit cooler.
post #2130 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukaav View Post

You will need a hardware calibrator to do this properly.


Yes "Proberly", but you can make it 300% better then stock calibration, just with your eyes!

- Go to Change Screen Resolution > Advanced > Color Management and open Color Managment
- Go to Advanced tap
- Press Calibrate Screen

Ajust gamma, and turn down green and blue, till you are satisfied.
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