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Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club - Page 214

post #2131 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phenrick View Post

I bought a Catleap last week because of the rave reviews it was getting and just received it yesterday from Red-cap. I was pleasantly surprised to see no dead pixels, but as soon as I saw a bright image on the monitor I noticed it has a brightness gradient.
I have a same problem and I know workaround. The controller board is designed unreasonable, but you may fix it by soldering one resistor. Please wait, I will upload instruction soon.
Edited by DASM - 4/4/12 at 12:55am
post #2132 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by bQvle View Post

Yes "Proberly", but you can make it 300% better then stock calibration, just with your eyes!

It will be still not calibrated, just in a different way.

Your eyes adapt quickly to what they see and your brain tends to ignore the way-off color temperature after a while - making a properly calibrated screen look very strange at first (until your eyes and brain adapt again).
Because of that it is very hard to get something that is even remotely close to what it should be just by the "eye calibration".
Edited by lukaav - 4/4/12 at 12:55am
post #2133 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJesus View Post

I know I've seen it somewhere in the other thread before, I think someone mentioned it may be due to a loose cable inside the monitor. The buzzing is also fixed by opening the monitor and putting some stuff on it, there is a guide to do it by CharlesK I believe.

No, it is because design is very sensitive to components accuracy.
post #2134 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phenrick View Post

I bought a Catleap last week because of the rave reviews it was getting and just received it yesterday from Red-cap. I was pleasantly surprised to see no dead pixels, but as soon as I saw a bright image on the monitor I noticed it has a brightness gradient. I do a lot of word processing with a mostly white screen and it's starting to annoy the hell out of me. The left half of the screen is significantly brighter than the right half! The monitor also has a faint buzzing sound from the chokes. Its a 2C version Q270 with speakers (no glass).
Has anyone else had this problem? I read probably 100 pages of threads and never heard of banding this severe. I'm in the process of trying to get some kind of refund from Red-cap for this mad.gif

Someone had the same problem here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/1400_40#post_16795542 (I don't know if he solved it though)

For Fixing the buzzing sound, here is a little tutorial :
Quote:
If your monotor is buzzing, the culprit is likely to be a choke, these components vibrate when they operate, and create the buzzing sound.
One way to silence them is to cover them with glue (epoxy or hot glue) so they can't vibrate anymore.

It's harmless for these components, actually it's a technique widely used, so don't worry about it .

In theses Koreans monitors there is 2 chokes that may buzz (it's not systematic), they are situated on the panel PCB, the one covered by the metal hood.

(You can find how to disassemble the catleap in the catleap club FP, here for the shimian)

193


Cover them with glue (epoxy or hot glue), try to make the glue get in the coil of wire for a better result.
post #2135 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukaav View Post

It will be still not calibrated, just in a different way.
Your eyes adapt quickly to what they see and your brain tends to ignore the way-off color temperature after a while - making a properly calibrated screen look very strange at first (until your eyes and brain adapt again).
Because of that it is very hard to get something that is even remotely close to what it should be just by the "eye calibration".

Correct, but it will still look alot better then the factory green tint! I will be calibrated to your eyes!
Its easier when you have 2 monitors side by side for comparison!

I had to re-calibrate back and forth, between my monitors.

First "left" was ugly compared to "right" which i "thought" looked perfect! (brain told me it was perfect)

Then i calibrated "left", then "right" looked ugly.. and so on. (now brain told me left was perfect).

Then calibrated right again.

Now they both look very natural to me, (maybe not correct according to some ISF / 65k standards).
but still, important part is that it look natual! out of the box is really, way off!

So people who dont have the "propper" equipment should still go ahead with this!
Edited by bQvle - 4/4/12 at 1:32am
post #2136 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScribbyDaGreat View Post


I know people will hate to hear my opinion, but more and more this leads me to believe these monitors are being pieced together with whatever parts and extras manufacturers can find.  This 190-240v brick is an entirely new wrinkle and totally worthless in the US and Canada as it won't be supported.  This is like the Shimian bricks that are like 220-240v only.  

Again, these all appear to be grab bag part monitors.  While the panels are great, the PCBs and supporting hardware are whatever comes out of the bin at the end of the line.  Too many variances monitor to monitor for me to think these are all meeting a specific standard or spec.  This also explains why we can by a monitor for $400 less than what is sold here in the US.

I completely agree. I think they're leftover parts from big (translation Apple or Dell) manufacturing contracts. It's really the luck of the draw. Most of us got lucky; I know I did. I would really hate to have had, for example, one with AG coating and one without.
post #2137 of 11297
hey guys,

can someone please help me.
I just have one question.
Does this monitor works with an Macbook Pro Mid2010 (Nvidia GT330M) and a active miniDisplay Port to Dual DVI- Adapter?

Thank you.
Edited by mydsmbr - 4/4/12 at 4:11am
post #2138 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScribbyDaGreat View Post


I know people will hate to hear my opinion, but more and more this leads me to believe these monitors are being pieced together with whatever parts and extras manufacturers can find.  This 190-240v brick is an entirely new wrinkle and totally worthless in the US and Canada as it won't be supported.  This is like the Shimian bricks that are like 220-240v only.  

Again, these all appear to be grab bag part monitors.  While the panels are great, the PCBs and supporting hardware are whatever comes out of the bin at the end of the line.  Too many variances monitor to monitor for me to think these are all meeting a specific standard or spec.  This also explains why we can by a monitor for $400 less than what is sold here in the US.

Thanks for your reply scribby and I agree with you. I'm searching for a cost effective replacement to avoid that gouging idiot on ebay. I'll post whatever options I find on here and PM you as well.
post #2139 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by bQvle View Post

Yes "Proberly", but you can make it 300% better then stock calibration, just with your eyes!
- Go to Change Screen Resolution > Advanced > Color Management and open Color Managment
- Go to Advanced tap
- Press Calibrate Screen
Ajust gamma, and turn down green and blue, till you are satisfied.

You can read Korean to navigate like this? Unless this is through my pc settings. I'm still waiting on my pc.
post #2140 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by darrenb123 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by bQvle View Post

Yes "Proberly", but you can make it 300% better then stock calibration, just with your eyes!
- Go to Change Screen Resolution > Advanced > Color Management and open Color Managment
- Go to Advanced tap
- Press Calibrate Screen
Ajust gamma, and turn down green and blue, till you are satisfied.

You can read Korean to navigate like this? Unless this is through my pc settings. I'm still waiting on my pc.

It's via the PC. These monitors don't have an OSD (well the cheap ones don't).
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom II X4 830 Biostar TA990FXE XFX GeForce 9500 GT (PV-T95G-ZAFG) G Skill F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
WDC WD10 01FALS-42K1B0 Samsung SH-222BB (CDDVDW ) Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo Windows 7 Professional 64 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G11 Ultra XF500BK (500 watt ATX) What's a case? MadCATZ Cyborg M.M.O. 7 
Audio
SPDIF out to Onkyo HTR520 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom II X4 830 Biostar TA990FXE XFX GeForce 9500 GT (PV-T95G-ZAFG) G Skill F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
WDC WD10 01FALS-42K1B0 Samsung SH-222BB (CDDVDW ) Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo Windows 7 Professional 64 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G11 Ultra XF500BK (500 watt ATX) What's a case? MadCATZ Cyborg M.M.O. 7 
Audio
SPDIF out to Onkyo HTR520 
  hide details  
Reply
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