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Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club - Page 281

post #2801 of 11297
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by p33k View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScribbyDaGreat View Post


Of all my issues with sourcing the chips for the PCBs I have yet to come across cables. You may have to become an electrician or contact your seller and see if he can source the part for you.  What is plugged into the small connector?  Is that a 2C?  Haven't seen a model with that plug in before.
 

Looks like the same as mine... You can see where it plugs into the PCB on my photos http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2690#post_16966916


Thanks for the reference - I remember that post now!  

 

 

   
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post #2802 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScribbyDaGreat View Post


Of all my issues with sourcing the chips for the PCBs I have yet to come across cables. You may have to become an electrician or contact your seller and see if he can source the part for you.  What is plugged into the small connector?  Is that a 2C?  Haven't seen a model with that plug in before.


Darn, you were my one hope. You had mentioned before that you had a manufacturing contact. Any chance you could pass that on, or contact them on my behalf about the cable? Honestly this thing is too small for me to do anything with. Here is another pict of the board and connectors: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
700

Also, does your PCB board you're planning on selling come with cables? By the sound of your last post, it doesn't, but I thought I'd ask anyway.
Edited by Aquineas - 4/15/12 at 7:08pm
post #2803 of 11297
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquineas View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScribbyDaGreat View Post


Of all my issues with sourcing the chips for the PCBs I have yet to come across cables. You may have to become an electrician or contact your seller and see if he can source the part for you.  What is plugged into the small connector?  Is that a 2C?  Haven't seen a model with that plug in before.
 

Darn, you were my one hope. You had mentioned before that you had a manufacturing contact. Any chance you could pass that on, or contact them on my behalf about the cable? Honestly this thing is too small for me to do anything with. Here is another pict of the board and connectors: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
 
Also, does your PCB board you're planning on selling come with cables? By the sound of your last post, it doesn't, but I thought I'd ask anyway.


I will work on the cables once I can get the PCBs started.  Right now, I have no sources for cables (especially for anything other than the 2Bs - my main focus for the last month.)  Email your seller and see what they can do for you - they may have a contact (at least they speak the language!)

 

The PCBs will be a complete setup or at the very least a pinout (one has been done here somewhere) and a parts list that will require people to make the cables themselves.  Honestly, making the cables would be easy if I (or someone else if they beat me to it) can source the correct connectors, just would take a person a little time to do them.

 

Sending the PCBs out tomorrow to begin the process - keep your fingers crossed they can source the LG chip or an equivalent.

 

 

   
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post #2804 of 11297
Is anyone running their Catleaps without the bezel? I was planning to run in surround without a bezel and I thought they would work out alright, but in the recent pictures I notice there is a PCB mounted inside the back bezel? Anyhow if anyone that has a Catleap and has taken them apart multiple times can shed some light on how they would play out without the bezel would be appreciated. Thanks!!
post #2805 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adhunt View Post

Hey, just wondering if my (previously problem free) monitor might have an issue?

I have my computer set to put my monitors on standby after half an hour, but during the day I turn the monitors off manually and leave the computer running.

When I got home today I turned on the monitor first (before moving the mouse to get it out of monitor standby). The screen then showed something like when you had no reception on an old analogue tv - but my secondary monitor showed the desktop as it should. I turned the monitor off and on again and it worked perfectly.

Any ideas??

No thoughts? It's happened again - seems to happen if you turn the monitor on before moving the mouse to get windows to tell the monitors to come off standby (perhaps because the monitor doesn't have a standby screen)?
post #2806 of 11297
Anyone had any luck just showing up to a Fedex facility to pick up a package? I called the generic 1-800 number and they said "SORRY, you can't" but a local Fedex store employee said "Just show up to the sorting facility.."

I am not desperate to try out my Catleap, I promise thumb.gif
post #2807 of 11297
I purchased a tempered glass model from ITPlus.kr via minarinshop as mentioned in an earlier post, it cost about $430 all said and done:
http://www.itplus.kr/shopuser/goods/productView.html?largeno=&middleno=&smallno=&code=ae0f27b1e3

It was indeed a model 2B, although the LCD had a few defects (doesn't look like dead pixels, looks more like dust or clouding or something).
On the other hand I already have a model 2C with a perfect pixel panel so I went ahead and swapped the board electronics, and it works perfectly.
I would suggest anyone doing disassembly to be very careful with the ribbon cables coming out of the panel, I accidentally broke off one of the
connectors and two of the wires on the ribbon came clean off, luckily a little work with the soldering station and it works fine again.

Mine isnt able to reach 120hz, but 96hz is fine. I have another 2B that I'll be testing later. I'm using a GTX 680 and the manual timings in the top post.
Edited by alamone - 4/15/12 at 9:49pm
post #2808 of 11297
Regarding without the bezel, you can do it but it doesn't really help to shave off much of the gap between monitors,
the panel is screwed into the plastic back bezel using L-shaped steel bars which are then screwed into the LCD panel,
the plastic bezel barely goes around these so you would be saving just a few mm.
post #2809 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adhunt View Post

No thoughts? It's happened again - seems to happen if you turn the monitor on before moving the mouse to get windows to tell the monitors to come off standby (perhaps because the monitor doesn't have a standby screen)?

I had the exact same thing you described happen to my monitor a couple of days ago. I had it running and since I had to step away for a moment I turned if off without putting my system in sleep/standby.10 minutes later I turn the monitor back on and all I see on the screen is the old "analog garbled screen" All I did was power it off then on again and the picture came back just fine.
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post #2810 of 11297
Quote:
Originally Posted by alamone View Post

I purchased a tempered glass model from ITPlus.kr via minarinshop as mentioned in an earlier post, it cost about $430 all said and done:
http://www.itplus.kr/shopuser/goods/productView.html?largeno=&middleno=&smallno=&code=ae0f27b1e3
It was indeed a model 2B, although the LCD had a few defects (doesn't look like dead pixels, looks more like dust or clouding or something).
On the other hand I already have a model 2C with a perfect pixel panel so I went ahead and swapped the board electronics, and it works perfectly.
I would suggest anyone doing disassembly to be very careful with the ribbon cables coming out of the panel, I accidentally broke off one of the
connectors and two of the wires on the ribbon came clean off, luckily a little work with the soldering station and it works fine again.
Mine isnt able to reach 120hz, but 96hz is fine. I have another 2B that I'll be testing later. I'm using a GTX 680 and the manual timings in the top post.

Did they advertise it as a 2b model or did you just luck out? As for the 96hz limit, what's happening when you go higher? Have you tried leaving the timings to Automatic to see what happens? Because others with the GTX 680 other than myself have gotten up to 117hz.
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