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Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club - Page 352

post #3511 of 10798
Ordered and got my monitor about a month ago. The 27" SE i believe. zero dead pixels, but mine won't go past 65Hz frown.gif Was really hoping for 90+ Hz. Got mine from Green-Sum.
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post #3512 of 10798
I think there was a different panel on the 2C's than the 2B's right? They had different model numbers I believe but I can't find it with the amount of posts in here. Can someone tell me what it is please. I'm wondering if the panel matters between the two cause I need to order another one, I have the pcb's already. The OC panel is lm270wq1 (sd) (e3), can someone chime in on the model for 2C's please. I'm contemplating just ordering another 27" monitor and swapping the pcb's instead of ordering the panel alone cause its only about $50 more on ebay, but I need to make sure the 2c and 2d panel can handle overclock pcb's and that they are also quality panels like the oc panels.

Also, if anyone knows a cheap way to source the panel itself without all the pcb's and backlighting/frame/films for cheap let me know.

As of now I either order a lm270wq1 for 300 on ebay or order another Korean 27" IPS ($340) to do the pcb swap. Let me know if you have any other suggestions on what I could do. There may be a cheaper way to figure this out.
Edited by stryker7314 - 4/30/12 at 9:41pm
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post #3513 of 10798
Debating buying one!
Edited by Tulion - 4/30/12 at 9:45pm
post #3514 of 10798
If memory serves, only the 2b models of the Catleap can be overclocked. all other models don't.
post #3515 of 10798
Quote:
Originally Posted by brzyski75 View Post

@ Samurai - I used dcsamsungmall. I live in Chicago. Ordered last Tuesday at 8pm cst. Received on Friday at noon. No dead pixels. I did however get the non-oc version.
I got my 3M stand today. $40 USD on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Easy-Adjust-Monitor-Stand-MS110MB/dp/B0013CD0DI
Some dis-assembly notes:
1. Total time was about 30 mins.
2. It would have been ideal to have left the front screen protector that came on the monitor on until I finished the installation. If you can't do this, maybe consider taping something over the screen to avoid scratching it. I did in on my bed but still put a bunch of finger prints on it. No scratches though, but it would be easy to scratch I think.
3. I used a 1 1/2" PLASTIC putty knife to remove the bezel. It was super easy and zero chance of marring the bezel. If you use a straight edged screw driver, you will likely mar the bezel. Go to a hardware store and get a plastic putty knife. Also, with the putty knife, you don't need to search out each clip. Once you get the first one popped you can slide it all the way around and they will all pop. They are 99 cents. Don't be lazy and assume a screwdriver will be fine.
4. I did not unplug the wired connections inside. I thought about it for a minute but they look pretty fragile. You can get the stand out easily without unplugging anything. If you go this route, you might need someone to help hold up the panel. Again, I really would advise unplugging the connectors inside. If the connector comes apart (who hasn't had this happen to them before?) you are screwed. There is no need to remove these to remove the stand.
5. Once I had the stand attached, I was surprised at how flimsy the connection to the stand was. I was expecting rock-solid but it is not a great connection. Seems like a plastic back plate. Once I got it on my desk it seems fine though.
3M Mount Specifics:
6. If you are buying the 3M mount, please be aware that it will not display in portrait mode unless the screen is tilted upwards. It won't clear the base.
7. The 3M stand will allow you to lower the Catleap all the way to the base of the stand. I was worried that the minimum height was going to be too high, but it is not. 3/4" probably.
8. The negative tilt adjustment is really bad but it will tilt down slightly. All in all a great stand. Mine ended up being pre-tensioned to the proper weight for the Catleap.
Anyway, whoever is in charge of this club, consider revising the stand removal instructions. Someone is going to break a connector unplugging wires. No need to risk it. Also, the plastic putty knife worked really well.

Thank you so much for these recommendations. Whenever I got my Catleap open I saw one fragile ribbon cable and my first reaction was to avoid messing with it at all costs. I was able to get the back arch and original stand removed by myself without unhooking any of the fragile cables inside. Don't get me wrong, if I could have had another hand it would have been nice because holding the panel up with one hand and undoing the screws and bolts wasn't easy.

Anyways, I wanted to post up in response to brzyski75's information and suggestions - This method of removal works if you are afraid of damaging the fragile cables inside your Catleap. I wanted to confirm this and I'm not saying it is the most efficient way but it is totally doable for those scared of unhooking the cables.

I purchased an Ergotron Neoflex stand and it has worked out perfect for this display. I'd suggest adding some washers to the VESA mount holes when you apply a new stand. I actually used the washers that were inside the Catleap between the 10mm bolts for the original stand - I didn't even have to go to the hardware store biggrin.gif

Here are some photos -

I tilted the panel up on the bottom and top to get the screws out holding the original stand and arch.

S6301781.jpg
^I suggest having the monitor on the backside when taking the bezel off. This is one thing that is not mentioned in the guide to take the stand off.

S6301782.jpg
^Man I need to clean the front grills on my case.
    
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post #3516 of 10798
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsv883 View Post

If memory serves, only the 2b models of the Catleap can be overclocked. all other models don't.

/shrug oh well, buying it anyway - guess I'll be looking at one of those PCB's in a few weeks = P
post #3517 of 10798
Thread Starter 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by stryker7314 View Post

I think there was a different panel on the 2C's than the 2B's right? They had different model numbers I believe but I can't find it with the amount of posts in here. Can someone tell me what it is please. I'm wondering if the panel matters between the two cause I need to order another one, I have the pcb's already. The OC panel is lm270wq1 (sd) (e3), can someone chime in on the model for 2C's please. I'm contemplating just ordering another 27" monitor and swapping the pcb's instead of ordering the panel alone cause its only about $50 more on ebay, but I need to make sure the 2c and 2d panel can handle overclock pcb's and that they are also quality panels like the oc panels.

Also, if anyone knows a cheap way to source the panel itself without all the pcb's and backlighting/frame/films for cheap let me know.

As of now I either order a lm270wq1 for 300 on ebay or order another Korean 27" IPS ($340) to do the pcb swap. Let me know if you have any other suggestions on what I could do. There may be a cheaper way to figure this out.

 

Have you read the OP?  I only ask since I did a complete swap like you are suggesting and it's posted there.  Sigh.

 

AWESOME - the moderators deleted that bit from the OP!  So, yes you can swap OC PCBs with any of these versions and it will work.  I had great pictures and everything - gotta love censorship.

   
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post #3518 of 10798
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScribbyDaGreat View Post



Have you read the OP?  I only ask since I did a complete swap like you are suggesting and it's posted there.  Sigh.

AWESOME - the moderators deleted that bit from the OP!  So, yes you can swap OC PCBs with any of these versions and it will work.  I had great pictures and everything - gotta love censorship.

No it's cool. I think it's WW2 Concentration Camp Re-Enactment month starting the 1st of May. They're just getting into the spirit.
post #3519 of 10798
Well I guess online forums are not recession proof either.
post #3520 of 10798
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScribbyDaGreat View Post



Have you read the OP?  I only ask since I did a complete swap like you are suggesting and it's posted there.  Sigh.

AWESOME - the moderators deleted that bit from the OP!  So, yes you can swap OC PCBs with any of these versions and it will work.  I had great pictures and everything - gotta love censorship.

Why would the moderators delete that information? I don't get it?!
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