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Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club - Page 379

post #3781 of 11298
Anyone wanting help with monitor issues must report several things:

1. What type of GPU do you have installed?
2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?
3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?
4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?
4. Tried any of the other things listed above?

The more detail we have the better we can help troubleshoot the problem.


Hey guys, I've had my Catleap for about a month now and I'm having a problem. I looked at the troubleshooting section in the OP and the only cases it talks about are either a red light, or a flashing green light. When I encounter the problem, the light is solid green.

DESCRIPTION:
Monitor is fine, but after a couple days (really varies, but lately the time inbetween has grown shorter) the screen fades to black. The light is still solid green. I turn the monitor off and back on, and everything is okay anywhere from a couple seconds to a couple minutes, and the screen fades to black again. I got a new DVI cable and the same thing happens. I thought (and still kind of think) that it might be a bad power supply. The reason I'm leaning towards it being a power supply problem is because if I unplug the AC adapter and let it sit for about a day, the monitor works fine for a day or two before the problems come back. I bought one off of ebay with the same output voltage and current (24V 5A). I'm in the US so my socket supplies 110V. The brick I bought is meant specifically for 110V input voltage. When I plug the new power supply in, it makes a shock sound and shuts off immediately, so I'm guessing the brick I bought is crud (only cost $25). My main priority is getting this thing working again, so if I need to spend $100+ or whatever on a high quality supply, that is fine with me. I understand the no-ebay-link policy, so if you know of a good power supply that will work with a Catleap, feel free to PM me.


The questions I'm to answer:

1. What type of GPU do you have installed?
GTX 580 SLI

2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?
Latest WHQL Nvidia drivers. Problem persists after clean install.

3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?
I had the problem with the cable that came with the monitor, so I purchased a new Dual-Link cable and the same problem occurs.

4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?
Unplugged all other monitors, tried all 4 DVI ports.

Thanks to those of you who spent the time to read this wall of text smile.gif
 
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post #3782 of 11298
my catleap came about 20 minutes ago and i ordered it 2 days ago, came faster than i thought it would. i underestimated how big a 27 inch monitor would be laugher.gif i need a bigger desk now.
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post #3783 of 11298
I need someone with a non-680 card to test a driver at 120Hz on 2A/2B models, PM me please.
     
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post #3784 of 11298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by seg//fault View Post

The more detail we have the better we can help troubleshoot the problem.
Hey guys, I've had my Catleap for about a month now and I'm having a problem. I looked at the troubleshooting section in the OP and the only cases it talks about are either a red light, or a flashing green light. When I encounter the problem, the light is solid green.
DESCRIPTION:
Monitor is fine, but after a couple days (really varies, but lately the time inbetween has grown shorter) the screen fades to black. The light is still solid green. I turn the monitor off and back on, and everything is okay anywhere from a couple seconds to a couple minutes, and the screen fades to black again. I got a new DVI cable and the same thing happens. I thought (and still kind of think) that it might be a bad power supply. The reason I'm leaning towards it being a power supply problem is because if I unplug the AC adapter and let it sit for about a day, the monitor works fine for a day or two before the problems come back. I bought one off of ebay with the same output voltage and current (24V 5A). I'm in the US so my socket supplies 110V. The brick I bought is meant specifically for 110V input voltage. When I plug the new power supply in, it makes a shock sound and shuts off immediately, so I'm guessing the brick I bought is crud (only cost $25). My main priority is getting this thing working again, so if I need to spend $100+ or whatever on a high quality supply, that is fine with me. I understand the no-ebay-link policy, so if you know of a good power supply that will work with a Catleap, feel free to PM me.
The questions I'm to answer:
1. What type of GPU do you have installed?
GTX 580 SLI
2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?
Latest WHQL Nvidia drivers. Problem persists after clean install.
3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?
I had the problem with the cable that came with the monitor, so I purchased a new Dual-Link cable and the same problem occurs.
4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?
Unplugged all other monitors, tried all 4 DVI ports.
Thanks to those of you who spent the time to read this wall of text smile.gif

 

Sounds to me like a power brick issue from what you described.  Do you have a voltmeter to run a quick test?  With a "cool" rested brick what is the voltage coming out of it?  Immediately after you get the screen issue (or as close in time as possible), what is the voltage?  If you get a drop then you know it's the culprit.

 

A silly question, but I just gotta ask - what's your power settings like?  No way your going to a dark screen saver correct (I ask since someone posted their monitor didn't work, but failed to press the ON button - complained of only getting a red light.)

 

Post back!

   
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The Cavern
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post #3785 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScribbyDaGreat View Post

Sounds to me like a power brick issue from what you described.  Do you have a voltmeter to run a quick test?  With a "cool" rested brick what is the voltage coming out of it?  Immediately after you get the screen issue (or as close in time as possible), what is the voltage?  If you get a drop then you know it's the culprit.

I do have a voltmeter (somewhere), and can check the voltage like you said, not quite sure which of the 4 pins to check... Any resource to find out how to check it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScribbyDaGreat View Post

A silly question, but I just gotta ask - what's your power settings like?  No way your going to a dark screen saver correct (I ask since someone posted their monitor didn't work, but failed to press the ON button - complained of only getting a red light.)

Post back!

Hah! No, it happens even when I'm actively moving the mouse around or typing. My power settings are always on, no screensaver anyways. The "fade to black" I'm getting isn't quite even like a screensaver would be. It's sort of hard to describe, as it happens within a matter of a second, but as it's fading there's almost like a grid-like appearance as it goes to a blank screen. The "grid" so to speak is a much finer (perhaps 1 or 2 pixel-width) as compared to a typical DVI related problem, which how I'd describe it, is more of a "stripe" than a line.
 
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post #3786 of 11298
Thread Starter 

I believe on the four pin it is POS NEG on each side.  So top neg, bottom pos as an example.  Just try left side top pos bottom neg then right side of the pins.  If bad readings change it up.  You won't hurt anything trying for the correct pins.  I saw a pin out somewhere, but cannot find it now that it is needed of course.

   
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post #3787 of 11298
Hmm OK. Got the multimeter out. Set it to 200V DC, since the next lowest threshold is 20V. Below is a representation of the pinout, with the "arrow" side up...

1-bigspace-2
--3-lilspc-4-

So testing the original adapter, the only combination that didn't give a reading of 0V or a shower of sparks (hehe) was connecting the leads to pins 1 and 2, as well as 3 and 4. It read 24.5 V (good enough for an idle brick). I've plugged it in, and the monitor is currently working. This is probably because I left the brick unplugged for a couple hours now. I'll wait till it shuts off and take another reading.

In the mean-time, I checked the new brick I bought off ebay. Even though it uses the SAME plug as the original brick (it slid right in the outlet on the monitor) the pins that gave the proper voltage readings was when I connected the leads with pins 1-3 and 2-4. I do not know why someone would make a power brick with the same plug but a different pinout, but that explains why the new one is shutting off as soon as I plug it in.

So, that means that the original brick could still be bad, I just need to find a "good" brick that uses the same pinout.... Man this is frustrating!

EDIT - the pinout drawing was triggering the forum's formatting.
EDIT EDIT - monitor crapped out. measured the Voltage, still 24.5V, but I wonder if it "recuperated" in the time it took to remove the plug and place the leads (about 10-15 secs). Also of note, the plug was quite warm. The brick is insanely hot as well. I am going to see what I can do about getting the proper pins into the proper slots on the new brick and trying that.
Edited by seg//fault - 5/10/12 at 3:26pm
 
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post #3788 of 11298
Scribby, bro, I figured it out! And anyone else who is having power brick problems, listen up! smile.gif I really wish we could still post eBay links because this new brick cost me just 25 bucks. So like in my above post, the pinout was offset. All I did was cut off the connector on the new brick as well as the connector on the old brick. There's two wires inside the outer rubber insulation, on both supplies. (The brick that comes with the monitor has the bare wire surrounding the the inner insulated wire, so when stripping the outer coating off, take great care!). I soldered the bare wire coming from the new brick to the bare wire coming from the OLD connector, and did the same for the inner, insulated wires. Plugged the son of a gun in, and I've been basking in IPS glory for the past 2 hours!

Of course, I'll have to keep it on for a longer time just to confirm that it's fixed, but right now the new brick is staying nice and cool!

P.S. ScribbyDaGreat - Thanks for starting and taking care of this thread. It's basically the mecca of information about these great monitors, and I know you've been catching flak from the mods lately, but keep up the awesome work! :-D
 
Quasimodo
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Quasimodo
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2x Yamakasi Catleaps CM Storm Quickfire Rapid Red Corsair HX650 BitFenix Prodigy, Arctic White 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
SteelSeries Sensei Icemat  ODAC to Fiio E9 to Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro 250ohm 2x KRK Rokit 6 Near-field monitors 
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post #3789 of 11298
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by seg//fault View Post

Scribby, bro, I figured it out! And anyone else who is having power brick problems, listen up! smile.gif I really wish we could still post eBay links because this new brick cost me just 25 bucks. So like in my above post, the pinout was offset. All I did was cut off the connector on the new brick as well as the connector on the old brick. There's two wires inside the outer rubber insulation, on both supplies. (The brick that comes with the monitor has the bare wire surrounding the the inner insulated wire, so when stripping the outer coating off, take great care!). I soldered the bare wire coming from the new brick to the bare wire coming from the OLD connector, and did the same for the inner, insulated wires. Plugged the son of a gun in, and I've been basking in IPS glory for the past 2 hours!
Of course, I'll have to keep it on for a longer time just to confirm that it's fixed, but right now the new brick is staying nice and cool!
P.S. ScribbyDaGreat - Thanks for starting and taking care of this thread. It's basically the mecca of information about these great monitors, and I know you've been catching flak from the mods lately, but keep up the awesome work! :-D

 

So glad to hear you made it work!  That's a bit strange on the new brick though.  We have had more than a few people purchase that one off of ebay (I know the one I am guessing) and it worked first time.  Wonder if, at $25, the QC on the wiring missed yours so it was wired incorrectly!  But alls well the ends well, right?  Hopefully that is the long-term solution to your monitor ills.

 

Post back so we know you are still in pixel heaven!

   
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The Cavern
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post #3790 of 11298
Hey guys, Ive had my monitor for about a week now.

Today i went and got a longer Dual link DVI cable (10ft) and when i plugged it in and turned on the pc and a bunch of colorful vertical lines appeared and the screen didn't show anything after that. So I tried the original DVI cable and it worked, so i went back to the 10ft one and its just blank and the green light keeps blinking. I went back to the original cable and now same issue. green light is just blinking.

1. What type of GPU do you have installed? GTX480

2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)? latest nvidia drivers

3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor? tried both new and old

4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU? Yes only have 1 monitor

4. Tried any of the other things listed above? I opened to monitor to find any loose connections but they are are connected

Any support will be greatly appreciated

I think its the PCB? Is there a place i can buy a new one?

I desperately want this fixed, i CANT go back to my 1680x1050 22inch monitor.
Edited by emin911 - 5/10/12 at 6:40pm
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Dark Knight
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