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Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club - Page 523

post #5221 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charly03 View Post

Hi everybody, first thank you for sharing, it has been helpful on my ordering of this YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27"

I'm trying to determine if I got a DOA or if is a GPU compatibility issue.

I'm having some problems (no image / black screen), I want to use this monitor for general use (not gaming ),
my GPU is a PNY GeForce GT 430
the power supply LED is blinking Green when connected to the monitor
the monitor LED power indicator is flashing red/orange (don't matter if is connected to the GPU or NOT
clicking the power on the monitor don't change anything.

IF I unplug the power cord from the monitor I get constant green on the power supply.

the GPU works with my old monitor (ASUS 23" 1920x1080)

I contacted the vendor (ebay pallascospi ) and he indicate that it can be a GPU not compatible ,

Can you clarify what is the normal status light condition for the power supply and monitor ?

Do you think is a GPU compatibility issue ?

IF yes do you think this card will do it
ZOTAC ZT-40708-10L GeForce GT 440 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130788

Ones again thank you for your feedback and help
Charly03
Red on the monitor LED indicates a "check power adapter" the power adapter should be solid green. If you had a signal problem the LEDs would both be different than you report. Do you have another "approved" GPU you can connect it to just to show you've ticked that box? The GPU incompatibility seems to be the go-to answer for sellers of these monitors.
post #5222 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by djriful View Post

You cannot run BF3 at 1440p at high with that card in large maps. Even the 6970 is barely at it - I had to buy a second to CFX it to run BF3 mid 50FPS on high. (edited: even without AA)
Nevertheless, GTX680 now. It runs anything at 1440p.
Quote:
Originally Posted by djriful View Post

You cannot run BF3 at 1440p at high with that card in large maps. Even the 6970 is barely at it - I had to buy a second to CFX it to run BF3 mid 50FPS on high. (edited: even without AA)
Nevertheless, GTX680 now. It runs anything at 1440p.
Well i think the 1gb 460s are just a little bit slower then the 6870s so hopefully ill be able to get playable framrates on high because it will be a while before i can afford a new card. Personally i wouldnt mind waiting for a card like a 760 to come around in another year or so. So i hope my cards can handle this res if i buy the catleap
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The Shogun
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post #5223 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by rollOver View Post

Red on the monitor LED indicates a "check power adapter" the power adapter should be solid green. If you had a signal problem the LEDs would both be different than you report. Do you have another "approved" GPU you can connect it to just to show you've ticked that box? The GPU incompatibility seems to be the go-to answer for sellers of these monitors.
Thank you rollOver for your reply, base on your suggestion (RED on the Monitor LED indicate "check power adapter",

I open the power brick and check the voltage on the board of the power supply output (where should be getting around 24V and I'm getting 1.5 V and 0 V with the power connector is plug in into the monitor.

so this look like the power brick is not working properly.

Do you know where I can get a power supply that is compatible with this monitor locally in the US ?

I will contact the vendor and ask them to send a new one but will be a good test to get one local

much appreciated your help

Charly03
post #5224 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by rexfly62 View Post

I've had the Catleap ordered from Greensum for 2 weeks already. No bad pixels but have some light bleed at the corners. It came with a Loadus 190-220v power adapter but it works fine.
Every time I use the monitor after 5-10 minutes, it gets fairly warm and start buzzing (loud white noise) at high frequencies pretty badly, especially on pages with mostly white stuff on it (I heard it requires more power to generate the lighter colors?). I've combed through forums about the buzzing problem at lengths.
So far, I've taken apart the monitor 3 times already and first applied hot glue to the two 220 chokes. That glue didn't work so I tried some epoxy. Epoxy didn't do anything either. I'm at the point where I am thinking of opening up the monitor while having it connected to hear where exactly the buzzing is coming from. It's difficult due to the short cabling inside so I can't stick my ear into the opening. I see a couple other chokes on the two boards and wonder if I should just epoxy all the chokes.
Has anyone else has a similar problem when gluing the 220 chokes didn't stop the buzzing? Thanks
When I turn my computer on I get a loud white noise coming through my Logitech Speakers, I have to turn the volume down to half way. I opened the power box (Loadus) up and when I press near the black ground wire the noise goes away, so I thought I would re-colder the joint but noise still there. I have contacted Greensum and he is sending a new power brick but I haven't got much faith in these boards so I was wondering where I could get a better quality power brick from.
post #5225 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by rpps View Post

When I turn my computer on I get a loud white noise coming through my Logitech Speakers, I have to turn the volume down to half way. I opened the power box (Loadus) up and when I press near the black ground wire the noise goes away, so I thought I would re-colder the joint but noise still there. I have contacted Greensum and he is sending a new power brick but I haven't got much faith in these boards so I was wondering where I could get a better quality power brick from.

I think that's a different problem than mine but you can check out this post for information on power bricks http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/4170#post_17545571

I haven't seen anyone actually buying and trying them out to validate compatibility so be careful. On the other note, is he sending you the same Loadus power brick or an US compatible one?
post #5226 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charly03 View Post

Thank you rollOver for your reply, base on your suggestion (RED on the Monitor LED indicate "check power adapter",
I open the power brick and check the voltage on the board of the power supply output (where should be getting around 24V and I'm getting 1.5 V and 0 V with the power connector is plug in into the monitor.
so this look like the power brick is not working properly.
Do you know where I can get a power supply that is compatible with this monitor locally in the US ?
I will contact the vendor and ask them to send a new one but will be a good test to get one local
much appreciated your help
Charly03
I can tell you what I plan to do should my brick fail, I do not advise it for anyone else! Take a computer supply (most of us have a few spares) find one with two PCI-E legs (those that supply your GPU). Each one has two 12v legs which combined in series (not parallel, very important) will produce 24v at the lowest of the two rated amperages. The LoadUS specs two 24v legs at 5amps each so make sure you match this amperage. That gives you a very reliable temporary supply until the seller sends you a new one.
post #5227 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by rollOver View Post

I can tell you what I plan to do should my brick fail, I do not advise it for anyone else! Take a computer supply (most of us have a few spares) find one with two PCI-E legs (those that supply your GPU). Each one has two 12v legs which combined in series (not parallel, very important) will produce 24v at the lowest of the two rated amperages. The LoadUS specs two 24v legs at 5amps each so make sure you match this amperage. That gives you a very reliable temporary supply until the seller sends you a new one.

Bah, just run a 220V line to your computer smile.gif
 
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Current PC - 550D
(27 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 3570k Asrock Z77E Gigabyte 7970 G Skill RipJaws X 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
Seagate Green Intel 320 SSD XSPC Raystorm Koolance 7970 Waterblock 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC 1650RPM Fan Alphacool XT45 Laing DDC Bitspower 80mm Reservoir 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
3/8" Copper Tubing Push-to-fit Connectors Bitspower Fittings Tygon Black Tubing 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 8 Pro Viewsonic VP2770 LED Catleap Coolermaster Storm 
PowerCaseMouseOther
Seasonic 660XP2 Case Labs S3 Logitech G500 MDPC-X Sleeving 
OtherOther
Lamptron FC5 Bitspower Temperature Probes 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel 4820k Asus Rampage Gene IV MSI GTX 970 Gaming MSI GTX 970 Gaming 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Mushkin Radioactive Intel 320 Seagate Green Laing DDC Pump 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC Acrylic DDC Top 2x Alphacool XT45 240mm XSPC Fans Bitspower Silver Comp Fittings 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Tygon Black Tubing Bitspower Reservoir XSPC Raystorm EK FC-Titan Waterblock 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 7 64 bit Viewsonic VP2770-LED Yamakasi Catleap  Coolermaster Storm Mechanical 
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post #5228 of 11298
So whats this connection like a round/pin style (like a laptop) ?
post #5229 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by rexfly62 View Post

I think that's a different problem than mine but you can check out this post for information on power bricks http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/4170#post_17545571
I haven't seen anyone actually buying and trying them out to validate compatibility so be careful. On the other note, is he sending you the same Loadus power brick or an US compatible one?
I'm in Australia so the power brick supplied suits our power supply 220-240v but I'm a bit sceptical about the quality.
post #5230 of 11298
Quote:
Originally Posted by rollOver View Post

I can tell you what I plan to do should my brick fail, I do not advise it for anyone else! Take a computer supply (most of us have a few spares) find one with two PCI-E legs (those that supply your GPU). Each one has two 12v legs which combined in series (not parallel, very important) will produce 24v at the lowest of the two rated amperages. The LoadUS specs two 24v legs at 5amps each so make sure you match this amperage. That gives you a very reliable temporary supply until the seller sends you a new one.
Great info, will bookmark Thanks
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