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Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club - Page 82

post #811 of 11286
Never mind. tongue.gif
Edited by ThingyNess - 3/16/12 at 7:40pm
post #812 of 11286
Quote:

Intriguing. It gives us another avenue for sourcing parts anyways, as at least some of the PA271W monitors apparently use the same T-Con we're aiming for
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThingyNess View Post

The timing controller is actually built into the LCD panel (or at least attached to it).
See here:
http://imgur.com/a/6r9XO#4
Hard to see from the washed out picture, but I can see the Parade logo and the small eDP cable on that one.

Yes, it is attached to the back of the LCD - but it differs between variants of the same panel. It should be entirely possible to unstick it and replace it (assuming we can source replacements)
Quote:
Originally Posted by necriss View Post

Quite expensive compared to the chinese source, but if someone wants to purchase to test out the conversion for us by all means please do.
1x 580 is enough to drive it at 1440p for 60hz, You'll possibly need 2x 680 for 100hz at 1440p.

It's probably not worth buying until we can source a DVI board and cable that'll match up with it. The DVI board I linked earlier (from ICS) would work for driving the LCD with the right cabling, but the backlight would be an issue as ICS' board is designed to drive a CCFL backlight.
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post #813 of 11286
Before anyone else makes the same mistake I did, do not use goo gone to get the stickers off the monitor. Eats right through the plastic.

Spent an hour sanding the bezel down so it looks smooth. Still needs polish but looks much better.
    
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post #814 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by jagz View Post

1280MB of vram isn't enough for one of these Catleaps playing BF3 @ 2560x1440 is it. Just asking for a friend, I'd say no, def not.

Why not? Depends on the card, but if its anything decent, it will play, but frame rate and settings will vary depending on the card.
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post #815 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by Somenamehere View Post

Before anyone else makes the same mistake I did, do not use goo gone to get the stickers off the monitor. Eats right through the plastic.
Spent an hour sanding the bezel down so it looks smooth. Still needs polish but looks much better.

Really? Goo-gone worked fine for me... then rubbing alcohol/distilled water mix to clean it up after that.
post #816 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by necriss View Post

Its enough, 570 can easily reach 580 speeds with some OC.
see http://www.overclock.net/t/951314/overclocked-570-vs-580

Not at all what I asked. Just.. nvm.
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post #817 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTM Audi View Post

Why not? Depends on the card, but if its anything decent, it will play, but frame rate and settings will vary depending on the card.

Meh, crank down AA and you're good. At this res jaggies are less noticeable.
post #818 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThingyNess View Post

Okay, last random thought I'll put into this thread for a little bit:
From iFixit's 27" iMac teardown, you can see that it uses the LM270WQ1-SDA2. Since it's an embedded display, Apple got to reduce their bill of materials by a ton by ONLY allowing a displayport input - given the lack of any other input circuitry listed in the teardown, I think they use the displayport input on the monitor to drive the scaler (which is presumably the DP628 just like our eDP models.
I wonder if any 27" iMac owners have tried feeding the external displayport INPUT on their iMac with a real computer (AKA, a PC) that had a displayport output with programmable timings like a modern NVidia/AMD card. I wonder how it would cope with 85-100hz inputs? It'd give us some quick and easy insight into what might happen if we rigged up our own displayport cable to feed into the T-Con on the eDP panels and bypassed the TMDS (DVI) -> eDP converters inside the monitor.

I have the 27" iMac (2009) with the displayport. I use it with my PC with a GTX 590 (has 3 DVI, 1 displayport).
If I try to go above 65hz, I get the exact same symptoms as the Catleap C revision (corrupt screen with vertical lines).
post #819 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbuschdev View Post

Really? Goo-gone worked fine for me... then rubbing alcohol/distilled water mix to clean it up after that.
No problems with googone here, either. The residue was annoying though.
post #820 of 11286
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbuschdev View Post

Really? Goo-gone worked fine for me... then rubbing alcohol/distilled water mix to clean it up after that.

Just did some googling around and it was goo gone xtreme which melts plastic ...

600
    
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Hard DriveOSMonitorPower
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