Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Think pump died... help?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Think pump died... help?

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
Was playing some ME3, all of a sudden I BSOD 0124, thinking I just needed a vccio bump, I rebooted to the message "High CPU Temperatures" in post, then checked the BIOS and was at 97C!!!! Looked at my res to see if the water was moving and it wasn't. Turned off the machine immediately because I was scared. Touched the blocks and they were extremely hot to the touch. I plugged my Pump up to another PSU and ran it by itself, it sat there making a noise like it was trying to spin. When I read about peoples pumps dying there's usually like a burned pcb or something, mine looked fine, and I didn't see anything that could block the impeller from spinning or something. I'm not sure what to do, out of warranty since I had it almost 2yrs, and I don't really want to buy another one... *depressed sigh* Any ideas?
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770K @ 4500Mhz (1.28V) MSI Z77 MPOWER Gigabyte GTX 670 (4 x 4GB) G.Skill Ripjaws X 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 830 (boot) Corsair H100 w/ 2x Xigmatek AOS Windows 8 Pro 64bit NEC EA231WMi 23" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G19 Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w Cooler Master HAF XB Logitech G700 
Mouse PadAudio
Artisan Shiden XSOFT Creative Titanium Fatal1ty PCIe 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770K @ 4500Mhz (1.28V) MSI Z77 MPOWER Gigabyte GTX 670 (4 x 4GB) G.Skill Ripjaws X 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 830 (boot) Corsair H100 w/ 2x Xigmatek AOS Windows 8 Pro 64bit NEC EA231WMi 23" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G19 Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w Cooler Master HAF XB Logitech G700 
Mouse PadAudio
Artisan Shiden XSOFT Creative Titanium Fatal1ty PCIe 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2 of 17
so did you tear open your pump?

did it run without the whole housing?

i thought the 355 were easy/quiet to use. was this a pump in res combo or seperate.

worse case scenario you are going to have to buy a new pump
The Cleaner
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 980X UD-9 GTX 480 SLI EK BLOCKS Corsair Dom GT 2000MHZ TR3X 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Lots of UBER PR0N GIGS W7 H223BHMID Main Screen U2410x3 (storage for now) Filco Majestice Linear R 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair 1000HX HA a JOKE RATz9 Titanium HD 
  hide details  
Reply
The Cleaner
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 980X UD-9 GTX 480 SLI EK BLOCKS Corsair Dom GT 2000MHZ TR3X 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Lots of UBER PR0N GIGS W7 H223BHMID Main Screen U2410x3 (storage for now) Filco Majestice Linear R 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair 1000HX HA a JOKE RATz9 Titanium HD 
  hide details  
Reply
post #3 of 17
Thread Starter 
Was using the stock housing except for the top if that's what you mean. I took it apart and removed everything like the impeller and looked directly at the PCB when I found out it was making a sort of clicking like it was trying to spin up.

After some searching I'm wondering if I should get someone to see if they could repair it.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770K @ 4500Mhz (1.28V) MSI Z77 MPOWER Gigabyte GTX 670 (4 x 4GB) G.Skill Ripjaws X 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 830 (boot) Corsair H100 w/ 2x Xigmatek AOS Windows 8 Pro 64bit NEC EA231WMi 23" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G19 Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w Cooler Master HAF XB Logitech G700 
Mouse PadAudio
Artisan Shiden XSOFT Creative Titanium Fatal1ty PCIe 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770K @ 4500Mhz (1.28V) MSI Z77 MPOWER Gigabyte GTX 670 (4 x 4GB) G.Skill Ripjaws X 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 830 (boot) Corsair H100 w/ 2x Xigmatek AOS Windows 8 Pro 64bit NEC EA231WMi 23" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G19 Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w Cooler Master HAF XB Logitech G700 
Mouse PadAudio
Artisan Shiden XSOFT Creative Titanium Fatal1ty PCIe 
  hide details  
Reply
post #4 of 17
probably have to soder the wires again. good luck on your search

check this out

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2q1Gvd34n4
The Cleaner
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 980X UD-9 GTX 480 SLI EK BLOCKS Corsair Dom GT 2000MHZ TR3X 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Lots of UBER PR0N GIGS W7 H223BHMID Main Screen U2410x3 (storage for now) Filco Majestice Linear R 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair 1000HX HA a JOKE RATz9 Titanium HD 
  hide details  
Reply
The Cleaner
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 980X UD-9 GTX 480 SLI EK BLOCKS Corsair Dom GT 2000MHZ TR3X 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Lots of UBER PR0N GIGS W7 H223BHMID Main Screen U2410x3 (storage for now) Filco Majestice Linear R 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair 1000HX HA a JOKE RATz9 Titanium HD 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5 of 17
Thread Starter 

I remember seeing that at XS, my soldering skills are non existent sadly.

Nvm that though, check this out. I decided to mess around with the pump since it was dead, I threw it around because I was pissed it died, let my cat play with the impeller, and tried pulling the PCB off... w/o a soldering iron lol. So basically I was pretty set on just buying the 35x and calling it a day, so I decided to run the pump dry for a second or two. To my surprise, it started spinning!!!

So I took my Res out, went to the sink made a kinda tiny loop so it can simulate a kinda full setup, and guess what, IT WORKS! I haven't put it back in my machine yet because I'm thinking there's something I'm missing, or either it's on its way to pump heaven. I'll record a video later and show you, it's pushing that water like nothing was ever wrong.

Like I said before, both psu's showed a non spinning pump, same backup psu was used to run the pump by the sink, so I don't think it's psu related. Any ideas cause now I'm stumped...

http://youtube.com/watch?v=YOC-VVOSNdo


Edited by nascasho - 3/8/12 at 2:40am
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770K @ 4500Mhz (1.28V) MSI Z77 MPOWER Gigabyte GTX 670 (4 x 4GB) G.Skill Ripjaws X 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 830 (boot) Corsair H100 w/ 2x Xigmatek AOS Windows 8 Pro 64bit NEC EA231WMi 23" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G19 Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w Cooler Master HAF XB Logitech G700 
Mouse PadAudio
Artisan Shiden XSOFT Creative Titanium Fatal1ty PCIe 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770K @ 4500Mhz (1.28V) MSI Z77 MPOWER Gigabyte GTX 670 (4 x 4GB) G.Skill Ripjaws X 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 830 (boot) Corsair H100 w/ 2x Xigmatek AOS Windows 8 Pro 64bit NEC EA231WMi 23" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G19 Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w Cooler Master HAF XB Logitech G700 
Mouse PadAudio
Artisan Shiden XSOFT Creative Titanium Fatal1ty PCIe 
  hide details  
Reply
post #6 of 17
thing is ridiculously loud. but great job on the quick fix. strange things have happened
The Cleaner
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 980X UD-9 GTX 480 SLI EK BLOCKS Corsair Dom GT 2000MHZ TR3X 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Lots of UBER PR0N GIGS W7 H223BHMID Main Screen U2410x3 (storage for now) Filco Majestice Linear R 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair 1000HX HA a JOKE RATz9 Titanium HD 
  hide details  
Reply
The Cleaner
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 980X UD-9 GTX 480 SLI EK BLOCKS Corsair Dom GT 2000MHZ TR3X 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Lots of UBER PR0N GIGS W7 H223BHMID Main Screen U2410x3 (storage for now) Filco Majestice Linear R 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair 1000HX HA a JOKE RATz9 Titanium HD 
  hide details  
Reply
post #7 of 17
Always set warnings based on pump rotation.
Sovereign
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770k Maximus V Gene HIS IceQ 7950 16gb Samsung  
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 840 120gb H80i Windows 7 x64 Benq XL2420T 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Seasonic 1000 Platinum TJ08e Mionix Naos 5000 Propus 380 
Audio
Creative ZxR 
  hide details  
Reply
Sovereign
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770k Maximus V Gene HIS IceQ 7950 16gb Samsung  
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 840 120gb H80i Windows 7 x64 Benq XL2420T 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Seasonic 1000 Platinum TJ08e Mionix Naos 5000 Propus 380 
Audio
Creative ZxR 
  hide details  
Reply
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by douglatins View Post

Always set warnings based on pump rotation.

I was just thinking about doing that. Any recommendations on where to start? I plugged up that 3-pin, checked the BIOS for rpm settings and didn't see any. I sure as hell don't wana instal that ASUS ROG Utility cause it sucks, but might have to lol.

I should probably plug it up to the cpu fan header...
Edited by nascasho - 3/8/12 at 2:11pm
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770K @ 4500Mhz (1.28V) MSI Z77 MPOWER Gigabyte GTX 670 (4 x 4GB) G.Skill Ripjaws X 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 830 (boot) Corsair H100 w/ 2x Xigmatek AOS Windows 8 Pro 64bit NEC EA231WMi 23" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G19 Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w Cooler Master HAF XB Logitech G700 
Mouse PadAudio
Artisan Shiden XSOFT Creative Titanium Fatal1ty PCIe 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770K @ 4500Mhz (1.28V) MSI Z77 MPOWER Gigabyte GTX 670 (4 x 4GB) G.Skill Ripjaws X 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 830 (boot) Corsair H100 w/ 2x Xigmatek AOS Windows 8 Pro 64bit NEC EA231WMi 23" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G19 Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w Cooler Master HAF XB Logitech G700 
Mouse PadAudio
Artisan Shiden XSOFT Creative Titanium Fatal1ty PCIe 
  hide details  
Reply
post #9 of 17
Sounds like the pump is on it's way to pump heaven as you call it. wink.gif

When a DDC pump start clicking, it's time for a new pump. Sure, in a mini-test loop the pump should run well. But, when under load and the loop temps are added, the click no-spin will happen again. The DDC-3 and DDC-3x pumps run around 100C+ under load. Now that's hot. A DDC-1T run about 57C under load and with a performance top about 4C more (61C).

A DDC blue impeller can fetch anywhere from $10 to $20 in the FS marketplace. Some people have ran the pump dry too long and burned out the impeller, seizing it up. Thus, a replacement impeller is needed.

With all of the DDC pump mods out there, nobody has ever made an improved replacement-drop-in impeller.

Anyways, A DDC-1T pump is cost effective in your case. thumb.gif
My System
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Athlon 64 x2 5000 Black 2.6Ghz OC 3.3Ghz GigaByte GA-MA78GM-S2H Full Radeon 780G HD 3200 4GB Corsair DDR2 6400C4 
Hard DriveOSPowerCase
Seagate Barracuda 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache Windows 7 Pro x64 Corsair HX620W Meridian XClio High Tower I 
  hide details  
Reply
My System
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Athlon 64 x2 5000 Black 2.6Ghz OC 3.3Ghz GigaByte GA-MA78GM-S2H Full Radeon 780G HD 3200 4GB Corsair DDR2 6400C4 
Hard DriveOSPowerCase
Seagate Barracuda 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache Windows 7 Pro x64 Corsair HX620W Meridian XClio High Tower I 
  hide details  
Reply
post #10 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmaverick View Post

Sounds like the pump is on it's way to pump heaven as you call it. wink.gif
When a DDC pump start clicking, it's time for a new pump. Sure, in a mini-test loop the pump should run well. But, when under load and the loop temps are added, the click no-spin will happen again. The DDC-3 and DDC-3x pumps run around 100C+ under load. Now that's hot. A DDC-1T run about 57C under load and with a performance top about 4C more (61C).
A DDC blue impeller can fetch anywhere from $10 to $20 in the FS marketplace. Some people have ran the pump dry too long and burned out the impeller, seizing it up. Thus, a replacement impeller is needed.

With all of the DDC pump mods out there, nobody has ever made an improved replacement-drop-in impeller.
Anyways, A DDC-1T pump is cost effective in your case. thumb.gif

My impeller is blue, like a bright-ish blue. As for temps, my retard self let it run all night and when I woke up to check it, the heat generated by the pump made everything extremely hot to the touch, like microwave hot lol. AND IT STILL KEPT GOING!!

You think investing in one of those koolance heatsink (HTS -PMP400's I think) is a good idea? There's no airflow under my res and it's been running like this since late 2010 lol. Now all of this has me a bit nervous. Probably why it started clicking too probably.

Btw, made a video of her back in action and found a nice way to shut the system down in case it hapens again... which it probably will:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LDVqzisYqo
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770K @ 4500Mhz (1.28V) MSI Z77 MPOWER Gigabyte GTX 670 (4 x 4GB) G.Skill Ripjaws X 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 830 (boot) Corsair H100 w/ 2x Xigmatek AOS Windows 8 Pro 64bit NEC EA231WMi 23" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G19 Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w Cooler Master HAF XB Logitech G700 
Mouse PadAudio
Artisan Shiden XSOFT Creative Titanium Fatal1ty PCIe 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770K @ 4500Mhz (1.28V) MSI Z77 MPOWER Gigabyte GTX 670 (4 x 4GB) G.Skill Ripjaws X 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 830 (boot) Corsair H100 w/ 2x Xigmatek AOS Windows 8 Pro 64bit NEC EA231WMi 23" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G19 Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w Cooler Master HAF XB Logitech G700 
Mouse PadAudio
Artisan Shiden XSOFT Creative Titanium Fatal1ty PCIe 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Water Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Think pump died... help?