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post #11 of 57
you want something like this for your battery holder :-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-X-AA-Battery-Holder-Case-20CM-8-Leads-/230747680411?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item35b9a22e9b

It should fit snugly into the tin. smile.gif
post #12 of 57
Thread Starter 
ok i do have a radio shack 5 mins away. thanks about the support of putting the hub under the batteries. I thought of it when i watched the video again and he had 2 rows of of batteries. Also if each battery is 2300 mAh does that mean it woulf have a cap of 9200 mAh? So i need a battery holder, Bright led, and resisters
 
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post #13 of 57
no your capacity will still be 2300mAh - this is because the cells are in series. if they were in parallel, you would get 9200mAh capacity, but at 1.2V.

Series wired increases the voltage. Parallel wired increases the current capacity. thats the general rule.

So if you can source the battery holder, High power LED that would be good. Don't get the resistors yet - we have to do some sums to work out the values we need. (you get a whole range of values for resistors. ) And we will need to look up the color code chart so we know the color bands on the resistors.

http://educypedia.karadimov.info/electronics/resistorcolorcode.gif

PS - don't forget the switches - you only need 2 small switches, one for power, one for the torch. smile.gif
Edited by latelesley - 3/11/12 at 9:30pm
post #14 of 57
Thread Starter 
ok i also have a 3 volt cell and a solar panel that i could use for the torch.

so ok Battery holder torch and i think i have some small switches
 
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post #15 of 57
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12582716

that LED would be brighter, and cheaper smile.gif

if you get that one - the resistor you need is worked out like this :-

The current supplied to the LED will be the supply voltage minus the LED forward voltage divided by the resistor value.

I = V / R were I is the current in amps, V is the voltage in volts, and R is the resistance in ohms.

We need to move the equation about as we are trying to work out the resistance R. V and I we already know from the LED specifications, and the supply voltage. If you are good a maths, you'll know that the equation can be moved around to R = V / I. It has been a long time since I did the maths on this, your maths teacher could explain how it gets moved around to this.

The forward voltage of that LED is 3.6V. the max forward current is 30mA, or 0.03A. For safety though, we should run it at 25mA or 0.025A, otherwise it could burn out if the voltage peaks a little higher. Now the resistor needs to drop the voltage from 5.8V to 3.6V at 0.025A.

this gives the equation R = Vbatt -Vled / I

this is the battery voltage minus the LED voltage, divided by the current

R = 5.8V - 3.6V / 0.025A

R = 2.2V / 0.025A

R = 88 ohms.

the nearest standard value for this 91ohms, but we could get away with going down to an 82ohm resistor - this will be slightly brighter, and will not burn out the LED at full charge.

I = Vbatt - Vled / R

I = 5.8V - 3.6V / 82
I = 2.2V / 82
I = 0.0268A, or 26.8mA - still under the 30mA limit

This chart will show you standard resistor values.

http://home.anadolu.edu.tr/~mkoc6/EEM102/resistorsandcaps.pdf

Now question is - can you tell me, from the resistor color chart before, what the color code will be, if we choose a resistor with 5% tolerance?

As for the battery holder - take the tin along with you, because I think the ones with the built in switch will be too big for the tin. That's why I recommended the other one, the dimensions will just squeeze into the tin. This one may be better -

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062244

Hopefully this isn't hurting your head by now! biggrin.gif

Let me know how you get on. smile.gif

L x
post #16 of 57
Thread Starter 
well i could not read the chart but using this i found that The wizard recommends a 1/8W or greater 270 ohm resistor. The color code for 270 ohms is red violet brown.
 
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post #17 of 57
Ah! you need to be careful though - it asked for the current in mA,, not amps - so you should have put 25 in for the current, not 0.025.

Still you weren't far off with the idea smile.gif

when I plugged in the values it came out as 100ohm - but I still think 82ohm will be best for when the batteries are slightly discharged, while not going over the rating at full charge.

i'll put you out your misery - the color code we are looking for is grey red black gold. Sorry I was just trying to get you into using the color code, as it is the standard code for resistors. If you fiddle with electronics, in time it comes in handy.

smile.gif

ok the next resistor you can work out is the power LED (one of the ones you have already on wires). To give you a head start, safe values to assume for indicator LED's like that will be a forward voltage of 2.2V, and a forward current of 20mA.

this will most likely be safe values for these LED's - you can compare with the radioshack ones and you'll see the forward voltage isn't far off, and the current under the maximum in all cases. thats the trick with LEDs, keep the current under the maximum.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062551
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062554
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062550
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062552

only other thing we havent talked about is the polarity of the LED - they are meant only to work one way, just like ordinary diodes. if you look at this image :-
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/imageview.php?image=2222
this will show you how to tell the ANODE (positive side) and CATHODE (negative side). Now, new LED's will have one lead longer than the other, but with used ones, you might not have this luxury, and have to rely on the flat spot ion the diode case. It is important, just like the battery polarity, to put them in the circuit the right way, with the lead on the flat-spot side to ground.
Edited by latelesley - 3/12/12 at 3:15pm
post #18 of 57
Thread Starter 
went to radio shack Got the battery holder, resistors , and leds for 5 bucks. I dont no if i got the right resisters i got theses i also got these leds because they did not have the other ones. I also got this battery holder it barley fits might have to mod it. Also every comment said "The polarity of the leads is reversed!" what can i do to change it? i will make a video tommrow after i get home from school at 2:30 eastern time zone
 
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post #19 of 57
ok, battery holder good! thumb.gif

LED's - They'll do, but will be dimmer. (I take it you will only use one?)

the resistors - 5% good - 1/2W good - 22ohm BAAAADDDDDD!

thats too low a value - plus we'll have to rework the sums for the different LED - its got a 3.3V forward voltage, and we might need to drop the current to 20mA, to stay under the 25mA rating.

5.8V - 3.3V = 2.5V

2.5V / 0.020A (20mA) = 125ohm so we need a 120ohm resistor for this LED. (nearest standard value)

maybe you can catch radioshack tomorrow, and ask if you can swap the 22ohm resistors for 120ohm resistors. 1/2W and 5% tolerance ones are fine, they will look exactly the same probably, but with the color code Brown Red Brown Gold.

I'm afraid I won't be about tomorrow - I've some stuff to do at my cousins, and at my Aunts, i'm expecting to be out till Wed evening. (I'm on GMT here). If I get a chance I'll check in online, but realisically it'll be thursday before I can put up decent replies. I'll take my lappy with me in case I get time. smile.gif
post #20 of 57
ok, battery holder good! thumb.gif

LED's - They'll do, but will be dimmer. (I take it you will only use one?)

the resistors - 5% good - 1/2W good - 22ohm BAAAADDDDDD!

thats too low a value - plus we'll have to rework the sums for the different LED - its got a 3.3V forward voltage, and we might need to drop the current to 20mA, to stay under the 25mA rating.

5.8V - 3.3V = 2.5V

2.5V / 0.020A (20mA) = 125ohm so we need a 120ohm resistor for this LED. (nearest standard value)

maybe you can catch radioshack tomorrow, and ask if you can swap the 22ohm resistors for 120ohm resistors. 1/2W and 5% tolerance ones are fine, they will look exactly the same probably, but with the color code Brown Red Brown Gold.

I'm afraid I won't be about tomorrow - I've some stuff to do at my cousins, and at my Aunts, i'm expecting to be out till Wed evening. (I'm on GMT here). If I get a chance I'll check in online, but realisically it'll be thursday before I can put up decent replies. I'll take my lappy with me in case I get time. smile.gif

PS - the LED polarity thing - the comments were saying some brands were reversed (if you are relying on the lead length to tell the polarity.) If you stick to using the flat edge to find the cathode - it'll all be fine. Have a look at the LEDs you showed me in the video. Look closely at the rim where the leads go in - you will see there is a flat edge on the rim nearest the lead that is the cathode.
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