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post #41 of 57
LOL! And I thought I was disorganised! Sorry, i'm having a giggle at your expense - I can be just as bad at times, loose tools, and i'm sitting on them etc.

Right first question - do you need the resistor? YES! You are probably getting away with that switch and circuit, because on that circuit board it is NOT two resistors, they look more like IC's to me, and you'll probably find one is limiting the current to the LED, and the other is a flasher circuit. If you got the codes of the front face, you could look them up and it would tell you what they do. You wire that LED up without that circuit, and just the switch, chances are it will pop. Also I noted your brightness comment, thats why I had recommended the higher mcd LED, cos it would be brighter. I think you had more than one LED? if so you could add 2 or more to the circuit, with a resistor to each LED, but this increases the current draw, which means the batteries won't last as long. Its a tradeoff for you to choose. But just connect them the same if you do - powerswitch - resistor - LED - ground. your current draw will increase 40mA for 2 LEDs, 60mA for 3. etc. each one you add, the batteries will last less time.

Second Question - a switch similar to the one you showed - would be perfect, it will do the job just nicely.

Question 3 - the Car/Wall charger idea - I will say its possible you COULD use some of the parts out of one - but you'd have to modify either one, the car charger is 12V rated, so will have circuitry to regulate the voltage down to 5V. The batteries will not have enough voltage/juice to run that regulator. usually a regualtor circuit would have to have about 3V higher than the output to work, which in this case would be about 8 volts, too high for your battery pack to achieve. And you have a similar problem with a wall charger, except it'll be going from 120v/240v, so it'll be more a switched mode PSU design. More components, more complexity. I feel like you are just looking for an easy out to avoid soldering 4 resistors though......... smile.gif

Question 4 - what program did I use for the diagram? It a small open source program called TinyCAD, which I found online. It's not bad for basic diagrams, but I had to make up a couple of symbols, like the USB socket symbol I had to create. But it does have a lot of resistors, caps, inductors, switches, transistors diodes etc, and some IC's like the 74-series of logic chips. It is hand for making wee diagrams, but I dunno if it would be useful beyond that. Anyway, you can find it here.

BTW, the tin looks cool, can't wait to see your design on it! smile.gif

Anyway have fun modding, and i'll talk to you later.

Lesley x
post #42 of 57
Thread Starter 
ok as for the switch and circuit in the video i should you it had the 2 positive outs to connect to the led if i solder them together i might get a higher output

Yes it came with two leds right after the video i lost one on my desk doh.gif i am going to try to find it but no promises its like a jungle

ok and tommrow i am going to make a radio shack run because i am going to the mall with my gf......... and what ever i spend when i am with her my parents give back to me so free parts biggrin.gif
 
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post #43 of 57
I doubt you'll get a higher output soldering the two positives together - they will both be designed to output the same voltage/current. And if it does double the current, you risk burning up the LED. Seriously, man up, and just get a resistor, and try it with that. It will give you more accurate results. With the circuit on the switch, its an unknown entity, you don't know for sure what it is outputting. smile.gif

Have fun on your date! wink.gifsmile.gif
post #44 of 57
Thread Starter 
so this is what i need
1 x 180ohm 1/4Watt resistor (for power LED)
2 x 150Kohm resistors (only needed of charging apple devices)
2 x 100Kohm resistors (only needed of charging apple devices)
1 x miniature latching push switch (for the torch light)
1 x 120ohm 1/4Watt resistor for torch LED
WiFi adapter and i need to find my flash drive
 
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post #45 of 57
yep, pretty much - although i thought you said you had another switch, which would do for the torch? Unless of course you want the push-switch?

also, if you use two LEDs for the torch, you need two 120ohm resistors. and remember its 2 each of the 150Kohm and 100Kohm. smile.gif
post #46 of 57
Thread Starter 
ok thanks i am gonna try to find the led and the switch
 
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post #47 of 57
Thread Starter 
update
 
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post #48 of 57
ok - all the resistors are WRONG! Radioshack guy is WRONG! Slap him on the back of the head for being an idiot! 100ohm is 80 ohms too small. this means more current (almost double), which means too much current through the LED which means popped LED's (try and get some free leds out of him. 1.5K is 100 times too small. 150K MEANS 150K, not 1.5K. Same with the 1K which should be 100K. Still, in this application, because we are using them to divide the voltage on the data pins, we can get away with them, as they BOTH are wrong the same multiplication factor. IE divided by 100. It means they will draw 100 times the current that the 150K/100K would draw, which reduces your battery time a little. I think it won't be much though. the current draw will be :-


I = V / R
= 5.8 / 1.5K+1K (assuming fully charged batteries)
= 5.8 / 2.5K (or 2,500 ohms)
= 5.8 / 2500
= 0.00232 A
= 2.32 mA

you have two dividers - one for each data pin so it will draw double the answer from your batteries - = 4.64 mA

if you used 150K/100K :-

I = V / R
= 5.8 / 150K + 100K
= 5.8 / 250K (or 250,000ohms)
= 5.8 / 250000
= 0.0000232 A
= 0.0232 mA
= 23.2 μA (micro amps - there are 1000 μA in 1mA)
doubled since there are two dividers 46.4μA

upshot is - you can use the 1K and 1.5K resistors in place of the 100K/150K's, but it'll draw more from your battery. it'll rob you of 4.6mA per h off your battery, roughly. Not a lot in the grand scheme of things.

by the way, 1/2W is fine, but 1/4W would have done.

the switches will be ok, a switch is a switch. only thing with those ones, is you would have to hold it on, to light the torch. A latching one, you could click it on and off, like a conventional torch.

as for the Radioshack guy - he doesn't know your circuit, sounds like he knows jack-***** about electronics. He's a sales guy - he is the radioshack equivalent of the QVC guy who was flogging laptops that your parents liked. Remember this. If he says its right, its probably wrong, and you should slap him again, for being an idiot. tongue.gifbiggrin.gif

Right the 100ohms resistors, if they don't have 180's, you can get 200ohm or 220ohm 1/4W, but your power LED will be slightly dimmer.
the 1.5K/1K, you can use them, or exchange for 150K/100K, next best size 75K/50K (you need them in matching pairs like this to get the right voltage on the pins. the higher the ohm value, the less they draw from the battery. thats the rule, and why I chose high values.

the switches, if your happy with them, run with them, if not, get one that clicks on and clicks off. Imagine holding the tin, and having to hold the switch. thats the difference.

Back to you Captain! smile.gif
Edited by latelesley - 5/9/12 at 7:52pm
post #49 of 57
Thread Starter 
as for the 100 ohms can i use to of them to get 200 ohms... i dont really want to go back there again lol if not i guess i will be taking a trip again...
 
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post #50 of 57
yeah usung two 100 ohms in series would work. Connected like this :-

5.8V - switch - 100ohm res. - 100ohm res. - Led - 0V

smile.gif
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