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Phobya rad leak :(

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
So after spending the entire afternoon putting my new system together I started it up and noticed I had a small leak coming from my 480 Rad. Silly me for not testing it before installing it.

With that said Im going to have to order a new one and have it shipped to me, which is going to take a few days. Is it possible to run the pc without the rad if im not overclocking? Just having the water run in a closed loop between gpu, cpu, res, pump? I'd like to atleast setup my computer while I wait for the rad.
post #2 of 18
I'm no pro water cooler, but that is definately not a good idea.

The water would just keep heating up because there isn't anything to cool it down, it would pretty much just be like running the cpu without a heatsink
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post #3 of 18
Well, you can certainly leak test without a rad but unless you live in Siberia an active system with nowhere to dump the heat will be saturated very quickly... Highly recommended against!
post #4 of 18
Sure for about 5 minutes until the water comes up to temperature. This is where have a spare radiator (even a small single 120) would get you by.

The only quick fix would be to find and fix the leak with solder or JBweld, but then there goes your RMA option. Pretty rare for radiators to leak unless you poke a hole in the tubes using screws that are too long...but those too can be fixed with a little work.thumb.gif
    
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post #5 of 18
Thread Starter 
Its very possible that I may have used screws that were too long. But I used the ones they provided in the box so im a bit confused lol.. If that is the case, what could you do to repair the holes made by the screws?
post #6 of 18
Just use the stock heatsink that came with the cpu, if you have that.

Otherwise just wait until you get a new radiator, better to wait for the rma than to try to fix it yourself.

Maybe you just have fans that are thinner than the ones that go with those screws. Hit up Home Depot and find screws of the same diameter, but shorter?
post #7 of 18
Thread Starter 
Ya will do already ordered the new rad, I'll call them tommorrow and see about sending the defective one back and just having them credit me.
post #8 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlocal3 View Post

Its very possible that I may have used screws that were too long. But I used the ones they provided in the box so im a bit confused lol.. If that is the case, what could you do to repair the holes made by the screws?

That's really common, most people will have done that after enough time. I put three holes in an mcr320 a while back. All I did was to find the holes then I used a large soldering iron and cleaned the metal around the hole using the iron and some soldering flux...after that just a dab of solder to cover the hole and ot wss fixed. The harder part was getting at the hole to do the work. I did that repair several years ago and still use the radiator.

You should try to fix it because most manufactureres won't RMA the rad unless it is a manufacturing defect.

If the solder scares you a dab of JB weld is something a lot of other people have used with good success.
    
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post #9 of 18
Did you get the Phobya 1.2 or v.2 I've just installed 3 v.2 the construction seem pretty poor quality the design seem great but the v.2 seems poorly constructed; while installing a large chunk of solder just fell of mine hope its wasn't doing anything vital smile.gif 2 of the 3 V.2 also seem so have some metal inside them rattling around! Is that common?
    
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post #10 of 18
Don't mean to hijack the thread but while we are on the topic are you meant or remove your MB battery for the leak test? redface.gif
    
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3930k w/ XSPC raystorm @ 4.8Ghz Rampage Extreme 4 w/ EK WB HD 7970 w/ EK WB Parallel HD 7970 w/ EK WB Parallel 
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Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung External SE-208 Phobya v.2 480 x 3 Phobya v1.2 480  Dual XSPC top w/ 2 x DDC -1 pump w/ DIYINHK Pum... 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
2 x AC AQ5 lt w/ WB's 64bit windows 7 pro Samsung 2443BW+ Sidewinder X6 
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