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Water loop, never ending air pockets? SOLVED! - Page 4

post #31 of 68
I doubt that two rads r faulty... even a dirty rad would cool to some point if there is a flow trough it...few degrees difference at most.

U can try to connect just 1 tubing from the pump to the rad and than turn the pump on and let water in to it and see if anything comes out on the other side of the rad. Maybe ur inlets r too long or something and it s restricting the flow too much... do this in a bath tub so u dont get wet of smthing...

Whats ur loop order? Res-pump-rad-block?
Can u post some pics of ur rig so i can see what it looks like?
Zeus
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Zeus
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 2500k 5 Ghz @ 1.488 V 24/7 Asrock p67 extreme 4 B3 Gainward GTX 570 GS GLH @ 850/2100 @ 1.00V 2x4 Gb G:SKILL Sniper @ 1600 9-9-9-24 t1 @ 1.260 V 
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RAID-2xWD Sata3 Blue 500 Gb + 1xWD Sata3 Green 2TB none RAD: EK XTC 420 CPU Block: EK-Supreme HF - Full Nickel-EN 
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GPU Block: EK Universal EN Win7 Professional 64Bit LG Flatron M2362D 23"[1920x1080] Steelseries 6GV2 
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post #32 of 68
Thread Starter 
I know the H60's stock rad works. I used it when it was a bone stock H60 for months. The GT240 I had just picked up, and that's what seems to be the source or cause of all the problems.

I've tried pumping water though each rad independently and each had excellent flow. The loop being Res / Radiator / Res. The pump obviously resides in the Reservoir since its a submersible pump.

The loop order originally was: Res / Radiator / CPU Block / Res

The current loop order is: Res / CPU Block / Radiator / Res

The reasoning behind the loop switch would be the reservoir size. Since the reservoir holds roughly 1.5 gallons of water, the radiator would have to cool the hot res water before entering the CPU block. This way, the water is cooled BEFORE entering the reservoir so the reservoir water never gets too hot.

Also, I forgot to add. I took the cold plate back off and removed the separator inside. This drastically improved pressure. I'm pretty sure that separator was never meant to handle that amount of pressure anyways.

Tubing length:
- 2 Ft 4 Inches from the Reservoir pump (pump outlet) to the CPU block.
- 2 Ft 8 Inches from the CPU block to the Radiator inlet.
- 1 Ft 4 Inches from the Radiator outlet to the Reservoir.

Total Length of tubing: 6 Ft 4 Inches // or 1.93 Meters.

And btw, as soon as I get done wasting my time with this loop, I'll rep everyone that posted. thumb.gif
Edited by *ka24e* - 3/15/12 at 7:30pm
post #33 of 68
Thread Starter 
Here is the latest screen:

437

Uh huh... This was a little experiment. I intentionally put the CPU at around 50c adjusting voltage of the CPU. After about 5-10min of running at 50+ C, something had to be warm to the touch. Once again, nothing was hot, not even a little bit. The radiator also did not have a fan on it. (using the 120 Corsair rad btw)

The reservoir water was cool to the touch, the lines felt about room temperature and the radiator was slightly cold. I lifted the exhaust hose out of the water and sure enough, it had great pressure.

I know the CPU temp sensor is correct, because of the chip-set temp. Regardless of airflow across the chipset heatsink, the CPU temp would make temps cooler or hotter. Higher CPU temp = Higher chipset temp etc.
Edited by *ka24e* - 3/15/12 at 8:28pm
post #34 of 68
Going off of my experience with the H50, there may be a rubber capped bleed port inside the pump housing. The pump itself is not submersible, the motor spins the magnetic rotor through the plastic housing so it never gets wet. It may be bringing air in that way .
post #35 of 68
Thread Starter 
I'll have to look at that.

The pump itself is gutted at the moment. The pump wheel and rubber separator that goes over the cold plate are removed. I'll remove the cold plate again and see what I can find out.

Thanks.
post #36 of 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by *ka24e* View Post

I'll have to look at that.
The pump itself is gutted at the moment. The pump wheel and rubber separator that goes over the cold plate are removed. I'll remove the cold plate again and see what I can find out.
Thanks.

I'm not sure how similar the H60 is, but its worth a look. I didn't know there was a bleed cap until I took the screw off by accident. Seems like a really weird situation you got there.
post #37 of 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by prjindigo View Post

Too much pressure results in turbulent flow that can cause uneven flow inside the waterblock.

348

This is baaaad misinformation. Look up turbulent flow; if anything, it results in more even flow (since the water particles are circulated more thoroughly). That's the only way I could spin what you were saying as making sense.
Quote:
Originally Posted by prjindigo View Post

The pump-with-plate systems are limited by the SURFACE AREA of contact with the water and have a maximum thermal transmission no matter how fast the water is moving.

384

At the speeds we're talking about, increased flow rate ALWAYS equals lower temps. Your point isn't really relevant. Yeah, they are limited by surface area, but only when you start to approach some insane theoretical limit. You'll hit the heat dump/flow rate wall way before you hit the wall you mentioned.
Quote:
Originally Posted by prjindigo View Post

Store bought distilled water often has material added back in.

Simply false. Or if it does, it's on the ingredients. Skinnee and numerous others have compared store-bought distilled water against premium distilled water available from specialty stores and super nano fluid polymer thermonuclear hydrotech string theory coolants and found that it consistently matches or outperforms them (and is good with just a dash of biocide).
Quote:
Originally Posted by prjindigo View Post

The longer the hose the more back-pressure on the system.

Entirely negligible. I mean, if you're running 1/8" ID tubing and decided to loop it up like a garden hose, that would be bad. Hopefully we have the sense not to do this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by prjindigo View Post

Your first set of fans should PUSH INTO the radiator... pulling through the radiator doesn't force air contact with the surface of the metal.

Gonna have to refer back to my Archer meme here...what on earth are you even saying? That the air doesn't contact the metal fins when it's pulled through the radiator? That doesn't even make sense.

The rest of your stuff is pretty on the mark, but that stuff I quoted was waaaaay off. Check your facts.
post #38 of 68
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpion49 View Post

I'm not sure how similar the H60 is, but its worth a look. I didn't know there was a bleed cap until I took the screw off by accident. Seems like a really weird situation you got there.

Took it all apart, but didn't see any bleed cap or anything resembling one. I did put the rubber separator back in, but that was a mistake...

338
post #39 of 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by *ka24e* View Post

Took it all apart, but didn't see any bleed cap or anything resembling one. I did put the rubber separator back in, but that was a mistake...
338

Geez, what does it do with just one radiator? This is a stumper for sure.
post #40 of 68
Thread Starter 
Pretty much the same thing you see in the picture. Temps just get hotter, and hotter, and hotter....

Here's a cold boot with ice cold water. At 1.6vcore biggrin.gif

401

I'll give it 10 minutes for the water to warm up, then temps will be hot enough to boil water.
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