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Water loop, never ending air pockets? SOLVED! - Page 5

post #41 of 68
Thread Starter 
And I called it.

After the temp ramped up pretty quick, I added a second fan (both at full speed) to the Black Ice GT 240 and booted with stock clocks / vcore. The pic speaks for itself.

338


Oh, and in case anyone was wondering. No, the water / tubing / reservoir and rad were not even close to being hot.

I give up.gunner.gif
post #42 of 68
I really wouldnt be happy letting my CPU get to 200F (93C) and if that is on water i would be like ***!!

I had that processor in my old HP Slimline at my work. Overclocked it about 300MHz and all it had was a little Asus heatsink that came stock. Idle it was 24C and full load was 55C.. Your temps are odd!
RAH! v2
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RAH! v2
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post #43 of 68
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I know. The sad thing Is, I get way better temps with the stock AMD heatsink. I seriously do not even know how that is possible.

The only other possible solution would be to pick up an actual water block. Although, I'd hate to spend another dime on this, and I'm almost 100% convinced that even a real waterblock wouldn't solve the problem.

Here's a little break down, or cliffs for anyone not wanting to read through pages:

- Started with a stock Corsair H60. I never broke 45C under load with the CPU @ 3.3ghz w/ 1.52vcore.
- Decided to upgrade the radiator to a Black Ice GT 240 while still using the H60's pump.
- The GT240 did not work. I had nothing but constant air bubbles and high temps.
- Switched back to the H60 radiator and temps were much better than the GT 240, but they were still higher than the stock H60.
- Though the pump was too small for the GT 240, so I picked up an 80GPH pump.
- The 80GPH pump still didn't solve the problem
- The stock H60 120 rad worked pretty good with the 80GPH pump, yet temps were still pretty high.
- Continued to try different combination of pumps, routing and radiators.
- Tried a smaller reservoir. Which didn't work.
- Over a period of time, the stock Corsair H60 gradually seemed to be getting worse and worse.
- Decided to go all out and grab a 330GPH pump.
- The pump was excellent, but didn't solve the problem.
- Neither radiator was working now. Before the H60 was actually keeping temps down better than the GT 240, now there is no difference.
- Filled the GT240 rad with 91% alcohol and let it set for a few hours.
- The GT240 still didn't work.
- Gutted the H60 pump. Same problem.
- Went back to the stock AMD cooler and said F it for now.
post #44 of 68
Can u maybe post some pics of the loop? Each part for it self and loop?
That way maybe we can see whats the problem...screenshots dont help that much.
Just use ur mobile phone or something, no need for hi res pics.
Zeus
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Zeus
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post #45 of 68
I bet you have lines crossed somewhere in the loop. Happened to me before. Either that or the 1/4" tubing is the culprit.

Try running a line directly to the rad from the pump and take a video or how far water shoots out. That will 100% nullify a rad problem. Rads are simple. They either pass water through them or they don't. Check all your tubing connections and make sure no lines are reversed.
post #46 of 68
Thread Starter 
No lines are reversed. The H60 block takes 1/4 inch hose so its going to drop to 1/4 at that point regardless.

The pump has a crazy amount of pressure. I have to secure the exhaust hose (returning to res) to the res or it will take off out of the res. Yes, its happened a couple times.....

Silly question, but the radiator input / output can be either direction right? I don't see either port saying anything regarding to flow. Just a thought.
post #47 of 68
just to be stupid did you remove the impellar from the block you don't want anything in there at all the would mess with water flow. But im thinking get a normal block and your temps should be fine. going down to 1/4" line is a massive restriction on water flow. But, you can test a little something here take the 240 rad and fill it with half and half water/vinegar and boil it out. if that doesnt dislodge anything nothing will. when I say boil I mean fill it then put it in a cake pan and fill the pan with the same mixture so it covers the radiator inlet/outlet ports put it in a 375degree oven for 30minutes to an hour. if there is anything in there it'll come lose. also when you fill that loop make sure to turn the radiator every possible way you can to get any lodged bubbles out of it. while he pump is running that should get any possible air bubbles out of it. almost sounds like a vapor lock to a point.
post #48 of 68
Thread Starter 
Yep, I completely disassembled the H60 pump. I removed the impeller from the magnetic ring, and I also removed the white rubber separator from the cold plate. Using a Res / H60 Block to Res water litterly blasts out back to the res. Honestly, I'm surprised the H60 block could even handle that much pressure without blowing a seal out.

Good idea with the 240 rad, I'll give that a shot. thumb.gif Oh yeah, I twist / shake / tap and angle the radiator in every possible direction to get air out.

The pump is 3/8 ID. Wouldn't running 3/8 to 1/4 (right off the pump) and then run 1/4in line for the rest of the loop increase pressure? I know it will restrict the total volume of water, but it will moving so quickly through the loop it wouldn't have time to heat up. Which brings me to my next question. Would having too much pressure reduce the radiator effectiveness? Moving water too quickly though the rad before the fans have a chance to cool it possibly?
Edited by *ka24e* - 3/16/12 at 6:50pm
post #49 of 68
Thread Starter 
Here's another head scratcher for you guys.

When the H60 block is secured down the the motherboard temps are high. Loosening the block to the point that I can move it, results in a very rapid drop in temps.... With the block loose, I can lightly push the H60 block down onto the CPU and temps shoot up. When I let go, temps return to normal. Huh..? From what I've always been told, you want a good amount of pressure against the CPU. Within reason of course.

What does that mean? I checked the backing plate and bracket, but nothing was loose or cracked. I re-applied AS5 several times and got the same result.

Loop components and order:

Reservoir with 330GPH pump / Corsair 120 Radiator / H60 CPU Block / Back to Reservoir
post #50 of 68
Thread Starter 
Btw, I've tried using more and less TIM as well as filliping the block around 180 degrees. Same result.
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