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Achieva Shimian Monitor Club - Page 2

post #11 of 3396
Still loving mine. If I can land a job I'll be getting 2 more and a nice desk to set them up on. My current desk is a corner/hutch style and the screen really doesn't fit well at all.

So far so good though. I may be starving myself food wise after blowing so much while out of work, but my eyes are sooooo happy. biggrin.gif
post #12 of 3396
never did get my monitor working. Bought a new cable and the same thing is occurring. Tested on a 6950 2gb as well as a 560ti. ***. It just sits at a blank screen (backlight on). Computer recognizes monitor, but no dice.
post #13 of 3396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dabho View Post

never did get my monitor working. Bought a new cable and the same thing is occurring. Tested on a 6950 2gb as well as a 560ti. ***. It just sits at a blank screen (backlight on). Computer recognizes monitor, but no dice.

Did you try to take it apart and re-seat the signal cable?

I've heard this happening to multiple people and that seems to be the fix.

At least that was the case with Catleaps, I believe it happened to someone's Achieva though.
Edited by jbuschdev - 3/14/12 at 6:05pm
post #14 of 3396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dabho View Post

never did get my monitor working. Bought a new cable and the same thing is occurring. Tested on a 6950 2gb as well as a 560ti. ***. It just sits at a blank screen (backlight on). Computer recognizes monitor, but no dice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbuschdev View Post

Did you try to take it apart and re-seat the signal cable?
I've heard this happening to multiple people and that seems to be the fix.
At least that was the case with Catleaps, I believe it happened to someone's Achieva though.

I think you should try this and if it still doesn't work you should contact the seller.
Gaming Rig
(23 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel Core i7 2600K Z68MX-UD2H-B3 Intel HD Graphics 3000 (GT2+) AMD Radeon HD 7900 Series 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveHard Drive
PNY GTX 670 Corsair Vengeance Seagate OCZ Vertex 2 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
OCZ Agility 4 LG BluRay Writer EK-Supreme HF Plexi Aquacomputer HD7970 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
MagiCool SLIM TRIPLE 420 XSPC C20 750  Phobya G-Silent 14 1100rpm Red LED Windows 7 Pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Achieva QH270 Lite Logitech K340 Corsair 850W NZXT Switch 810 White 
MouseMouse PadOther
Razor Naga Hex Roccat Taito Onkyo 380, 6 channels, 500W 
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Gaming Rig
(23 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel Core i7 2600K Z68MX-UD2H-B3 Intel HD Graphics 3000 (GT2+) AMD Radeon HD 7900 Series 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveHard Drive
PNY GTX 670 Corsair Vengeance Seagate OCZ Vertex 2 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
OCZ Agility 4 LG BluRay Writer EK-Supreme HF Plexi Aquacomputer HD7970 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
MagiCool SLIM TRIPLE 420 XSPC C20 750  Phobya G-Silent 14 1100rpm Red LED Windows 7 Pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Achieva QH270 Lite Logitech K340 Corsair 850W NZXT Switch 810 White 
MouseMouse PadOther
Razor Naga Hex Roccat Taito Onkyo 380, 6 channels, 500W 
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post #15 of 3396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbuschdev View Post

Did you try to take it apart and re-seat the signal cable?
I've heard this happening to multiple people and that seems to be the fix.
At least that was the case with Catleaps, I believe it happened to someone's Achieva though.

Anyone know how to disassemble? I tried but not sure how to get it apart.
post #16 of 3396
Thread Starter 
It's on the first page of this thread, "Stand Removal"

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club

Not exactly our monitor, but gives you an idea.
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Crucial M4 256GB Vertex 4 512GB 1 TB Black Caviar Noctua NH-D14 Achieva Shimian 27" 2560x1440 Kingwin Lazer Platinum LZP-550 550W  
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Silverstone SG09 
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Shhh!
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i7 2600k Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z EVGA GTX780 SuperClocked w/ ACX Cooler Corsair XMS3 2GB x 4 
Hard DriveCoolingMonitorPower
Crucial M4 256GB Vertex 4 512GB 1 TB Black Caviar Noctua NH-D14 Achieva Shimian 27" 2560x1440 Kingwin Lazer Platinum LZP-550 550W  
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Silverstone SG09 
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post #17 of 3396
Quote:
Originally Posted by adjas View Post

It's on the first page of this thread, "Stand Removal"
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club
Not exactly our monitor, but gives you an idea.

Thanks. Tried again but still couldn't get it open. Thinking I might just try to send it back frown.gif
post #18 of 3396
[H]ard forum member csshih did an input lag test on the model with the scaler, the Shimian IPSMS (link to original post).

And even when testing a non-native resolution, which often adds a few ms of lag to the score, he still pulled off a 16ms average = 1 frame of lag.

Quote:
Originally Posted by csshih 
I feel like an idiot. I went and sat down for a formal test and averaged results.[/B]

Anyways: new test setup, I don't have another native 1440P monitor so the panel's scalar feature *IS* kicking in.

I'm comparing with Dell U2312HMs which supposedly have an astoundingly low 0.6ms of input lag.

Here are the results.
225
I am using SMTT V2.0.4.0

This is the fully featured 10bit "QH270-IPSMS" (supposedly, I need to get a firepro/stream or quadro for that testing) version of all the ebay models with AD board(scaler), OCR, DCR(though it was off for this test), and has hdmi, vga, and dual link dvi (which was used for this test).

From this I can say that the input lag is 17ms - worst case. Not bad achieva, not bad. I'm one step closer to importing a crate.
of course, I'll be sending this unit out to a few gamer friends to test. the colors are wonderful, but this is [H]!


C
Great results imho, way better than any so called "gaming TV" and still competitive with other PC monitors that don't have a scaler. Console users take note.
Edited by SJetski71 - 3/17/12 at 5:39pm
post #19 of 3396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dabho View Post

Thanks. Tried again but still couldn't get it open. Thinking I might just try to send it back frown.gif

They open. I had to open mine to fix the bezel bowing at the top, stuck a few pennies inside under it to fix it...

Not the best fix, I know, but it worked.

Are they supposed to open, though? No, I don't think so. I definitely broke something (there was a very loud POP when I got the top open), but I broke it to "fix" another problem, so no big deal. Still works fine.

I'd advise against anyone trying to disassemble these specific displays, though. I'm not so sure the bezel would go back together if it was completely disassembled. They're either glued or screwed together, not sure which.
post #20 of 3396
I doubt they would design an LCD that couldn't be disassembled for repairs.

The most common is screws + little clips, and you use a pry tool of some sort to pop the clips/tabs . That's most likely the sound you heard, if you don't do it right they'll pop, sometimes break. But I could be wrong I don't have one of these in front of me
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