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post #1431 of 3171
8/31/12 at 5:23am
My Achieva Shimian has just arrived however I need some advice.

Due to my office layout my 600T SE is about 2.5 metres away from the actual screen. As a result earlier in the year I purchased a 3 metre dual link DVI cable (I specifically got a dual link cable as I knew I'd be getting an Achieva Shimian sooner or later).

However the monitor refuses to acknowledge this cable at all and the blue light just flashes. If I use the supplied cable then the monitor works fine but it's simply not long enough to use on an ongoing basis.

Is there a maximum length that a dual link cable can be or is the 3 metre cable I purchased earlier in the year faulty?
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post #1432 of 3171
8/31/12 at 5:42am
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Sounds like a bad cable indeed. Shouldn't be a problem with length I wouldn't think...
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post #1433 of 3171
8/31/12 at 7:01am
On further inspection my panel has a stuck (red) pixel pretty much right in the centre. It's only visible on black backgrounds but I'm annoyed all the same.

Are there any programs that actually work and can fix a stuck pixel?
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post #1434 of 3171
9/1/12 at 8:06am
I have jumped ship from the Potalion screen after the supplier had issues with stock. I now have a ShiMian QH270-Lite in the post, and it should be here on the 6th.
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post #1435 of 3171
9/1/12 at 10:21am
same here I'm expexting mines the same week, i was debating between the shimian and the crossover, but decided that to get the squaretrade warranty and since all of these korean monitors use the same a- Lg panels then what the heck is the difference, any ways i paid $350 for the shimian non perfect pixel, and if i would have gotten the crossover it would have been around $430, the only reason the crossover is more expensive is because of the stand and the bezel quality other than that same monitor
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post #1436 of 3171
9/1/12 at 2:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by silvinho21 View Post

same here I'm expexting mines the same week, i was debating between the shimian and the crossover, but decided that to get the squaretrade warranty and since all of these korean monitors use the same a- Lg panels then what the heck is the difference, any ways i paid $350 for the shimian non perfect pixel, and if i would have gotten the crossover it would have been around $430, the only reason the crossover is more expensive is because of the stand and the bezel quality other than that same monitor

I have absolutely zero complaints with my stand or bezel quality...

Truthfully the stand on this is better than what my Samsung Syncmaster had.
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post #1437 of 3171
9/1/12 at 3:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PostalTwinkie View Post

I have absolutely zero complaints with my stand or bezel quality...
Truthfully the stand on this is better than what my Samsung Syncmaster had.

The stand was no big deal at all.

I can only speak from my own experiences so let me begin...

The stand is alright. The QH270-Lite (do they call it the "Lite" because language barrier or marketing?) comes with two bronze-colored, Phillips head screws. The head requires a very broad tool, don't bring along your tiny screwdriver set thinking it will work perfectly. One of the screws felt like it cross-threading for the first turn or so, but it sorts itself out. I wouldn't call this substandard, I'd call it about standard. Added five minutes to the install because I had to go search the garage for the right tool. No big deal.

Also, my 220v converter from Dream-Seller does not get any hotter than any other converter box I have down there. Furthermore, it's way cooler than my old Dell laptop's power converter. Only cable you'll need is the converter to wall power cord. You can probably either reuse the cable from the old monitor, or, as I did, just find one laying around from an unknown source of antiquity, underneath the fish tank stand.

Booting into windows in a few seconds is actually pretty rad, but the monitor+video card combo was the bigger upgrade.

I conclude my brief review thusly.
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post #1438 of 3171
9/1/12 at 5:31pm
I placed an order for a white qh-270 with speakers and dvi-d from bigclothcraft.
It should get here next week!
So excited! biggrin.gif
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post #1439 of 3171
9/1/12 at 7:21pm
Sorry to repeat this, but I never quite got an answer.

I just got my Shimian from green-sum a few days ago. However, I'm pretty worried that the panel I got is DOA. The power brick (with the included power cable) works fine and the power brick's LED lights up. I tested the power brick (it's a Welltronics) with a multimeter and it outputs 25V as it should. However, as soon as I plug the power brick into the monitor, the power brick's LED goes out. What's more, the LED in the lower right corner of the monitor never turns on (it's not even red/blue/flashing) even when the power brick is plugged in. In short, the monitor refuses to power on. I have some pictures of what I'm talking about here on imgur.

I've tried fiddling with the buttons on the back, using a different power cable, and plugging the power brick into different wall outlets, but to no avail. Anybody have an ideas on what I might be doing wrong? Otherwise, is there anyone who can confirm my fears and definitively tell me that the panel is DOA?
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post #1440 of 3171
9/1/12 at 8:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeySeraph View Post

Sorry to repeat this, but I never quite got an answer.
I just got my Shimian from green-sum a few days ago. However, I'm pretty worried that the panel I got is DOA. The power brick (with the included power cable) works fine and the power brick's LED lights up. I tested the power brick (it's a Welltronics) with a multimeter and it outputs 25V as it should. However, as soon as I plug the power brick into the monitor, the power brick's LED goes out. What's more, the LED in the lower right corner of the monitor never turns on (it's not even red/blue/flashing) even when the power brick is plugged in. In short, the monitor refuses to power on. I have some pictures of what I'm talking about here on imgur.
I've tried fiddling with the buttons on the back, using a different power cable, and plugging the power brick into different wall outlets, but to no avail. Anybody have an ideas on what I might be doing wrong? Otherwise, is there anyone who can confirm my fears and definitively tell me that the panel is DOA?

Sounds like a short in the monitor somewhere. Bad luck man, better luck next time! thumb.gif
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