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Achieva Shimian Monitor Club - Page 218

post #2171 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigerhawk View Post

IT'S HEREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE biggrin.gif I'm just unboxing it now(taking pics along the way, dw) and setting it up.
That's exactly how mine came. Sucks you got the dust too, but it's not in the middle like mine. I haven't thought about opening it up, because I feel like I shouldn't have to on a new product and I'll probably end up breaking it somehow. Let us know how it goes if you do try to clean it.
post #2172 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpmxch View Post

That's exactly how mine came. Sucks you got the dust too, but it's not in the middle like mine. I haven't thought about opening it up, because I feel like I shouldn't have to on a new product and I'll probably end up breaking it somehow. Let us know how it goes if you do try to clean it.

To be honest, at this point I doubt I will. I actually tried to find it after reading your post and it took me a few seconds. It is so far away from the center of the screen that I haven't noticed it even once unless I am looking at a blank white screen(notepad or something)

Meh. I have pretty strong yellow tint all along the bottom though and a pretty good amount of backlight bleed at the top right. I hope the tint goes away with time.

Took me quite awhile to get my whites looking white instead of blue...TBH they still feel kind of blue but any further tweaking and they start to look red or green...
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post #2173 of 3508
Dang...my $298 tempered glass shimian that i got from green-sum is absolutely flawless. My brother ordered the same display as mine and his is perfect too.
post #2174 of 3508
Here's the dark spot right in the bottom left corner of my screen:



In most cases I don't see it, but it's still a little disconcerting.
post #2175 of 3508
I had some free time today so I went ahead and calibrated by monitor. A good calibration makes a HUGE difference on this monitor. I managed to get it almost dead on D65.

My system is using a GTX 560ti outputting 0-255 levels. The video controls in the Nvidia control panel are at their default setting (letting the player handle everything). The backlight had to be set manually, and on my monitor that meant setting it as low as it would go and then 10 clicks up for 120cd/m2 (35ftL) or 7 clicks for 85cd/m2 (25ftL). Obviously there are variations between monitors (even the same model), so I can't guarantee your results, but maybe these can help those looking for a profile to get them close enough. An i1 Display Pro was used to create these profiles, and the gamma is 2.2 for both of them.

35ftL - http://www.sendspace.com/file/wc6d7h

25ftL - http://www.sendspace.com/file/uy6k7d


FYI, SMPTE recommends a luminance between 25-35ftL for direct view displays, that's why I chose the luminance values I did. 35ftL is also the common industry standard for video and photo editing. 25ftL is ideal for movie watching in a pitch black room. If you are always using a lamp, or other light source, you'll probably be fine sticking to the 35ftL profile.
Edited by IronCamel - 10/11/12 at 8:42pm
post #2176 of 3508
Just purchased from BCC.

Nervous about this, but if it goes well then I will be buying another one later this month. biggrin.gif
    
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post #2177 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigerhawk View Post

Meh. I have pretty strong yellow tint all along the bottom though and a pretty good amount of backlight bleed at the top right. I hope the tint goes away with time.
Took me quite awhile to get my whites looking white instead of blue...TBH they still feel kind of blue but any further tweaking and they start to look red or green...

Mine doesn't have the yellow tint and the backlight is pretty even. My display is quite blue though, but thats because my hannsg had a warmer tone, so I need to get use to the cooler tone. How did you go about making your whites white?

I also want to update you guys on my situation. Bigclothcraft is legit. It took him one day to respond to my problem and he is asking me to return the monitor to him for an exchange. He is taking care of the all of the shipping charges. Now the problem is that i'm not sure if I should ask him for a different monitor and pay the difference. I was thinking the Lite version. I don't want to get stuck with another tempered glass version with dust problems.
post #2178 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by IronCamel View Post

I had some free time today so I went ahead and calibrated by monitor. A good calibration makes a HUGE difference on this monitor. I managed to get it almost dead on D65.
My system is using a GTX 560ti outputting 0-255 levels. The video controls in the Nvidia control panel are at their default setting (letting the player handle everything). The backlight had to be set manually, and on my monitor that meant setting it as low as it would go and then 10 clicks up for 120cd/m2 (35ftL) or 7 clicks for 85cd/m2 (25ftL). Obviously there are variations between monitors (even the same model), so I can't guarantee your results, but maybe these can help those looking for a profile to get them close enough. An i1 Display Pro was used to create these profiles, and the gamma is 2.2 for both of them.
35ftL - http://www.sendspace.com/file/wc6d7h
25ftL - http://www.sendspace.com/file/uy6k7d
FYI, SMPTE recommends a luminance between 25-35ftL for direct view displays, that's why I chose the luminance values I did. 35ftL is also the common industry standard for video and photo editing. 25ftL is ideal for movie watching in a pitch black room. If you are always using a lamp, or other light source, you'll probably be fine sticking to the 35ftL profile.

Just signed up to say thank you for your profiles!

I didn't think it would make a difference since I was quite happy with the default settings, but boy was I wrong ^^

Only after applied the ICM I noticed how off the colors were. If I had to guess I'd say they were way too greenish.

I used the 25ftl profile since 10 clicks is too bright for me :-) thumb.gif

Much easier on the eyes now awell.

edit:
oh and btw if someone by any chance doesn't know how to apply the ICM (like me), the answer to this question elaborates it quite nicely http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-desktop/cant-apply-an-icc-profile-to-display-cant/71b8d8e8-afa3-435a-aae4-6a8a184b6439

edit2:
just to add some info to this thread:

I bought my Lite from green-sum for $299 and it took 1 week to arrive since there was the Korean National Holiday in between. The box was secured by a layer of bubble wrap and showed no sign of damage!

Reading the current problems with the Crossover flickering and burned boards, it seems the Achieva is the safer bet atm. Unless this is also a common occurence with our Shimians ?
Edited by achievari - 10/11/12 at 11:53pm
post #2179 of 3508
Be sure to go to Control Panel>Color Management>Advanced>Change System Defaults>Advanced and check the box next to "Use Windows display calibration". It will keep the profile loaded automatically as long as you have it set as the default.
Edited by IronCamel - 10/12/12 at 12:15am
post #2180 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by IronCamel View Post

I had some free time today so I went ahead and calibrated by monitor. A good calibration makes a HUGE difference on this monitor. I managed to get it almost dead on D65.
My system is using a GTX 560ti outputting 0-255 levels. The video controls in the Nvidia control panel are at their default setting (letting the player handle everything). The backlight had to be set manually, and on my monitor that meant setting it as low as it would go and then 10 clicks up for 120cd/m2 (35ftL) or 7 clicks for 85cd/m2 (25ftL). Obviously there are variations between monitors (even the same model), so I can't guarantee your results, but maybe these can help those looking for a profile to get them close enough. An i1 Display Pro was used to create these profiles, and the gamma is 2.2 for both of them.
35ftL - http://www.sendspace.com/file/wc6d7h
25ftL - http://www.sendspace.com/file/uy6k7d
FYI, SMPTE recommends a luminance between 25-35ftL for direct view displays, that's why I chose the luminance values I did. 35ftL is also the common industry standard for video and photo editing. 25ftL is ideal for movie watching in a pitch black room. If you are always using a lamp, or other light source, you'll probably be fine sticking to the 35ftL profile.

thanks for posting these. i will try them out later today. i'm currently using a profile for a catleap.
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