Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › Achieva Shimian Monitor Club
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Achieva Shimian Monitor Club - Page 27

post #261 of 3508
Just put my new computer together with my new Shimian. I was planning on not buying a GPU and just using the motherboard, but the screen I have is blank unless I'm in safe mode or unless I uninstall the display driver. Looks like I'm also in the market for a cheap GPU. Is nvidia the only ones that work? Anyone have any specific suggestions? Anyone find any other fixes for this problem?

The screen is beautiful. Well worth the money. There are a few dead pixels, but they are barely noticeable. My stand makes the screen tilt forward a bit but since my monitor is a bit high it doesn't bother me much.
post #262 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacr27 View Post

Just put my new computer together with my new Shimian. I was planning on not buying a GPU and just using the motherboard, but the screen I have is blank unless I'm in safe mode or unless I uninstall the display driver. Looks like I'm also in the market for a cheap GPU. Is nvidia the only ones that work? Anyone have any specific suggestions? Anyone find any other fixes for this problem?
The screen is beautiful. Well worth the money. There are a few dead pixels, but they are barely noticeable. My stand makes the screen tilt forward a bit but since my monitor is a bit high it doesn't bother me much.

Most motherboards don't have dual link DVI, only single so unfortunately it won't work.

All you need is a graphics card which does dual link DVI output, which is most. ATi or Nvidia will work, although some ATi cards doesn't show the BIOS screen for some reason.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD A6-3500 Asus F1A75-I Deluxe HD6530D (Integrated Llano) 8GB Kingston 1400Mhz CL8 DDR3 
Hard DriveHard DriveOSMonitor
Crucial M4 64GB SSD WD Scorpio Black 250GB 2.5" Windows 7 Home Premium 64Bit Asus VS239H 23" IPS Monitor 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech Illuminated Keyboard 120W PicoPSU + Adapter MS-Tech CI-70 ITX Logitech M510 
Audio
FiiO E10 -> Edifier R1600T Plus 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD A6-3500 Asus F1A75-I Deluxe HD6530D (Integrated Llano) 8GB Kingston 1400Mhz CL8 DDR3 
Hard DriveHard DriveOSMonitor
Crucial M4 64GB SSD WD Scorpio Black 250GB 2.5" Windows 7 Home Premium 64Bit Asus VS239H 23" IPS Monitor 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech Illuminated Keyboard 120W PicoPSU + Adapter MS-Tech CI-70 ITX Logitech M510 
Audio
FiiO E10 -> Edifier R1600T Plus 
  hide details  
Reply
post #263 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by waylo88 View Post

Is there any way to overclock the Shimian? Mine shows 60Hz in nVidia Control Panel. I'd like to be able to see if it can go any higher at all.

The only way to overclock the ShiMian is to attach a PCB on it similar to, if not the actual PCBs found on a Yamakasi Catleap Q270 "2B" Model. As of the moment those PCBs aren't being sold seperately, nor is there a guide on how to switch out PCBs. I'm assuming you knew that ShiMians can't be overclocked when you bought one, it's indicated on the first page of the review on the Korean Monitors found on this forum.

Wait around though, Someone might find a way to fabricate his own version of the 2B PCB. We might even see those PCBs for sale one day. cheers.gif Here's to wishful thinking!
Edited by gsv883 - 5/7/12 at 12:50am
post #264 of 3508
Hi ..
after a weird route for my shimian to set on my desktop (FedEx)
3L6xA.jpg

At last I have it!
As far as I can see: no dead/stuck pixels
But there are yellow tint on the bottom of the screen
I know it's common problem (even on Apple cinema display), so I searched google about this problem and found something interesting on another forum :
Code:
Posted by Gizmodo.com
What Could Be Wrong?
The same reader who tested the colour temperatures of his yellow iMac display last week – and coincidentally fixed his jaundiced iMac without knowing how he did it – thinks he may have figured out the issue:

I now am fairly certain that the yellowing of the display is a manufacturing defect involving the distance between a layer of material used to diffuse the LED backlight and the LCD panel. To show a perfectly even colour, this light scattering panel has to be absolutely flat and free of any warping, kinking, or thickness defects. It is this layer that I believe is at fault, and causes the colour to drift and give the perception of yellow stripes, fields, and corners.

This would be absolutely consistent with the reports of horizontal and vertical stripes (a vertical or horizontal kink) or corners (a bad tuck). I believe these defects may not appear in the factory. Rather, with the rough handling the monitors receive when shipped this layer gets knocked out of alignment.
Code:
It also explains why my careful assembly and dis-assembly resulted in the yellowing disappearing. By being cautious, I basically returned the monitors to the original factory state of perfect alignment.

so.. I'm curious if this careful assembly and dis-assembly will cure the yellowing tint of my monitor
I'm not in rush, but I hope I can fix it by myself rather than retuning it to korea!
The problem is that I don't have the experience for this task and afraid of something goes wrong, so I just want to share my findings here to someone who have this problem and he know how to open the monitor in the proper way so he can make some tutorial for all of us..

thank you..
post #265 of 3508
Still no tracking info for me , getting annoyed .......
I bought mine on 3Rd may , listing says that it will be posted within 1 day but 4 days later it's still not posted.
Had i known it's going to take a week to even post it I'd buy it from some other seller. mad.gif

P.S I got mine from bighclothcraft
Edited by RobotDevil666 - 5/7/12 at 11:10am
Devils Minion
(22 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 6700K @4.5 Ghz Gigabyte Z170Z Gaming 7 Nvidia GTX 1080Ti 16GB G-Skill DDR4  
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 EVO 512 Seagate 3TB 7200RPM HDD Hitachi 3TB 5400 RPM HDD Samsung 951 NVMe 512GB  
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Supremacy  2x XSPC 240 Rad XSPC Vario D5 XSPS Reservoir 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
2X EK GTX1080 Waterblock Windows 10 Pro x64 Acer Predator X34 3440x1440  Logitech G910 Orion Spark 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair RM1000x Be Quiet Dark Rock 900 Pro Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum Steel Series H Wireless 
  hide details  
Reply
Devils Minion
(22 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 6700K @4.5 Ghz Gigabyte Z170Z Gaming 7 Nvidia GTX 1080Ti 16GB G-Skill DDR4  
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 EVO 512 Seagate 3TB 7200RPM HDD Hitachi 3TB 5400 RPM HDD Samsung 951 NVMe 512GB  
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Supremacy  2x XSPC 240 Rad XSPC Vario D5 XSPS Reservoir 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
2X EK GTX1080 Waterblock Windows 10 Pro x64 Acer Predator X34 3440x1440  Logitech G910 Orion Spark 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair RM1000x Be Quiet Dark Rock 900 Pro Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum Steel Series H Wireless 
  hide details  
Reply
post #266 of 3508
This is what I do when the Shimian Lite is not displaying video after a reboot:

1. Turn off the computer.
2. Unplug the power cable from the Shimian power brick for a few seconds.
3. Re-attach the power cable to the brick.
4. Power on the computer.

When Windows load, the Shimian power LED flashes red once (never orange) and stays sold blue as the screen comes on.
post #267 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by ameer View Post


At last I have it!
As far as I can see: no dead/stuck pixels
But there are yellow tint on the bottom of the screen
I know it's common problem (even on Apple cinema display), so I searched google about this problem and found something interesting on another forum :
Code:
Posted by Gizmodo.com
What Could Be Wrong?
The same reader who tested the colour temperatures of his yellow iMac display last week – and coincidentally fixed his jaundiced iMac without knowing how he did it – thinks he may have figured out the issue:
I now am fairly certain that the yellowing of the display is a manufacturing defect involving the distance between a layer of material used to diffuse the LED backlight and the LCD panel. To show a perfectly even colour, this light scattering panel has to be absolutely flat and free of any warping, kinking, or thickness defects. It is this layer that I believe is at fault, and causes the colour to drift and give the perception of yellow stripes, fields, and corners.
This would be absolutely consistent with the reports of horizontal and vertical stripes (a vertical or horizontal kink) or corners (a bad tuck). I believe these defects may not appear in the factory. Rather, with the rough handling the monitors receive when shipped this layer gets knocked out of alignment.
Code:
It also explains why my careful assembly and dis-assembly resulted in the yellowing disappearing. By being cautious, I basically returned the monitors to the original factory state of perfect alignment.
so.. I'm curious if this careful assembly and dis-assembly will cure the yellowing tint of my monitor
I'm not in rush, but I hope I can fix it by myself rather than retuning it to korea!
The problem is that I don't have the experience for this task and afraid of something goes wrong, so I just want to share my findings here to someone who have this problem and he know how to open the monitor in the proper way so he can make some tutorial for all of us..
thank you..

I have the exact same problem! Flawless monitor, except for the same tinting problem unfortunately... In the top of the screen everything is perfect, but when you start staring down, graduately it becomes more yellow-ish.
It sounds like a reasonable explanation, but I am also a bit scared to open it up and maybe mess it more than what it is now...

Would like to see it fixed though...
post #268 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stab View Post

I have the exact same problem! Flawless monitor, except for the same tinting problem unfortunately... In the top of the screen everything is perfect, but when you start staring down, graduately it becomes more yellow-ish.
It sounds like a reasonable explanation, but I am also a bit scared to open it up and maybe mess it more than what it is now...
Would like to see it fixed though...

CharlesK (on the 3rd page) explained how to open it
but I don't know where exactly the LEDs that I need to re-adjust (and whether it's easy task or not)
post #269 of 3508
My monitor was like that when I first hooked it up. The bottom...quarter of the screen maybe, had a yellowish tint. Nothing bad though, but slightly noticeable on a white background. I didn't do anything to my monitor aside from leave it on for a few hours and most of it seemed to disappear. Its still there, but you can barely (and I mean barely) see it now. I'd say it diminished by roughly 80%.
KOKAYNE DAWKiNS
(16 items)
 
  
Reply
KOKAYNE DAWKiNS
(16 items)
 
  
Reply
post #270 of 3508
Its here!!! biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif
It got here a day before the fedex estimate, was only in the standard box but after the distance it traveled there was very litte wear and no damage on the box. After a quick set and test all seems to be good, cant see any dead pixels and no light bleed or discolouring.
So all in all very happy with only one problem, my other monitors now look like crap rolleyes.gif so might have to get another one.

Summary for those that dont read every post.
I ordered a Shimian QH270-IPSBS (No glass, 1 dvi-d and speakers)
Ordered from ta_planet on ebay for £222 on a Wednesday evening and received the monitor the following Tuesday (and that was over a Bank holiday weekend).
Loki
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Phenom II X4 970 Crosshair IV Formula asus 7970 G.Skill Ripjaw 
RAMCoolingOSMonitor
G.Skill Ripjaw NHD-14 Windows 7 64 Bit Ultimate Shimian 27 IPS 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Acer s243hlbmii crappy Microsoft Corsair HX 850 Corsair 800D 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Logitach G5 Ozone Onboard Creative  
  hide details  
Reply
Loki
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Phenom II X4 970 Crosshair IV Formula asus 7970 G.Skill Ripjaw 
RAMCoolingOSMonitor
G.Skill Ripjaw NHD-14 Windows 7 64 Bit Ultimate Shimian 27 IPS 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Acer s243hlbmii crappy Microsoft Corsair HX 850 Corsair 800D 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Logitach G5 Ozone Onboard Creative  
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Monitors and Displays
Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › Achieva Shimian Monitor Club