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Achieva Shimian Monitor Club

570K views 4K replies 684 participants last post by  pgfilmla 
#1 ·
#2 ·
Just got my Shimian with Tempered Glass (and I'm in love) it looks awesome, and no dust or dead pixels that I can see (I haven't done a test, just playing games and reading web pages don't notice anything)

I ordered 2 monitors, one for me and one for my buddy.

450

They came heavily well bubble wrapped

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No damage to the inner monitor carton

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This is the 27" compared to my present (now former) 24"

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How the stand fits and looks (it is a bit wobbly, but does the job, not a fan though)

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Notice my Skyrim 1920x1200 resolution wallpaper, it looks tiny in that 27" monitor, got to love the 2560x1440 resolution

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I ordered this from "Dc_Samsungmall". I really wanted the Fed-ex delivery and the tempered glass.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACHIEVA-Shimian-QH270-IPSB-Quad-HD-2560x1440-16-9-D-Sub-Computer-Monitor-/190645588882?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item2c635cd392#ht_4039wt_1163

Enough posting, now for some gaming!!!
 
#3 ·
Just got my shimian but can't get anything to display. On a i5 2500k with a sapphire 6950 2gb... the screen goes "black" with the backlight on but doesn't do anything else. Windows seems to recognize the monitor, but nothing
frown.gif


Any suggestions?

Edit: same thing happening on roommates computer who also has a 6950 2gb...
 
#5 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by adjas View Post

Try different cables maybe, though the one that came with the monitor worked for me (Dual-DVI).
Only have one dvi-d cable... tried every configuration of power up (computer first then monitor, monitor then computer, both at same time, ect ect
edit: cable displays fine to other monitors, running those at 1080p though, don't know if that would make a diff.
 
#6 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by dabho View Post

Only have one dvi-d cable... tried every configuration of power up (computer first then monitor, monitor then computer, both at same time, ect ect
edit: cable displays fine to other monitors, running those at 1080p though, don't know if that would make a diff.
I also have a HD6950 2GB (Powercolor) and my screen arrived today but I wasn't at home to accept it. I will test it tomorrow and let you know if I encounter same problems. I can also test if the DP to dual link adapter works which could be an alternative.

Cheers
 
#8 ·
I'm a happy owner of an Achieva Shimian QH270 Display.
400

As you can see it didn't came bubble wrapped but the box was in good condition

400

400

The power adapter seems to be limited to 230V 50/60 Hz which in my case is not a problem.

400

There is not obvious back-light bleeding and I didn't saw any dead/stuck/bright pixels. (the bright line is a reflection
smile.gif
)

It worked out off the box with a Powercolor HD6950@6970 graphic card. I also can see boot text and bios settings. I managed to hook up my set top box with a HDMI>DVI cable but PS3 doesn't work.
 
#11 ·
Still loving mine. If I can land a job I'll be getting 2 more and a nice desk to set them up on. My current desk is a corner/hutch style and the screen really doesn't fit well at all.

So far so good though. I may be starving myself food wise after blowing so much while out of work, but my eyes are sooooo happy.
biggrin.gif
 
#13 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by dabho View Post

never did get my monitor working. Bought a new cable and the same thing is occurring. Tested on a 6950 2gb as well as a 560ti. ***. It just sits at a blank screen (backlight on). Computer recognizes monitor, but no dice.
Did you try to take it apart and re-seat the signal cable?

I've heard this happening to multiple people and that seems to be the fix.

At least that was the case with Catleaps, I believe it happened to someone's Achieva though.
 
#14 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by dabho View Post

never did get my monitor working. Bought a new cable and the same thing is occurring. Tested on a 6950 2gb as well as a 560ti. ***. It just sits at a blank screen (backlight on). Computer recognizes monitor, but no dice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbuschdev View Post

Did you try to take it apart and re-seat the signal cable?
I've heard this happening to multiple people and that seems to be the fix.
At least that was the case with Catleaps, I believe it happened to someone's Achieva though.
I think you should try this and if it still doesn't work you should contact the seller.
 
#15 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbuschdev View Post

Did you try to take it apart and re-seat the signal cable?
I've heard this happening to multiple people and that seems to be the fix.
At least that was the case with Catleaps, I believe it happened to someone's Achieva though.
Anyone know how to disassemble? I tried but not sure how to get it apart.
 
#18 ·
[H]ard forum member csshih did an input lag test on the model with the scaler, the Shimian IPSMS (link to original post).

And even when testing a non-native resolution, which often adds a few ms of lag to the score, he still pulled off a 16ms average = 1 frame of lag.

Quote:
Originally Posted by csshih
I feel like an idiot. I went and sat down for a formal test and averaged results.[/B]

Anyways: new test setup, I don't have another native 1440P monitor so the panel's scalar feature *IS* kicking in.

I'm comparing with Dell U2312HMs which supposedly have an astoundingly low 0.6ms of input lag.

Here are the results.
225
I am using SMTT V2.0.4.0

This is the fully featured 10bit "QH270-IPSMS" (supposedly, I need to get a firepro/stream or quadro for that testing) version of all the ebay models with AD board(scaler), OCR, DCR(though it was off for this test), and has hdmi, vga, and dual link dvi (which was used for this test).

From this I can say that the input lag is 17ms - worst case. Not bad achieva, not bad. I'm one step closer to importing a crate.
of course, I'll be sending this unit out to a few gamer friends to test. the colors are wonderful, but this is [H]!

C
Great results imho, way better than any so called "gaming TV" and still competitive with other PC monitors that don't have a scaler. Console users take note.
 
#19 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by dabho View Post

Thanks. Tried again but still couldn't get it open. Thinking I might just try to send it back
frown.gif
They open. I had to open mine to fix the bezel bowing at the top, stuck a few pennies inside under it to fix it...

Not the best fix, I know, but it worked.

Are they supposed to open, though? No, I don't think so. I definitely broke something (there was a very loud POP when I got the top open), but I broke it to "fix" another problem, so no big deal. Still works fine.

I'd advise against anyone trying to disassemble these specific displays, though. I'm not so sure the bezel would go back together if it was completely disassembled. They're either glued or screwed together, not sure which.
 
#20 ·
I doubt they would design an LCD that couldn't be disassembled for repairs.

The most common is screws + little clips, and you use a pry tool of some sort to pop the clips/tabs . That's most likely the sound you heard, if you don't do it right they'll pop, sometimes break. But I could be wrong I don't have one of these in front of me
 
#21 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbuschdev View Post

I doubt they would design an LCD that couldn't be disassembled for repairs.
The most common is screws + little clips, and you use a pry tool of some sort to pop the clips/tabs . That's most likely the sound you heard, if you don't do it right they'll pop, sometimes break. But I could be wrong I don't have one of these in front of me
I think I've figured it out, actually.

Opening the top portion of the display seems to have broken a screw loose, which seems to be attached from front to back (head facing towards me while I'm sitting down). The only way to access the head of this screw would be to remove the black bezel around the front of the panel itself, so perhaps that is how it's supposed to be done.

edit; Yup, just pried it open. That did it.

Seems like it's glued down too, though... =/

another edit:

Glue doesn't seem to matter. There are clips too, so you could easily pry it away and just clip it back on.
 
#23 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by ibtar View Post

I think I've figured it out, actually.
Opening the top portion of the display seems to have broken a screw loose, which seems to be attached from front to back (head facing towards me while I'm sitting down). The only way to access the head of this screw would be to remove the black bezel around the front of the panel itself, so perhaps that is how it's supposed to be done.
edit; Yup, just pried it open. That did it.
Seems like it's glued down too, though... =/
another edit:
Glue doesn't seem to matter. There are clips too, so you could easily pry it away and just clip it back on.
Where did you put the pry, between the withe and black bezel ? like you I have the bowing top bezel, I also want to open it to find what I can do about the buzzing sound that my screen does, hopefully it will be some coils vibrating that I can glue to shut them up
 
#24 ·
FYI from a friend who got his No-tempered-glass but with speakers version:
Quote:
Got it situated and DUal DVI in and......................black screen. Switched ports on the ATI 5870 and................. black screen. Yes backlight was showing and blue on with data present steady on. Heart sinking.
Switched to secondary card ATI 5770 and DVI port only with different DUal Cord............... black screen. Went online to the overclock url (thanks BB) and tried to find where I remembered reading some guy with same issue. The subject is about 500 pages now so held off after 200 or so. One guy said he opened it up and re-seated all ribbons etc. Made sense, was about to do that (didn't want to) when I said to myself, "Ok, let's just try all my best DUal DVI known good cords. Took the 5 all top rated and in use known good and tried first 3 with a no go. Took the 4th which is a 20 foot double sheilded thick wrapped monster and coiled it through. BANG!, works immediately. Tried 5th that was just yer average DUal DVI looking rather like the other 3 7 footers, worked fine.

So she is a bit picky on the cord........make a note.
BB
 
#25 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesK View Post

Where did you put the pry, between the withe and black bezel ? like you I have the bowing top bezel, I also want to open it to find what I can do about the buzzing sound that my screen does, hopefully it will be some coils vibrating that I can glue to shut them up
I started in the bottom right corner. It's easier to pry open if you do it from the inside where the black bezel meets the panel, rather than the outside where the white bezel is. It should just pop off after that. Mine was only glued along the bottom, the rest was just attached with clips.

To fix the bowing top bezel I just wrapped a small piece of tape around 5 or 6 stacked pennies (to hold them together) and then stuck it under the bezel, on top of the panel itself. It closed up just fine after that and straightened out the top of the panel perfectly.
 
#26 ·
thanks for the answer
thumb.gif
, actually , i did it yesterday the way you just described it.

I made a little tutorial for disassembling and fixing the buzzing sound :
(hope my english is good enough
biggrin.gif
)

The first and hardest part is to separate the black bezel from the white one, the problem is that they are clipped and glued with double sided tape. You need to separate them in order to access to the screws that attach the white bezel to the housing.

(I made the photos during reassembling).

401

It is easier to pull it out if you do it from the inner side of the bezel, but you need to be very careful to not harm the panel, there is glue only at the bottom, and a little on the sides, so once you've pried open the botom, you're done. (uncliping is easy)

Now you have this :

401

just unscrew the screws
tongue.gif


401

and then unclip the white bezel (from the outside of the bezel)

Now these 2 screws are the only ones that attach the panel to the housing :

401

lift up a little the panel from the botom or right side and you'll see the internal and where to unplug the cables to completely separate the panel from the housing.

Now, for fixing the buzzing sound :

the panel pcb (where are the buzzing chokes) is behind this :

401

I did not take a photo, but it's nearly the same as the catleap one (photo from ScribbyDaGreat) :

348
edit : better with some paint works
tongue.gif


We can see one, the component with "220" written upside-down, the other one is hidden under the little black square foam, cover them with epoxy, and it will shut them up. 100% success on my monitor which now is deadly silent.
 
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