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Achieva Shimian Monitor Club - Page 90

post #891 of 3508
yes i've also seen that profile around which supposedly gets rid of the blue dominance but all it does for my monitor batch is make it have a HUGE red dominance instead. i've used one profile and it lightens up the blue dominance just a tad bit. it's pretty annoying when i'm looking at a white background compared to the white background on my dell u2410. white looks like white on the dell while the white looks white-blue on my korean monitor.

i have the qh270-lite so i dont have any OSD to change the colors sadsmiley.gif
    
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post #892 of 3508
Got mine today from ta_planet. In brief ... It's excellent! Subjectively, I've seen fewer people reporting problems recently, so maybe the manufactures are producing better gear, or maybe I was just lucky?!

Bought the normal Shimian QH270-Lite for $307
Pixels - all good!
back-light bleed - none or very little
top bezel "sag" - none
monitor stand - straight and balanced

Colors looked more or less alright out of the box, but they look great after I loaded in ToastyX's "catleap-d65.icm" profile and followed his suggestions for brightness. Plan on getting a calibration tool someday, but a good quality printer & display calibrator is more expensive then this monitor!
Found a site called "interfacelift" and have started downloading 2560x1440 wallpapers. Lot's of really good ones.

Thanks for the folks posting their thoughts and reviews.
I'll briefly share my purchase decision process--based on reading many posts--in case it helps anyone still "on the fence."
  • Forum consensus is that "perfect pixel" is over-rated.
  • With the demise of the 100 MHz Catleaps, model choice is no longer so important.
    • I'm fairly technically inclined so I wasn't put off on getting a Catleap and, if necessary, changing the stand.
  • Looked at all the top sellers on eBay.
    • Most offer some type of inspection and will not send you a monitor with more than 5 dead pixels.
    • Choose ta_planet and the Shimian QH270-Lite purely because--for this model and this model only--ta_planet will not send you a monitor with more than 3 dead pixels.

That's it. I wasn't bothered about which model to get and I figured a Shimian QH270-Lite with 3 max dead pixels is better than any other model with 5 max dead pixels. In the end I got a monitor with no dead pixels ... which is what we all want! The Shimian QH270-Lite stand is stronger than it looks and it's "design aesthetics" don't bother me. You really don't see anything, besides this mesmerizing screen anyway.

Good luck to all future buyers and as many have said already, this is one of the best hardware purchases I've ever made!
Brilliant!
post #893 of 3508
Finally found a micro cloth that can clean the non-glass screens without leaving streaks:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120943109086?var=420083547923&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Cheap but HUGE 40-inch so you will need to cut it in quarters. I tried 5 different cloths before this one. Best performance was to buff in circular motion.
post #894 of 3508
Been lurking for a while - nice thread. Just ordered a QH270. Someone bought one for use with a Mac mini, eventually figured it out it won't work with the mini without an adapter, and then listed it on ebay. I had been leaning towards getting a multi input version but the price on this was too good to pass up. Supposedly no dead pixels. Its going to arrive on Tuesday - can't wait. Currently have a GeForce 210 video card, specs say it should work, but I ordered an ATI 5450 from Newegg just in case.

Are most people using the stand that comes with the monitor or using a 3rd party stand? I am using the V7 DS1S Display Stand with my Planar 27" monitor but this stand seems to be out of stock everywhere.
post #895 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by snaimpally View Post

Been lurking for a while - nice thread. Just ordered a QH270. Someone bought one for use with a Mac mini, eventually figured it out it won't work with the mini without an adapter, and then listed it on ebay. I had been leaning towards getting a multi input version but the price on this was too good to pass up. Supposedly no dead pixels. Its going to arrive on Tuesday - can't wait. Currently have a GeForce 210 video card, specs say it should work, but I ordered an ATI 5450 from Newegg just in case.
Are most people using the stand that comes with the monitor or using a 3rd party stand? I am using the V7 DS1S Display Stand with my Planar 27" monitor but this stand seems to be out of stock everywhere.

I'm using the stand that it came with for now.. It works fine thumb.gif
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post #896 of 3508
I think the ShiMian stand is fine. It's not wobbly on neither of my 2 ShiMians, and I actually like its design. And it does tilt, but it helps to start tilting it before placing the monitor on your desk. I'm not sure how this whole "ShiMian stand is bad" reputation started - it's not any more tacky than CrossOver 27Q LED (white and black) - even nicer, in my opinion. Good height as well, as 27Q LED seemed too close to my desk, but the ShiMians are perfect.
   
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post #897 of 3508
I would wait and use the default stand before spending the $$$ for a new stand. Unless the fixed height bothers you it's probably not worth it.

I got one from monoprice that has a similar design to the V7:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2

It's $30 after shipping. You have to use the included Allen wrenches to adjust the height or tilt stifness so don't expect to easily adjust it.
post #898 of 3508
Thanks for all the responses. Good to know the stand that comes with it is decent. I'll wait and try it out before getting anything.

Just curious, has anyone used the EVGA GeForce 210 with one of these? It says max res is 2560 x 1600 and that it supports dual link DVI so theoretically should work. Currently have it my Hackintosh.
post #899 of 3508
this thread along with the cat leap thread convinced me to pick one of these units up to test out for our cad workstations. anyway.. i really appreciated all the info in these threads so i thought i should post my experience since its fairly rare for these units to be defective from the get go.

long story short, i got a bad unit, but was able to fix it with the help of the seller 'redcap' , whom i highly recommend at this point.


initially the unit arrived in pristine condition, however it never powered on out of the box. the seller says he tests all of the units prior to shipping them out, and im inclined to believe him. but for whatever reason the unit was just DOA...no hint of power, no bezel LED nothing.
its worth noting that im like 60% sure i could just barely smell that oh so familiar burnt up electronics smell mingled with the overpowering new plastic smell. like i said im not 100% sure so take that with a grain of salt, but im inclined to go with my nose on this one as you read on you'll see why

i went back and forth with the seller a few times. he had me buy a 120 power brick... no big deal, i explained that i had measured the output on several occasions, but what ever. he had try it on a diff pc, different cables etc. etc. and after all this, he asked me if i could dissemble the unit to check for loose connections.
i mentioned that i was concerned with damaging the unit, and not being able to get a replacement, but he seemed willing to take it back regardless, but dont hold me to that. anyway the unit comes apart like cake, but note that its not my first rodeo with taking **** apart. i wont go into the minutia of how it comes apart... im assuming that that's covered to hell and back in between the catleap and this thread. but ill link the dropbox folder for anyone interested. id be happy to go into the particulars if anyone needs.


anyway, there were no loose connections, so i removed the lg display assembly, and examined the pcb that handles the power and dvi input under a usb powered cheapo microscope and noted these defects.

Image5.jpg

note this bit of funky solder...

Image6.jpg

heres the chip in question after i q-tiped it with some flux cleaner.

Image7.jpg

turns out this chip is a teeny tiny eeprom. up untill now i was hoping for an obvious bad solder joint or bad cap or something i could fix with an iron. obviously a blown eeprom is a deal breaker even if i could get a new chip with the proper code flashed or w/e, the leads are entirely too small to solder without fairly specialized soldering tools that are beyond my little hakko 888's ability. naturally i assumed i would have to ship it back to the seller at a steep cost.... however! and here is what i really appreciated about redcap, he was able to contact the company and get a replacement PCB shiped to me for free.

it arrived like 3 days later.
note that this is apparently an earlier revision to the failed PCB.
image004.jpg

no microscope shots, but this thing also had some bits of funky solder here and there.
while i wouldn't call it a bad solder job... but its not great.
i have some PCBs that came out of some super old HACH analytical instruments that i always look to when i want to compare my hack soldering skills to something ideal.

regardless, this new pcb works great... sorry i dont know squat about photography. consequently the image is a weird color. i typically just leave my camera on auto and deal with the bad photos.
image002-1.jpg

...and i couldn't be more happy with the unit, for 300 bucks a 27" IPS is an astonishingly good deal considering back in 2002-3 i payed like 600 bucks for a 21" dell ultrasharp with less than half the pixles this thing has.

no dead pixles or anything, the only problem i have noticed so far is that, it seems like the lower left and to a lesser extent the lower right bleed a bit. it actually seems like the light bleed gets worse if the unit is powered on for a while? idk if thats the case or just my imagination tho. i dont care tho, this units for a civil3d workstation, and not going to be subject to alot of dark screens or anything like that.


FWIW with respect to the failed PCB. im no EE, but the only thing i can think of, short of damage in transit, is that i accidentally reversed the polarity of the power connection on the monitor while i was fumbling the funky kycon power connector, however its important to note that the kycons like almost ALL power connectors are specifically designed to be mechanically unable to reverse the polarity. the pins are oriented such that they will not mate with the wrong socket, so im farily confident this didn't occur.

but IDK , id atleast suggest being carefull while you plug it in... you never know.

heres a link to the album for anyone interested.
Edited by Queeuqeg152 - 7/15/12 at 12:52am
post #900 of 3508
Interesting story, thanks for sharing - glad you got your monitor to work after all.

Could you share how you ended up removing the bezel? Did you have a regular non glass model, or was it with tempered glass? I'm hoping for more safe glass removal tips, beyond that one thread, which didn't help in my case.
   
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