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Achieva Shimian Monitor Club - Page 91

post #901 of 3508
Wow , nice work there! .. and how refreshing to see someone using using their PC for something other than gaming!! thumb.gif

I have a problem though!

I wonder if anyone here is using an ASUS HD 6950 DirectCU II 1G model with their Shimian!
I bought one off that well known auction site the other day and it doesn't even power it up .. yet it works fine on a smaller LCD which is a pain.

Can anyone think of a reason why it wouldn't work??
     
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post #902 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey View Post

Wow , nice work there! .. and how refreshing to see someone using using their PC for something other than gaming!! thumb.gif
I have a problem though!
I wonder if anyone here is using an ASUS HD 6950 DirectCU II 1G model with their Shimian!
I bought one off that well known auction site the other day and it doesn't even power it up .. yet it works fine on a smaller LCD which is a pain.
Can anyone think of a reason why it wouldn't work??

Some standard troubleshooting questions for these monitors:

Are you plugging in your ShiMian into DVI Port 1 of your card? (if there are more than one. With some cards, there's no output when this monitor's plugged in to Port 2, like my old HD 4850)

Have you checked all the cable connections are secure and well-inserted?

Are you running any other monitors/projectors off your graphics card or integrated GPU? (if so, disconnect them for now and add later)

When you turn on your monitor with its power button, does he light turn blue briefly and then switch to solid red? If so, your monitor turns on but does not receive signal from your graphics card, so check all of the above.

Is your power brick light a solid green?
   
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post #903 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElevenEleven View Post

Interesting story, thanks for sharing - glad you got your monitor to work after all.
Could you share how you ended up removing the bezel? Did you have a regular non glass model, or was it with tempered glass? I'm hoping for more safe glass removal tips, beyond that one thread, which didn't help in my case.

mine had no glass covering the display.

here is how i went abut removing the bezel.
image006-1.jpg

i just slipped my dental card between the actual display assembly and the white frame of the monitor. then a used one of these things...
image007-1.jpg

idk what it is exactly... i understand its used for car interior work, but i dont know anything about it be beyond that.

anyway i worked that thing in between the the white frame and the black bezel. you must not try to pry at the white framing. this part is screwed down through the display assembly and into the back black frameing behind the monitor.

if you pry at it you will strip out the screws. i know this because i damaged a screw and had to spend some time fixing it.
post #904 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElevenEleven View Post

Some standard troubleshooting questions for these monitors:
Are you plugging in your ShiMian into DVI Port 1 of your card? (if there are more than one. With some cards, there's no output when this monitor's plugged in to Port 2, like my old HD 4850)
Have you checked all the cable connections are secure and well-inserted?
Are you running any other monitors/projectors off your graphics card or integrated GPU? (if so, disconnect them for now and add later)
When you turn on your monitor with its power button, does he light turn blue briefly and then switch to solid red? If so, your monitor turns on but does not receive signal from your graphics card, so check all of the above.
Is your power brick light a solid green?

It's OK , I found out what the problem was. There's a tiny DIP switch on top of the card that enabled the Dual DVI connector , toggles it between single/dual apparently!

All sorted now.
     
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post #905 of 3508
Hi guys, thinking about purchasing 2 of these. One for pure pc dual-dvi and the other model IPSMS I think with hdmi for PS3. Is the input lag noticeable for PS3 gaming? And are the graphics ok?

Just wondering on those 2 points before pulling the plug?

Thanks guys thumb.gif
TKC Iron Man
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TKC Iron Man
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post #906 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by KidCastro View Post

Hi guys, thinking about purchasing 2 of these. One for pure pc dual-dvi and the other model IPSMS I think with hdmi for PS3. Is the input lag noticeable for PS3 gaming? And are the graphics ok?
Just wondering on those 2 points before pulling the plug?
Thanks guys thumb.gif

Apparently you can connect your PS3 for 720p resolution using regular models, like LITE, with Dual-link DVI <-- HDMI
http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/1640#post_17703872
   
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MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
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post #907 of 3508
Just as a couple updates I want to say the scaling from 1080p to 1440 looks better than I expected on the multi-input version so the screen does work fairly well with my PS3.

Also I am not a big proponent of the tapping your screen theory or similar ideas to reduce backlight bleeding but I have to say I was wiping my screen and slight rubbing motion from side to side really helped reduce some of the bleeding. That wasn't really my intention but I must have worked the panel in to place a little better or something because it does seem I have less backlight bleeding now. It's still there in places but it doesn't seem as bad.

Finally I have no problem running the screen at 65hz but it won't go higher than that. (But it is really running at 65 and not just saying that... at least according to Afterburner frame rate counter)





My SLI 460's are also preforming better than I thought they would. I just need to off/down the AA in more graphically demanding games (I also started using high textures instead of ultra in BF3). 1 GB of vram certainly isn't ideal but it's quite doable.
Edited by Accuracy158 - 7/15/12 at 7:21pm
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post #908 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by Accuracy158 View Post

Just as a couple updates I want to say the scaling from 1080p to 1440 looks better than I expected on the multi-input version so the screen does work fairly well with my PS3.
Also I am not a big proponent of the tapping your screen theory or similar ideas to reduce backlight bleeding but I have to say I was wiping my screen and slight rubbing motion from side to side really helped reduce some of the bleeding. That wasn't really my intention but I must have worked the panel in to place a little better or something because it does seem I have less backlight bleeding now. It's still there in places but it doesn't seem as bad.
Finally I have no problem running the screen at 65hz but it won't go higher than that. (But it is really running at 65 and not just saying that... at least according to Afterburner frame rate counter)
My SLI 460's are also preforming better than I thought they would. I just need to off/down the AA in more graphically demanding games (I also started using high textures instead of ultra in BF3). 1 GB of vram certainly isn't ideal but it's quite doable.

Can you elaborate on PS3 gaming, picture quality and input lag? I see you have the more expensive IPSMS model.

Cheers thumb.gif
TKC Iron Man
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TKC Iron Man
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post #909 of 3508
Quote:
Originally Posted by KidCastro View Post

Can you elaborate on PS3 gaming, picture quality and input lag? I see you have the more expensive IPSMS model.
Cheers thumb.gif

Honestly, I can't really elaborate much because I don't have much to compare to. My last screen was a 22 inch cheap 1080p vizio TV. Compared to that I don't notice any extra input lag but like I said I don't have a "fast" monitor to compare to. The scaling works fine. It fills the screen and doesn't really distort the image whether you are using 1080p or 720p. Naturally 27 inches seems a little big for 720p games but hey that's console gaming for you, I just sit back a little further rolleyes.gif I also don't have a 27" native 1080p screen to compare images but console games aren't usually native 1080p anyway so either way you would be upscaling the games resolution.

One of the best thing about having the multi-input version for consoles is that you can tweak the image on the monitor. As I said in an earlier post the color preset was set to "bluish" and to correct color settings you need to be using a PC or be using the multi-input version with the OSD... From what I hear you can only change the brightness on the single input versions (somebody else can probably clarify this). I'm using the same settings I do on PC... I cut the brightness down from 64 to 63, the contrast down from 88 to 75, and the color preset from "bluish" to "normal".
Edited by Accuracy158 - 7/15/12 at 8:50pm
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Acer Predator XB270HU ACHIEVA Shimian QH2700 IPSMS Ducky Shine 2 (White LED/Brown Switches) EVGA 1300w G2 + Individually sleeved cables 
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post #910 of 3508
PRAD.de's review of the 27" Achieva Shimian QH270 Multi is up, in German

http://www.prad.de/new/monitore/test/2012/test-shimian-qh270.html
Edited by MenacingTuba - 7/15/12 at 10:23pm
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