Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Sound Cards and Computer Audio › two input one output audio switch?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

two input one output audio switch?

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
I tried to make a simple switch for this with 3 ON OFF ON switches but I boiled the solder and it effectively became high-resistance joints. There's some suggestion for a Y-Splitter 3.5mm audio cable but I need to switch on and off either source. Any _cheap_ devices out there?
post #2 of 12
1.) Boiled the solder? Wait what? I'm a electronics engineer fresh out of college and have been soldering for many years. Never heard of "boiled solder joints". If you have high resistance use a solder wick or solder sucker to remove the old solder. Clean off the flux and oils with rubbing alcohol. Try again.

Unleaded solder often performs poorly, try leaded solder if you can aquire some.

High resistance in a solder joint means a.) you didn't heat it enough. b.) you didn't clean the surface enough before soldering. c.) your didn't apply enough solder. d.) your connection area is too small.

2.) Doesn't splitting the audio increase the resistance, since one line is driveing more sources aka larger load? 1/10 of an extra ohm from a bad solder joint, isn't anything compaired to all the extra 5 ohms your added by splitting the autio line. I could be wrong but.... I think you have some conceptual misunderstadnings here. I don't think your solder is to blame. idk, i could be wrong.

3.) I am confused on what you want to buy. Draw a schematic and i'll see if i can find you something.

4.) I am curious what a boilded solder joint looks like. I googled it, and it doesn't seem to exist. Maybe if i had a picture of what you did, i could provide some more constructive advise.

5.) How many ohms are you measuring from your high resistance solder joint? If it's more that 1/10 an ohm, your did something terribly wrong.

6.) Is only one audio source on at a time? Do you want a multiplexer or a splitter? I don't understand the need for switches on each input.

I don't think you need to go out and buy something new. I think we can re-work the supplies that you already bought to get it working.
Edited by crimsontears809739 - 3/14/12 at 9:53am
Deus Ex Machina
(19 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 580M Dell 0R1203 NVIDIA Quadro FX 2800M Samsung 4Gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  DVD-Rom HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GU40N Windows 7 Professional 
Audio
Dell Computer 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset Fami... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Athlon 64 X2 6400+  Asus M2N-E Nforce 500 SLi 8800GT  9800 GT 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveOS
OCZ ReaperX WD LG lightscribe Multilayer DVD burner Windows 7 
PowerCase
Antec 500W Smartpower 2.0 Aspire X-Navigator 
  hide details  
Reply
Deus Ex Machina
(19 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 580M Dell 0R1203 NVIDIA Quadro FX 2800M Samsung 4Gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  DVD-Rom HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GU40N Windows 7 Professional 
Audio
Dell Computer 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset Fami... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Athlon 64 X2 6400+  Asus M2N-E Nforce 500 SLi 8800GT  9800 GT 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveOS
OCZ ReaperX WD LG lightscribe Multilayer DVD burner Windows 7 
PowerCase
Antec 500W Smartpower 2.0 Aspire X-Navigator 
  hide details  
Reply
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crimsontears809739 View Post

1.) Boiled the solder? Wait what? I'm a electronics engineer fresh out of college and have been soldering for many years. Never heard of "boiled solder joints". If you have high resistance use a solder wick or solder sucker to remove the old solder. Clean off the flux and oils with rubbing alcohol. Try again.
Unleaded solder often performs poorly, try leaded solder if you can acquire some.
High resistance in a solder joint means a.) you didn't heat it enough. b.) you didn't clean the surface enough before soldering. c.) your didn't apply enough solder. d.) your connection area is too small.
2.) Doesn't splitting the audio increase the resistance, since one line is driving more sources aka larger load? 1/10 of an extra ohm from a bad solder joint, isn't anything compared to all the extra 5 ohms your added by splitting the audio line. I could be wrong but.... I think you have some conceptual misunderstandings here. I don't think your solder is to blame. idk, i could be wrong.
3.) I am confused on what you want to buy. Draw a schematic and I'll see if i can find you something.
4.) I am curious what a boiled solder joint looks like. I Googled it, and it doesn't seem to exist. Maybe if i had a picture of what you did, i could provide some more constructive advise.
5.) How many ohms are you measuring from your high resistance solder joint? If it's more that 1/10 an ohm, your did something terribly wrong.

1) I heated the solder way too much- enough to the cable coating to goop and some of the cable dark and the solder bubble (boil). 60W is probably too much but too lazy to search for a 30W iron locally.
2) I'm not actually splitting it, just switching between an 'A and B' source. basically: xbox 360 and a computer to one set of speakers;
PjrX7.png

3) as I stated, I did try to make a basic switch but completely fubar'd it. the result was a barely audible output. by barely audible, I mean: I stuck my ear right on to the speakers and barely heard the music.

9IqaL.jpg
V6huq.jpg
(I was told grounding wasn't necessarily required for outside-the-computer usage)

4 & 5) My own perspective of what I did.
post #4 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crimsontears809739 View Post

6.) Is only one audio source on at a time? Do you want a multiplexer or a splitter? I don't understand the need for switches on each input.
I don't think you need to go out and buy something new. I think we can re-work the supplies that you already bought to get it working.

6) I originally wanted the option to mix audio sources into the same output source but since I had the switches on hand and uselessly old audio card with enough connectors, I did this... thing.
post #5 of 12
I can help you fix this! thumb.gif

I think i know now what you wanted to do, and what you did wrong. I am at work on lunch break, and lunch is over. When i get home later today, or tomorrow I'll draw you a correct schematic.

Thanks for giving me all the info i asked for. :-)
Deus Ex Machina
(19 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 580M Dell 0R1203 NVIDIA Quadro FX 2800M Samsung 4Gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  DVD-Rom HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GU40N Windows 7 Professional 
Audio
Dell Computer 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset Fami... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Athlon 64 X2 6400+  Asus M2N-E Nforce 500 SLi 8800GT  9800 GT 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveOS
OCZ ReaperX WD LG lightscribe Multilayer DVD burner Windows 7 
PowerCase
Antec 500W Smartpower 2.0 Aspire X-Navigator 
  hide details  
Reply
Deus Ex Machina
(19 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 580M Dell 0R1203 NVIDIA Quadro FX 2800M Samsung 4Gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  DVD-Rom HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GU40N Windows 7 Professional 
Audio
Dell Computer 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset Fami... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Athlon 64 X2 6400+  Asus M2N-E Nforce 500 SLi 8800GT  9800 GT 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveOS
OCZ ReaperX WD LG lightscribe Multilayer DVD burner Windows 7 
PowerCase
Antec 500W Smartpower 2.0 Aspire X-Navigator 
  hide details  
Reply
post #6 of 12
Here is what you did.

472

Here is what you need to do for the Xbox AND/OR the PC.

If your combining the signals....there is a chance they could combine to make one "big" signal that could DAMAGE your amp if the volume is MORE THAN HALF WAY UP on either the Xbox or the PC . There is other bad things that could happen too. I would advise only turning on one signal at a time. If you want to try both, keep the volume turned down very low on both the PC and the Xbox...then use the amp to increase the volume. Don't say i didn't warn you.

325

1.) You have x3 signals,...left channel, right channel, and ground.

You want to switch left and right channel on/off at the same time for BOTH the Xbox and the PC....unless you want mono sound.

You want to leave the ground for your Xbox, your PC, and Amp ALWAYS connected at all times. Please don't put a switch on ground. That can cause all sorts of bad things to happen.

2.) You actually made more work for yourself. You bought SPDP switches, which is a terrible idea if you want stereo sound. Buy DPDT switches. Any local radio shack will have them for like $1.00. This will allow you to switch both the left and right channel at the same time.

3.) If you can't afford or are too lazy to get a lower wattage soldering iron,......get the smallest and longest tip for it that you can. (some cheap soldering irons won't allow you to change the tip, but most will). A high wattage soldering iron with a long, tiny tip will run relatively cool.

Also..fyi...On the schematic, the "X" means "Don't connect"

Also..fyi...If your confused about which pin is left, right, and ground....read this --> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRS_connector It's wikipedia, so it's an easy read.

Unless your using all gold plated audio jacks and gold plated audio connectors, you are adding some extra resistance which will make it "slightly" quieter. Extra resistance from solder joints themselves isn't going to be problem. If it the sound is barely audible (and everything is grounded correctly), it's not a electrical problem but a mechanical problem. Chances are you damaged the plastic in the jacks with the heat from your soldering iron.
Edited by crimsontears809739 - 3/16/12 at 10:54am
Deus Ex Machina
(19 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 580M Dell 0R1203 NVIDIA Quadro FX 2800M Samsung 4Gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  DVD-Rom HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GU40N Windows 7 Professional 
Audio
Dell Computer 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset Fami... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Athlon 64 X2 6400+  Asus M2N-E Nforce 500 SLi 8800GT  9800 GT 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveOS
OCZ ReaperX WD LG lightscribe Multilayer DVD burner Windows 7 
PowerCase
Antec 500W Smartpower 2.0 Aspire X-Navigator 
  hide details  
Reply
Deus Ex Machina
(19 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 580M Dell 0R1203 NVIDIA Quadro FX 2800M Samsung 4Gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  DVD-Rom HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GU40N Windows 7 Professional 
Audio
Dell Computer 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset Fami... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Athlon 64 X2 6400+  Asus M2N-E Nforce 500 SLi 8800GT  9800 GT 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveOS
OCZ ReaperX WD LG lightscribe Multilayer DVD burner Windows 7 
PowerCase
Antec 500W Smartpower 2.0 Aspire X-Navigator 
  hide details  
Reply
post #7 of 12
If you want the PC or the Xbox

(since having them both of them enabled is dangerous, and could harm your amp )

Do this...

313

It just need one DPDT switch.

Honestly, this is the best way to go.

Solder all the grounds together. thumb.gif

Also, here is a article to read up on switches if you don't know what DPTP is --> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DPDT Wikipedia, also a easy read.
Edited by crimsontears809739 - 3/16/12 at 10:49am
Deus Ex Machina
(19 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 580M Dell 0R1203 NVIDIA Quadro FX 2800M Samsung 4Gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  DVD-Rom HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GU40N Windows 7 Professional 
Audio
Dell Computer 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset Fami... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Athlon 64 X2 6400+  Asus M2N-E Nforce 500 SLi 8800GT  9800 GT 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveOS
OCZ ReaperX WD LG lightscribe Multilayer DVD burner Windows 7 
PowerCase
Antec 500W Smartpower 2.0 Aspire X-Navigator 
  hide details  
Reply
Deus Ex Machina
(19 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 580M Dell 0R1203 NVIDIA Quadro FX 2800M Samsung 4Gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  TOSHIBA MK3256GSYF  DVD-Rom HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GU40N Windows 7 Professional 
Audio
Dell Computer 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset Fami... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Athlon 64 X2 6400+  Asus M2N-E Nforce 500 SLi 8800GT  9800 GT 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveOS
OCZ ReaperX WD LG lightscribe Multilayer DVD burner Windows 7 
PowerCase
Antec 500W Smartpower 2.0 Aspire X-Navigator 
  hide details  
Reply
post #8 of 12
Thread Starter 
http://www.buy.com/prod/genius-sw-v2-1-1250-multimedia-speaker-system-2-1-channel-36w-rms/208050835.html here's what the speakers are. I will now decipher what you've made there.
post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 
Ok, I think there's been some fuddling here.

Here's a photo from Digikey of an audio connector (pcb mounted):

600

And here's an ON OFF ON toggle switch:

243

The audio connector has 5 pins there. 3 for the audio cable (signal ground, and 2 for left and right audio) and 2 for chassis grounding.

In my... device... I have three switches (effectively 6 separate 'ON' states).

Each input audio connector's pin goes to one side of one switch. one audio connector = half the 'ON' states taken. 3 'ON' states left which go to the other input audio connector.

Middle pin of the switch is 'OUT' since the other two are 'IN'. Each of these 'OUT' pins go to the output audio connector.

So, to get one whole input, I would have to throw all the switches to one side else I get a half, mixed signal or throw all the switches to the center, turning off all audio.

I hope this helps somewhat in clarification. If you already knew this then disregard it.
post #10 of 12
Thread Starter 
A friend on IRC helped. The answer was terribly simple: use pins that are useful. 1, 2, and 4 do something while 3 and 5 don't do anything. :|

http://www.switchcraft.com/Drawings/35rapc__vn4_cd.pdf for pin-numbering reference.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Sound Cards and Computer Audio
Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Sound Cards and Computer Audio › two input one output audio switch?