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would this design work? - Page 2

post #11 of 21
It's a nice design but I think manufacturing of the block will be fair easer with both inlet and outlet being perpendicular to the block/580 leaving you with a 'simple' flat surface to seal smile.gif

I have to admit I would have thought with both a EK backplate (which also acts as a heat sink for the VRM btw) and a full WB on a 580 with 'active' VRM cooling the temps would be great, rendering an additional WB simply for the vrms overkill... with minimal temperature differences. However I guess that doesn't fit with you OCN motto lol "If its not overkill its not worth doing " good luck i'll be keen to see how you build the block and how it works out temp wise smile.gif
    
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post #12 of 21
Thread Starter 
okay so i did a bit more work on my design, the reason i am doing this is because i have had trottling occure and ambients are just going to get warmer this time of year, i am doing this to maintain a stable oc.

anyhoo time for a modified pic i did some more work on it let me know if there is anything else that could be improved on the block.



403
post #13 of 21
Ok, hmm, let me ask you something - is there any scientific justification for the shape/count/position of the ribs on that thing, or you just went artistic? smile.gif
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post #14 of 21
Looks like the fins are directly over the VRMs, which would be where you want them. The more there are and the thinner they are, the better they'll do for transferring heat from the block to the water, and the design looks reasonable at that without being high restriction.
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post #15 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnin426850 View Post

Ok, hmm, let me ask you something - is there any scientific justification for the shape/count/position of the ribs on that thing, or you just went artistic? smile.gif

the ribs are placed to effectivly displace the heat from the VRM's off of the PCB the second set was added when I found a new hot spot today while looking around with a thermal camera.
post #16 of 21
I'm a bit confused

Wouldn't the vrm need cooling on the other side, instead of the back?
Likes regular full cover water block would cover it?
Or do the vrms get so hot that they would also benefit from being cooled from behind?
And what would it be made out of so that it wouldn't be conductive ?

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post #17 of 21
Yes the VRM's on any high power vga get rather hot far hotter than the core so you can cool them on both sides. Just as an example if you look at a HD 7970 EK backplate you will see that the backplate has been designed as a heatsink for the VRM's so yes cooling of the VRM's has been done from this side of VGA before. So with both sides with active watercooling the temps should be great! smile.gif

And like any VRM cooling heatsink I assume he would probably use thermal pads with maybe a bit of thermal paste, the block would most likely be made of copper but you will have to ask him that one smile.gif
Edited by 4514kaiser - 3/18/12 at 12:45am
    
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post #18 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4514kaiser View Post

Yes the VRM's on any high power vga get rather hot far hotter than the core so you can cool them on both sides. Just as an example if you look at a HD 7970 EK backplate you will see that the backplate has been designed as a heatsink for the VRM's so yes cooling of the VRM's has been done from this side of VGA before. So with both sides with active watercooling the temps should be great! smile.gif
And like any VRM cooling heatsink I assume he would probably use thermal pads with maybe a bit of thermal paste, the block would most likely be made of copper but you will have to ask him that one smile.gif

correct the block will be copper and i will mount it using adhesive thermal pads and the water cooling tubing (the reason i am doing this is because my 580 will throttle due to VRM over heat once i start getting into some gaming or folding and we all know dialing back the OC is not an option.)
post #19 of 21
What are you using to encase it? acrylic, delrin, brass? as it stands your design wont hold water. Your going to want to account for fasteners to attach this piece to your copper bit, and your going to probably want an o-ring seal to make sure it holds water at pressure. Purely from a manufacturing stand point, what size are those channels in terms of width and depth? thin and deep is possible with slitting saws, but thats another operation on the mill. small mills aren't going to be able to handle going deep.

I'd recommend extending the bits on the left further so that your reaching off the card and then use that as your fitting area. Just use pockets for the flow. Then put an O-ring channel around the exterior of everything. Finally, sink some small (6-32 or M3) screws between the exterior edge and the O-ring.
Edited by Cwalster - 3/18/12 at 10:59am
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post #20 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cwalster View Post

What are you using to encase it? acrylic, delrin, brass? as it stands your design wont hold water. Your going to want to account for fasteners to attach this piece to your copper bit, and your going to probably want an o-ring seal to make sure it holds water at pressure. Purely from a manufacturing stand point, what size are those channels in terms of width and depth? thin and deep is possible with slitting saws, but thats another operation on the mill. small mills aren't going to be able to handle going deep.
I'd recommend extending the bits on the left further so that your reaching off the card and then use that as your fitting area. Just use pockets for the flow. Then put an O-ring channel around the exterior of everything. Finally, sink some small (6-32 or M3) screws between the exterior edge and the O-ring.

like i have previously stated this is a rough design...
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