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Cutting 140 mm fan holes, and 120 mm fan holes...... - Page 2

post #11 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

Please dont tell me or these people i didnt do what i did.
I never said anything of the sort; merely that holesaws do dull more when run in reverse, granted with softer materials it's not as pronounced an issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

There is no difference in the backstroke of a hacksaw and the reverse running of a holesaw. The teeth are dragging in both scenarios.
The differences are that with a hole saw you have a greater downward force on the teeth and the backsides of the of the teeth are shaped differently (hole saws have more bite than hacksaws). Reciprocating saw blades (e.g. hacksaw, jigsaw, etc) are designed to for the blade to ride over the material on the backstroke, while most other saw blades (circular, band, hole saw, etc) are hooked and the tip is more susceptible to being worn down when run backwards.



Don't get me wrong, I'm not discrediting your statement that running a holesaw in reverse produces a cleaner cut (I haven't tried it). Rather I'm saying that doing so does indeed dull the teeth faster than when it's running in the intended direction; also comparing it to using a hacksaw backwards is not exactly correct due to very different tooth designs (it's like comparing apples and oranges).

BTW, I'm a mechanical engineer wink.gif
Edited by radodrill - 4/5/12 at 9:45am
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post #12 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by radodrill View Post

I never said anything of the sort; merely that holesaws do dull more when run in reverse, granted with softer materials it's not as pronounced an issue.
[quote name="pc-illiterate" url="/t/1231956/cutting-140-mm-fan-holes-and-120-mm-fan-holes/0_100#post_16895678"There is no difference in the backstroke of a hacksaw and the reverse running of a holesaw. The teeth are dragging in both scenarios.
The differences are that with a hole saw you have a greater downward force on the teeth and the backsides of the of the teeth are shaped differently (hole saws have more bite than hacksaws). Reciprocating saw blades (e.g. hacksaw, jigsaw, etc) are designed to for the blade to ride over the material on the backstroke, while most other saw blades (circular, band, hole saw, etc) are hooked and the tip is more susceptible to being worn down when run backwards.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not discrediting your statement that running a holesaw in reverse produces a cleaner cut (I haven't tried it). Rather I'm saying that doing so does indeed dull the teeth faster than when it's running in the intended direction; also comparing it to using a hacksaw backwards is not exactly correct due to very different tooth designs (it's like comparing apples and oranges).
BTW, I'm a mechanical engineer wink.gif[/quote]

Waste of time and money using 5 1/4 and 5 1/2 holesaws, use a dremel or better yet a jigsaw with a 32 teeth per inch blade. The idea is to get 2-3 teeth on the material being cut so that the metal being cut gets carried away without clogging and prevents the blade or saw from jamming. Also it is a lot easier and cheaper to buy jigsaw ( 20-30 bucks ) BTW I`m a master plumber and hydronics tech with 35 years practical experience and have probably drilled 10-20 thousand holes using a holesaw, they have their place but large diam holes in sheet metal should be cut with a drill press and the material secured firmly. LOL. mario.gifbike.gif
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post #13 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdesmo View Post

Waste of time and money using 5 1/4 and 5 1/2 holesaws, use a dremel or better yet a jigsaw with a 32 teeth per inch blade. The idea is to get 2-3 teeth on the material being cut so that the metal being cut gets carried away without clogging and prevents the blade or saw from jamming. Also it is a lot easier and cheaper to buy jigsaw ( 20-30 bucks ) BTW I`m a master plumber and hydronics tech with 35 years practical experience and have probably drilled 10-20 thousand holes using a holesaw, they have their place but large diam holes in sheet metal should be cut with a drill press and the material secured firmly. LOL. mario.gifbike.gif

I don't even have any 5-1/4 hole saws tongue.gif the largest I have is IIRC 3-1/2; anything larger than that I've used a Dremel with a circle cutter attachment, but a good mark and a steady hand with a jigsaw also works well. TBH, anything larger than 4" or so would probably be best cut with a mill, but that's really only an option if you have a machine shop at your disposal.
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post #14 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by radodrill View Post

I don't even have any 5-1/4 hole saws tongue.gif the largest I have is IIRC 3-1/2; anything larger than that I've used a Dremel with a circle cutter attachment, but a good mark and a steady hand with a jigsaw also works well. TBH, anything larger than 4" or so would probably be best cut with a mill, but that's really only an option if you have a machine shop at your disposal.

I sort of agree but too much hassle taking it to shop, setup is pain unless you drill out rivets and separate panels. Also could laser or plasma cut but pieces should be pulled apart. I`ll be cutting 5-120 and 2-140 holes in my cosmos 1000 case on saturday, building TEC water cooling rig. Measure twice, cut once ! mario.gif
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post #15 of 15
all points taken and understand guys. all good points. i'll point out, i didnt have to buy the saws. thanks to my employer wink.gif
the op will do what he's comfortable with anyway.
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