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[Official] NVIDIA GTX 680 Owner's Club - Page 483

post #4821 of 6048
what paste do you guys use on your cards if you have replaced it? noticed a difference?
 
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post #4822 of 6048
Hi ALL! been shopping for a better card and i finally got a 680 lightning today, this card is wikkid killer! Last card was an amd 7850 a good card but i hated the catalyst software, things are oh so smoothly running now!
post #4823 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jothay View Post

I swear... I just can't win...
1. Had the Rampage IV Extreme mobo swapped last Friday (the last day of the 15 day return policy of Fry's) because I was getting nothing but error code 00 on the board (which the manual says "Not Used"...)
2. Decided to wait until the additional Koolance parts arrived (which would be the following Friday, yesterday). This was especially important because of the Quick Release connectors and 4 additional bottles of coolant, which I would need to flush the system and get all the distilled water I had to add out.
3. Put the new mobo in, 1 stick of RAM and the 3930K in..... still getting a 00. Different RAM, Different Video Card, no change, must be the CPU.
4. I went back to Fry's to ask them if they could even exchange the 3930K with another one, they said I was outside return policy but they would make an exception for me.... BUT they were out of stock on 3930K's and the soonest they could get more would be Monday (at the latest Wednesday). The guy put a note in the manager's log that I was already approved for an EE as soon as stock comes in.
5. I decided to put my Rampage III Extreme and i7-980X proc back into the system, couple restarts later and I was back to being able to at least see the BIOS (Reset CMOS too)
6. Fiddle Fiddle Fiddle, all four cards back in, everything operating on Water Blocks, looks awesome. I built a stand for the 9x120mm radiator using Lego's and Zip Ties tongue.gif
7. The previous load of Windows wouldn't boot in and the CD refused to repair it... crappit
8. Installed windows to a 7.2k 1TB WD drive (instead of my Crucial M4 128GB SSD). It boots, I can save my files off the M4, not a huge deal.
9. Updated BIOS, Chipset, blah blah blah and nVidia Drivers installed
10. Can't enable Quad SLi
***!?!?!?!!?"?!WOFUHO&QAY DBOAFG OA*&SGFASF

*hugs* I know that feel bro.

I had an issue with my motherboard (p8z77-v premium (limited edition aww yeah)) where it hated my case. it kept grounding itself out and zapping itself from the 8 pin cpu and the screw by the first pci-e slot. 4 days later 3 tubes of thermal paste and another set os screws and an infuriated me, all the while being on the phon constantly with customer support trying to figure this crap out. and it was 2 freaking mobo screws. the one by my 8 pin and my first pci-e lane screw..... i have never been so angry and infuriated in my entire life.
post #4824 of 6048
Does someone have this card?

Gainward GTX 680 Phantom 2GB

http://www.fudzilla.com/home/item/26768-gainward-gtx-680-phantom-2gb-tested/26768-gainward-gtx-680-phantom-2gb-tested

Does Gainward cards have good overclocking capability? I'm quite disappointed for my Palit Jetsream gtx670 overclocking capability and performance and thought that i could sold it and order this Gainward card. Is there any point for doing that?

GTX670 runs games great but then there is those drops under 40fps or even near 30fps in the middle of big chaos and i just don't like it. I can feel the stuttering. Dropping graphics down feels kinda stupid because games run usually way over 60fps, but when you really need the power card kinda let you down and i think my GTX570 could do the same job with lower graphics.

If this Gainward GTX 680 has good overclocking capability and if I overclock it could i get rid of those drops? Or is there so much different in performance between gtx 670 and gtx 680.
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post #4825 of 6048
Got a GTX 680 Lightning recently...hell ya card
http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/fzb9r/

quite pretty, blue lightnings match with my P8P67 motherboard color (i know its kinda not for high end)
post #4826 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post

what paste do you guys use on your cards if you have replaced it? noticed a difference?

Arctic Silver is your friend. There's two different ways to apply it, one is easy but doesn't guarantee a good spread, the other guarantees but is harder to do:

Either method stars with: Clean the surface using rubbing alcohol (70% alcohol, you can find it in the medical section of any neighborhood grocer like HEB or Walmart) and cotton balls. If you need to clean the area around the CPU (or GPU) Q-Tips work well. Make sure that the surface is nice and clean and dry. The alcohol will dry out in air in less than a minute, you can gently blow on it to speed this up. Once its clean, its time to apply paste

1. The easy way: in the very center of the chip, squeeze out a dot about the size of a grain of rice (about an 1/8 of an inch, or 4 mm) long. Carefully re-attach the heat block (whatever it is you are using).
2. The more difficult way: Squeeze out a very thin line of thermal paste along the left edge, about 1mm away from the side of the chip. Very carefully and very slowly use the edge of a credit card (or similar hard plastic card, I used my Walgreens Rewards card tongue.gif) slide the card across the chip to spread it out. Keep spreading in the same direction until you have given yourself an even, very thin layer of paste. If you didn't squeeze out enough to cover all the way to the right side of the chip, squeeze an additional dot of paste (<1mm in diameter) to the upper right corner of the chip and start swiping the card from the top to bottom, this should cover the gap. Any excess paste should have come off the chip onto the card and can be cleaned off with alcohol and a cotton ball or two.

Things you need to watch for: If you apply your heat block all the way on (screwed in and everything) and then take it right back off, there shouldn't be any paste squeezed off the edge of the chip by the heat block. This is often the mistake of manufacturer paste applications, it can be pretty bad. Remember the best heat path is always direct block to chip, the paste is only there to fill in the microscopic crevices on both surfaces (which makes the overall process work better) but too MUCH paste actually gets in the way.
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post #4827 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jothay View Post

Arctic Silver is your friend. There's two different ways to apply it, one is easy but doesn't guarantee a good spread, the other guarantees but is harder to do:
Either method stars with: Clean the surface using rubbing alcohol (70% alcohol, you can find it in the medical section of any neighborhood grocer like HEB or Walmart) and cotton balls. If you need to clean the area around the CPU (or GPU) Q-Tips work well. Make sure that the surface is nice and clean and dry. The alcohol will dry out in air in less than a minute, you can gently blow on it to speed this up. Once its clean, its time to apply paste
1. The easy way: in the very center of the chip, squeeze out a dot about the size of a grain of rice (about an 1/8 of an inch, or 4 mm) long. Carefully re-attach the heat block (whatever it is you are using).
2. The more difficult way: Squeeze out a very thin line of thermal paste along the left edge, about 1mm away from the side of the chip. Very carefully and very slowly use the edge of a credit card (or similar hard plastic card, I used my Walgreens Rewards card tongue.gif) slide the card across the chip to spread it out. Keep spreading in the same direction until you have given yourself an even, very thin layer of paste. If you didn't squeeze out enough to cover all the way to the right side of the chip, squeeze an additional dot of paste (<1mm in diameter) to the upper right corner of the chip and start swiping the card from the top to bottom, this should cover the gap. Any excess paste should have come off the chip onto the card and can be cleaned off with alcohol and a cotton ball or two.
Things you need to watch for: If you apply your heat block all the way on (screwed in and everything) and then take it right back off, there shouldn't be any paste squeezed off the edge of the chip by the heat block. This is often the mistake of manufacturer paste applications, it can be pretty bad. Remember the best heat path is always direct block to chip, the paste is only there to fill in the microscopic crevices on both surfaces (which makes the overall process work better) but too MUCH paste actually gets in the way.

Didn't read your whole thread, but a single pea size was proven to work the best and is the easiest. There's a youtube link around here where a guy shows exactly what it looks like being spread with equal pressure applied through out. The "Star" method was one of the worse performing becuase certain areas didn't have as much and others had too much. It made for an uneven spread.

He did them all, like 10 different styles and ultimately the old fashioned dot size right in middle performed the best.
     
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post #4828 of 6048
My GTX 680 DirectCU II has been punished beyond belief without voltage being touched.
Bios has been flashed so many times to see what the best I can get is.
Currently on the MSI Lightning LN2 Bios running at 1260MHZ. That's pretty much as far as I can push my card without it breaking. Anyone keen to voltage mod my card? As in remove that resistor and bridge the other two points? I would, but I'm not game enough!
post #4829 of 6048
Afaik u need to do more than just mod voltage, but also power limit. You won't find anyone willing to do it as the soldering required is scary and no-one would take liability for destroying your card. Best wait till the real Kepler comes out.
post #4830 of 6048
GTX 680 Lightning. Haven't flashed and overclocked it yet though.


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