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CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED Monitor Club - Page 177

post #1761 of 5786
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diggz View Post

Just ordered the Crossover 2720MDP from bigclothcraft. Hopefully it gets here ok and is in good condition!
Question though...is the 2720MDP 8 or 10bit? And is it 16.7mil or 1.07bil color support? This spec seems to fluctuate in different places I look.

True 8-bit means 16.7 millions colors; true 10-bit means 1.07 billion. I'll calibrate my monitor sometime next week, so I'll let you know then whether the specs are accurate.
post #1762 of 5786
I highly doubt the human eye can perceive 16.7 million different colors. Let alone 1.07 billion. So, it more than likely won't matter much. Always seemed like more of a marketing tactic.
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post #1763 of 5786
I think my eye can tell about 25-35 colors tops. You know... Red, Dark Red, Light Red, Purple, Green, etc. biggrin.gif
post #1764 of 5786
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sazexa View Post

I highly doubt the human eye can perceive 16.7 million different colors. Let alone 1.07 billion. So, it more than likely won't matter much. Always seemed like more of a marketing tactic.

It helps with banding.

You ever see gradient banding? You probably have...

For me, I started noticing it 4-5 years ago and can't stop noticing it ever since.

10-bit helps / removes that issue almost entirely.

Alas, it's already on it's way and I don't don't feel the 70$ return fee, the extra 60$ or so dollars the MDP seems to have, along with input lag and all that...

End up costing me 110$ + a lot of extra work. Can't see it being worth it.


It's how well colors blend together:



If I had known before hand, I may have gotten the 10bit, as I watch alot of movies on my computer.

But, I also play a lot of games on my computer...and extra input lag, even 1-2 frames more...would be annoying. My current monitor is a TN and I am annoyed by the input lag still, and the Yamasaki only has a little less. I can't imagine doubling it with the extra inputs.

This is banding, and alot of TV's, and most monitors, which are 6-bit, have this in spades unless you use the highest quality source possibly. Very noticable to me, to others, they never see it.

Edited by Mkilbride - 7/23/12 at 6:34am
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post #1765 of 5786
I was gaming all weekend with my new monitor till I got so sleepy at nights lol, this monitor is amazing. The frame rate in Battlefield 3 doesn't look......how can I put this? Smooth. All my other games are fantastic running at 2560x1440, what's up with that?
post #1766 of 5786
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lholozon86 View Post

I was gaming all weekend with my new monitor till I got so sleepy at nights lol, this monitor is amazing. The frame rate in Battlefield 3 doesn't look......how can I put this? Smooth. All my other games are fantastic running at 2560x1440, what's up with that?

What cards do you have?

Cause honestly...

@ 1920 x 1200p,. my 2GB GTX670 was maxed out. I'm going to have to get another GTX670 just to break 60FPS in most games at that resolution now...

I worry about my VRAM.
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post #1767 of 5786
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lholozon86 View Post

I was gaming all weekend with my new monitor till I got so sleepy at nights lol, this monitor is amazing. The frame rate in Battlefield 3 doesn't look......how can I put this? Smooth. All my other games are fantastic running at 2560x1440, what's up with that?

bf3 settings editor

fxaa


Using the above combined. My OC'd setup sees 60+fps on ultra/custom type configuration @1440p
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post #1768 of 5786
I just got my monitor and it wont turn on... red light only. The stand is twisted so the monitor faces a few degrees off from the stand straight on, and it was packed really well, but apart from that the thing just wonr turn on. Can anyone help? Should I get a power transformer? Where could I get one of those...
post #1769 of 5786
Quote:
Originally Posted by anticommon View Post

I just got my monitor and it wont turn on... red light only. The stand is twisted so the monitor faces a few degrees off from the stand straight on, and it was packed really well, but apart from that the thing just wonr turn on. Can anyone help? Should I get a power transformer? Where could I get one of those...

Are you sending a signal to the monitor from your graphics card? I.e. is the monitor plugged in to a Dual-link DVI port on your video card with a proper cable, and the computer is turned on, and you're still getting no signal? It will not turn on without a signal.
   
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post #1770 of 5786
Hey guys. I just got my 27Q LED-P today (from BCC). What was initially an extremely exciting time has turned into frustration. It turns on, my computer detects it, the blue light comes on, the screen brightens a bit, and that's it - no display frown.gif . I've fiddled with tons of different settings with the resolution and turning on/off scaling. Have plugged/unplugged it, have tried a different power plug, have tried using only it connected to the computer and doing a fresh start, having a second monitor connected at the same time, and restarting.

I've tried a Windows 7 machine with an Nvidia GTX 260.
I've tried a Mac OS Lion with an 8800GT.
I've tried a Max OS Lion machine with ATI Radeon HD3870.
I've tried an XP machine with an Nvidia Quadro FX 4600.

None have worked. All have exhibited the same blue light, no-display problem.
One thing I have not tried is using a different dual-link DVI cable because I don't have a spare, but it seems to work fine with my other monitors.
Anyone have any suggestions? This really sucks, and BCC even said he would make sure it wasn't DOA before he shipped...
Edited by VoidXC - 7/23/12 at 3:35pm
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