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CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED Monitor Club - Page 301

post #3001 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by nisc24 View Post

Please update as soon as you get the converter and let me know what kind of results you get. I have no problem installing a heatsink, but my soldering skills are pretty subpar, so the converter + heatsink looks like the most realistic option at this point for me.
I contacted accessorieswhole (who i purchased from) and am waiting to hear back. Any chance of being able to find a replacement (green?) pcb online somehow?

Ok to update on my status, I had about 2-3 hours of time to use the monitor connected to the power converter last night. So far I cannot report any flickering, so it appears the converter may be working. However, this amount of testing time isn't significant to draw any real conclusions. I also want to comment and say the power brick still gets very hot, probably only a few degrees away from being too hot to hold. This occurs with or without the power converter.

I heard back from AW today indicating he does not sell replacement parts for these monitors (I purchased from red-cap). Here is his reply:
Quote:
Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.

We are sorry to announce that we do not provide any spare parts for monitors for sales purpose.

Sincerely

- accessorieswhole

I have also contacted green-sum and redcap but they appear to still be on holiday.

Finally, if anyone has any other sellers they know of that might want to help us, here is the message I've sent out for you to steal. Hopefully we can get a cooperative seller. Feel free to use this:
Quote:
I am wondering if you would be willing to sell me a replacement LED controller PCB for a crossover 27Q. I am interested in PCB model number FIF22LD-04A.

Of the two PCBs for the Crossover27Q, it is the one that is green in color, NOT teal.

This is the one I am interested in:
http://imgur.com/CPMaB
http://imgur.com/ly4p7

NOT this one:
http://imgur.com/3VotI

There are many other people interested in this part, as many are having their monitors fail after a few months with no way to repair them effectively.

Thank you for your time.
post #3002 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by tehpsyc View Post

Ok to update on my status, I had about 2-3 hours of time to use the monitor connected to the power converter last night. So far I cannot report any flickering, so it appears the converter may be working. However, this amount of testing time isn't significant to draw any real conclusions. I also want to comment and say the power brick still gets very hot, probably only a few degrees away from being too hot to hold. This occurs with or without the power converter.

Are you blasting the monitor at full brightness all the time? I know that it may seem like a good idea to max the brightness so that you know it works in extreme conditions. However i fear that the teal pcb just is so crappy that it will burn itself anyway and nullify the precautions you've taken (heatsink and voltage converter) to prolong its life. I remember you told that the flickering started again few hours after you had installed the new pcb. This leads me to believe the culprit might me the power brick too, or something else. This case sure has to be a major headache for you.
Quote:
I heard back from AW today indicating he does not sell replacement parts for these monitors (I purchased from red-cap).

This sure is a let down. I bought my monitor from AW. Hopefully these green boards are of better quality. As a side note i have now seen 3 different designs of the green pcb. I assume they're all good since we haven't heard them burning up.

I checked the brick temperature with my IR digital thermometer and it was 43C (110F) with almost minimum brightness and maxing out the brightness didn't seem to do a big difference. The brick is on the warm side but i wouldn't describe it as being hot.
post #3003 of 6483
Does anybody know if Crossover (or any other make) produces a model with HDMI, Display Port and Digital TV ? (other than the Achieva QH270-IPS-TDP that seems to have being discontinued)
post #3004 of 6483
Quote:
where can i buy "apple cinema" stands on that site? or does anyone know where i can purchase a stand that is similar to apple monitor stands?


I would also like to know this.
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post #3005 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Althulas View Post

You need a MDP2720 with the HDMI inputs that will scale the res, the Xbox has no problem running on this monitor at 1920x1080 max HDMI output. Pics in post 1256 http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/1250#post_17508778
The Crossover is such good value for money. However I have developed a flickering problem with mine which is being investigated with my seller which I'll give the full story at its conclusion.

Thanks a lot! I could sell my current monitor if I bought that one then.
 
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post #3006 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karail View Post

Are you blasting the monitor at full brightness all the time? I know that it may seem like a good idea to max the brightness so that you know it works in extreme conditions. However i fear that the teal pcb just is so crappy that it will burn itself anyway and nullify the precautions you've taken (heatsink and voltage converter) to prolong its life. I remember you told that the flickering started again few hours after you had installed the new pcb. This leads me to believe the culprit might me the power brick too, or something else. This case sure has to be a major headache for you.
This sure is a let down. I bought my monitor from AW. Hopefully these green boards are of better quality. As a side note i have now seen 3 different designs of the green pcb. I assume they're all good since we haven't heard them burning up.
I checked the brick temperature with my IR digital thermometer and it was 43C (110F) with almost minimum brightness and maxing out the brightness didn't seem to do a big difference. The brick is on the warm side but i wouldn't describe it as being hot.

Unfortunately I don't have a infrared thermometer but I'd bet my brick is getting past 43C. I suspect as well that the power brick is probably the variable that determines whether people with the blue pcb will ultimately experience failure, and how long it'll take. The weltronics brick, and others, act as the buffer between the different voltages and have to be able to accept a wide range since they are compatible with both countries. My suspicion was that they work better at the native Korean voltage, and that the monitor tolerates these better as well. These adapters probably aren't of the greatest quality, so some people I'm sure get better ones than others. So far burning away at max brightness my monitor has been ok using the 220V converter.

And yeah this has been a major headache, I'm hoping the 220V option proves to be effective, but ultimately I don't think I'm gonna be satisfied until I can get a green PCB. Also as far as AW is concerned, I didn't buy from him so he may be less willing to help me than he would you. I would understand if he wants to save his supply of replacement parts to better service his customers. But maybe green-sum or red-cap will come through.
post #3007 of 6483
Well I tried lowering the brightness a little so it wouldn't be stressing the PCB too much and within 5 minutes the monitor started flickering. Damn it. Anyone have any recommendations where I can get a reliable power brick?
post #3008 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by HPE1000 View Post

Some questions for you guys, how much better will 2560x1440 be on a 27" screen when compared to 1920x1080 on a 24" screen? And what will games running at 1080p look like on a 2560x1440 screen? Because some games do not go above 1080p.
Also, is there any way to get an xbox to run on it even if it has a hdmi connection? I know it will not run the xbox at 2560x1440, but I just dont know much about these quadhd screens much.

Please don't double post. People didn't reply to it originally because the exact same question was asked and answered just a few pages back.

2560x1440 is absolutely better on a 27" screen than 1920x1080 on a 24. It's not so much about the size, but the pixel density. This panel I believe is 0.2331mm, which is very low, and very good compared to a lot of stuff out there.

Not sure what you mean by 'games running at 1080p', what games can you name that are LIMITED to 1080P? Any game in the last 5 years scales up the resolution right up to what your monitor can do, so you shouldn't have any problems there. I will assume you're talking about PC games.

This monitor is NOT for the Xbox. I would highly advise against buying it if you want to plug in an Xbox. Multiple reasons as you are probably aware, the biggest of which is that Xbox only outputs 720p, so you're just blurring a tiny image in the first place.
Edited by Gloomfrost - 10/5/12 at 11:43am
post #3009 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by tehpsyc View Post

Ok to update on my status, I had about 2-3 hours of time to use the monitor connected to the power converter last night. So far I cannot report any flickering, so it appears the converter may be working. However, this amount of testing time isn't significant to draw any real conclusions. I also want to comment and say the power brick still gets very hot, probably only a few degrees away from being too hot to hold. This occurs with or without the power converter.
I heard back from AW today indicating he does not sell replacement parts for these monitors (I purchased from red-cap). Here is his reply:
I have also contacted green-sum and redcap but they appear to still be on holiday.
Finally, if anyone has any other sellers they know of that might want to help us, here is the message I've sent out for you to steal. Hopefully we can get a cooperative seller. Feel free to use this:

Thought I'd check out this thread after owning my crossover for almost 3 months. What is all this business about failing? eh-smiley.gif
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post #3010 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by tehpsyc View Post

Well I tried lowering the brightness a little so it wouldn't be stressing the PCB too much and within 5 minutes the monitor started flickering. Damn it. Anyone have any recommendations where I can get a reliable power brick?

Here is a power brick that was also posted on that thread I linked to several pages ago:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300555688796?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#rpdId

I am sorry to hear that the converter didn't work. Definitely try messaging red-cap after he/she/they get back. Hang in there, buddy! thumb.gif
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