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CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED Monitor Club - Page 302

post #3011 of 6485
Quote:
Originally Posted by tehpsyc View Post

Unfortunately I don't have a infrared thermometer but I'd bet my brick is getting past 43C. I suspect as well that the power brick is probably the variable that determines whether people with the blue pcb will ultimately experience failure, and how long it'll take. The weltronics brick, and others, act as the buffer between the different voltages and have to be able to accept a wide range since they are compatible with both countries. My suspicion was that they work better at the native Korean voltage, and that the monitor tolerates these better as well. These adapters probably aren't of the greatest quality, so some people I'm sure get better ones than others. So far burning away at max brightness my monitor has been ok using the 220V converter.
And yeah this has been a major headache, I'm hoping the 220V option proves to be effective, but ultimately I don't think I'm gonna be satisfied until I can get a green PCB. Also as far as AW is concerned, I didn't buy from him so he may be less willing to help me than he would you. I would understand if he wants to save his supply of replacement parts to better service his customers. But maybe green-sum or red-cap will come through.

I think I'm going to at minimum try a new power brick, probably the one in the post above^

I'm sorry that you didn't receive very good news, I had some positive feedback from AW

"We've made request to Manufactuerer and we may have it early next week.
As soon as we have Green PCB, we will send it via Fedex. "

so hopefully with the green pcb and a new brick i'll get my amazing monitor back, and I'll probably buy another one
post #3012 of 6485
$550 for a Pixel Perfect 2720MDP GOLD. Price seems reasonable or should I renegotiate?.
post #3013 of 6485
Red-cap is back from vacation and I finally got his reply to my PCB issue and request for a green PCB:
Quote:
the information for green PCB is correct?
crossover told us that the green one and blue one are same ( the blue one is better , they told )
you tried overclock ?

thank you
Sincerely yours
Red-Cap

So it appears the crossover company is telling the sellers the blue one is better? Maybe its just cheaper for them to manufacture lol or the problems only crop up with the blue one in the US.
post #3014 of 6485
Quote:
Originally Posted by nisc24 View Post

I think I'm going to at minimum try a new power brick, probably the one in the post above^
I'm sorry that you didn't receive very good news, I had some positive feedback from AW
"We've made request to Manufactuerer and we may have it early next week.
As soon as we have Green PCB, we will send it via Fedex. "
so hopefully with the green pcb and a new brick i'll get my amazing monitor back, and I'll probably buy another one

I'm quite jealous of you right now.
post #3015 of 6485
Quote:
Originally Posted by tehpsyc View Post

I'm quite jealous of you right now.

I received word from AW again (1 day turnaround???) and he/she said that the green pcb is on the way, fed ex has it arriving on Monday.

If this truly works out then AW is on point. But I still will probably order that new power brick just to be on the safe side. If I notice any flickering i'm going to have to install a heatsink as well.

I will update again whenever I receive the PCB, it's still in KR right now so I'm sure it might get pushed back with customs/etc.
post #3016 of 6485
Keep us posted, I'm trying to get red-cap to send me a green one but he certainly doesn't ever do anything without making me jump through some hoops
post #3017 of 6485
Is there a crossover 30" club thread or is it also included in this one? I didn't check all 300 pages...
Anyways, I ordered 3 of those for eyefinity and received them yesterday, very nice and sturdy build however I got a small problem on 2 of them. One monitor has the power push button broken so now I can't turn it off/on. The other monitor doesn't have a power led (which is an aesthetic problem only...).

So, anyone knows how I can fix the push button problem?
post #3018 of 6485
Quote:
Originally Posted by barvybe View Post

Ditto - couldn't find anything at higher resolution than that with HDMI.
I ordered this cable: Accell B119B-007J UltraAV Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable
Had read a few comments on the one you purchased that there was flicker, etc. and that this was resolved with a different cable. So I spent $8 more for one that seemed to have universally good results. Will be curious if the one you got works out or not - certainly hope so. I wanted to just be done and over with no returns, etc.
Will keep you posted on what if anything AW offers to compensate....
- P

Just an update that the mini DisplayPort > DisplayPort cable worked perfectly on my iMac. I plugged it in and switched the Gold over to DP, OSX instantly recognized it and used 2560x1440.
post #3019 of 6485
Hi all,

Myself i have a yamakasi 27" but my friend bought the crossover 27Q LED/LED-P.
He says he has red striped on his picture, from the boot on; it worked fine for like 5 minutes but now he has lines like this


(Not my or his picture, he found it online to show me the problem)

He's using the supplied dvi-d cable.

Anyone seen this before?
Extremepc
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Extremepc
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The Duke
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Revodrive x2 240 ST31500341 ST32000641AS HD103UJ 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
BH10LS30 Scythe mugen 2 Windows 7 Ultimate Yamakasi Q270 SE 
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post #3020 of 6485
I've seen that on video cards overclocked too high tongue.gif
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