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CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED Monitor Club - Page 312

post #3111 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Remix65 View Post

ebay takes a final value fee of 9%. ($320) if just sold through paypal that's an extra $28 x4 that's $115.2 add paypal fee on top of that. and shipping 4 boxes is expensive... shipping monitors is bulky and expensive.
if a buyer with great feedback wants to do paypal invoice i jump on it. it saves us both money. and headache of dealing with ebay feedback. i made a profit of $120 total on the monitors i bought. and i bought them from ebay.
and if he was to cut me a deal and keep the stands that'd have been even better. he could just sell the stands on ebay. someone would want them. i use ergotrons on all my monitors...

Good man for using ergotron lol and I see your point, perhaps try messaging another seller and see if they'd do it, I'm sure one of them would be up to the task.
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post #3112 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Azefore View Post

Good man for using ergotron lol and I see your point, perhaps try messaging another seller and see if they'd do it, I'm sure one of them would be up to the task.
4 monitors could save me at least $160 total and he'd still make more than what he's selling through ebay... and make even more by selling the stands, accessories and boxes...
    
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post #3113 of 6483
So, I'm happy to say that I picked up my 2 27Q's yesterday from ParcelForce and paid ~£56 customs charges which I thought was reasonable. They were from the seller lightnspace who has been known for sending out CrossOver 27QD's (CrossOver Blade) but I received my ordered 27Q's. I emailed him beforehand specifically stating that I required the 27Q's and not the Blades so it may be down to this, or as with most things in the Korean saga, fluke rolleyes.gif

I have tested 1 monitor so far with no ill effects - I can't see any stuck pixels but their may be a bit of the yellow tint towards the bottom of the panel. It's not bothering me yet, and it is so faint I still can't tell if I'm imagining it or not! Will hopefully get some time tonight to try the other monitor and I'll let you know how it goes!

PCB wise, I have yet to check, will have a look when I pop them on monitor arms.
post #3114 of 6483
Hey,

Nice one for getting the proper monitors.

One thing which mine is it hums and depending whats on the screen makes it hum more loudly or quiety. Also seems like the pitch goes up.

If I put a full white screen on its the loudest. Its quote annoying actually, changing to black the buzz goes off its very noticeable.

Can you see if you get the same with your monitors? And is there any fix?
post #3115 of 6483
Has anyone tested these monitors with Dell laptops? I have my work laptop in a docking station, but the dock has two dvi ports shown here:



I'm pretty sure they're dual link capable. Would these displays with no scalers work?
post #3116 of 6483
So my green PCB finally arrived from red-cap, about a month after my initial failure of the first PCB. The second blue PCB still seems to be ok, though I was getting rare flickering, I think the heatsink helped mitigate a lot of the potential issues. Here are some side-by-side comparisons of the green and blue PCB, as well as the blue PCB with the heatsink installed. So far the monitor appears to be running great, but until I can get an adapter is gonna be unused while my perfect pixel shimian stays the main.

Here are some pictures:

http://imgur.com/a/REuDu

Unrelated note, if anyone has any insight, do you think it would be difficult to swap panels between the Shimian and the Crossover? The Shimian has no dead pixels while my crossover has one, but I like the housing/case/stand of the crossover much better. Now that the internals of the crossover appear to be repaired I have the option of doing that, but I dunno if it would be worth it. I'd rather have the crossover be the main monitor and maybe use the Shimian as a vertical 2nd monitor, but I'd want my main monitor to be the perfect pixel one. I've had the crossover open so many times I don't think would be much of an issue, but the Shimian I haven't cracked open and I understand its a little more difficult (held together by adhesive)
post #3117 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by binarysmacker View Post

One thing which mine is it hums and depending whats on the screen makes it hum more loudly or quiety. Also seems like the pitch goes up.
If I put a full white screen on its the loudest. Its quote annoying actually, changing to black the buzz goes off its very noticeable.
Can you see if you get the same with your monitors? And is there any fix?

I can't say I have that issue, or not yet anyway! I have heard reports of multiple monitors doing this though - not just the Korean IPS's.
post #3118 of 6483
Nearly five months of flawless usage with my 27Q. Then bam, no picture. Opened up the unit and yep. You guessed it. Mosfet issue. I send an email to AccessoriesWhole, hope to hear back from them soon.
post #3119 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by jorojr View Post

Nearly five months of flawless usage with my 27Q. Then bam, no picture. Opened up the unit and yep. You guessed it. Mosfet issue. I send an email to AccessoriesWhole, hope to hear back from them soon.

Blue or Green?
post #3120 of 6483
Here's my sob story and why I'd steer people away from the Crossover 27Q and toward a Shimian or Catleap.

I ordered an LED-P recently from ta_planet (Kinam). It arrived super fast and I could see no particular flaws with the screen. No I did not order pixel perfect. No I did not notice any pixel defects. My only gripe with the picture was that you couldn't turn the brightness down far enough. The overall build, on the other hand, I did not care for in real life. The metal cage with overly bright blue LED jammed in did not appeal to me. It's unusual and solid-feeling, but metal construction makes the monitor unnecessarily heavy and unwieldy vs. plastic.

Then I did a bad thing. I decided to use the Crossover on a monitor arm. The design of the monitor arm has you screw a plate into the monitor VESA holes. Then you slide that plate onto the mount. So to traverse the plate, I used the longer (actually normal-length) screws that came with the monitor arm. Bad move. Before I realized it, one of the screws had impacted the back-most PCB (with the power and DVI) and broken one or two of the densely-packed traces. To save space, they made the PCB multi-layer: the corresponding part on the Catleap is twice as long. I am absolutely lost about trying to repair the trace. I emailed ta_planet a couple times to try and purchase a replacement circuit board. At first the seller said they'd try and get one from the manufacturer, but then stopped responding. I don't blame him; it's neither his fault nor the manufacturer's. But I'm left with a $350 brick for want of that DigitalWave PCB. And I do fault the design somewhat for sticking a circuit board right in the path of their smaller-than-standard mounting screws. I don't think you would have that catastrophic result with many other brands.

So if you really want the Crossover despite the caveats, the lesson is to only use the extra-short mounting screws that come with it!
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