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CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED Monitor Club - Page 463

post #4621 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by myrtleee34 View Post

Which version did you order up?

looks like the 27-Q
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post #4622 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by sintinian View Post

...mine came with a blue pcb...
are you referring to the pcb behind the rear center stand/vesa area, or the one to the right of center
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post #4623 of 6483
Yeah. Like vuman619 said, I ordered the 27Q. This one specifically.
post #4624 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by m.oreilly View Post

are you referring to the pcb behind the rear center stand/vesa area, or the one to the right of center
I'm referring to the one at the centre, its quite small and very blue :-/ Also there is a large green one to the left of it, not to the right

I checked the yellow tint on a completely white background and it is worse than I thought, it starts about half way down the screen and is very noticeable at the sides, top and bottom of the display. I'm so disappointed in AW as I asked if they check the screens first. Has anyone received a refund for this particular problem?
Edited by sintinian - 1/24/13 at 7:09am
post #4625 of 6483
in the descriptions i see, sellers state that the yellow is 'acceptable'. wouldn't hurt to inquire...
this is why i asked, re position of the blue pcb:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/3640#post_18685021
Edited by m.oreilly - 1/24/13 at 8:40am
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post #4626 of 6483
If its not a perfect pixel model or stated heavy "tinting" deems the panel defective, you get what you paid for. "Yellowing" is rather common in panels.

Wouldn't hurt to try tho.
 
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post #4627 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by m.oreilly View Post

in the descriptions i see, sellers state that the yellow is 'acceptable'. wouldn't hurt to inquire...
this is why i asked, re position of the blue pcb:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/3640#post_18685021

There's no mention of yellow on the monitor I bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110867210291?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I checked the back of the monitor with a torch and I now see the blue PCB in the dead centre is the largest of the 2 and the green PCB to the left of this is smaller, but I thought it was the centre board that overheats. Anyway as far as I know the overheating only affects the general brightness which I'm not really worried about right now, i'm not even that bothered about the back-light bleed; it's the yellowing that seems to be getting worse, maybe it's just in my head as I'm more away of it now, it really does ruin the whole image... I message AW yesterday and today, I'll wait to see what they say
Edited by sintinian - 1/24/13 at 9:27am
post #4628 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by sintinian View Post

I'm referring to the one at the centre, its quite small and very blue :-/ Also there is a large green one to the left of it, not to the right

I checked the yellow tint on a completely white background and it is worse than I thought, it starts about half way down the screen and is very noticeable at the sides, top and bottom of the display. I'm so disappointed in AW as I asked if they check the screens first. Has anyone received a refund for this particular problem?

Nothing to be disappointed about. Regardless if you bought Korean monitors or monitors from sasmung,dell or others. Your going to run into either back-light bleed, minimal bleed or tinting. Not all panels are made equal. This can be be fought by using color profiles or calibrating the monitor yourself.
Nothing is wrong with the monitor that would need a seller to interact unless the pixels meet or exceed the count allowed by the seller dependning if it is a PP model or NON-pp model.
Since I'm assuming this isn't a PP model, your monitor has a higher chance for defects which is acceptable to the manufacturer under a certain extent. If you bought a PP model the tint is still acceptable just dead/stuck pixels aren't.

Not to worry though, individuals either have a Blue/Yellow or no tint. Again as I said this is fixed by using color profiles or calibrating the monitor yourself.

Other options are checking the cables inside the monitor to make sure nothing is loose.
Use another DVI-D cable.
In a few instances it can be the Graphics card. I've had a monitor plugged into a ATI 6950 and then a GTX680. No tint on the 6950 then I got slight tint on the 680.


Enjoy the monitor as it seems you have no other issues with it.
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post #4629 of 6483
I don't know how much people here like monoprice (i am sure it is discussed somewhere else) but i did see this up

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=113&cp_id=11307&cs_id=1130703&p_id=9579&seq=1&format=1#largeimage

It is exactly the same as the Crossover Blade model i bought from AW just re-branded to "Monoprice".

To give an update on my monitor: The only issue i had left was minor light bleed and come to find out i was running at full brightness. I turned it down to 70 percent which helped my eyes a bit and more importantly the light bleed is virtually gone even on a black screen.

Other than than that it has been a few months now and i have had no problems.thumb.gif
post #4630 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloudz00x View Post

Nothing to be disappointed about. Regardless if you bought Korean monitors or monitors from sasmung,dell or others. Your going to run into either back-light bleed, minimal bleed or tinting. Not all panels are made equal. This can be be fought by using color profiles or calibrating the monitor yourself.
Nothing is wrong with the monitor that would need a seller to interact unless the pixels meet or exceed the count allowed by the seller dependning if it is a PP model or NON-pp model.
Since I'm assuming this isn't a PP model, your monitor has a higher chance for defects which is acceptable to the manufacturer under a certain extent. If you bought a PP model the tint is still acceptable just dead/stuck pixels aren't.

Not to worry though, individuals either have a Blue/Yellow or no tint. Again as I said this is fixed by using color profiles or calibrating the monitor yourself.

Other options are checking the cables inside the monitor to make sure nothing is loose.
Use another DVI-D cable.
In a few instances it can be the Graphics card. I've had a monitor plugged into a ATI 6950 and then a GTX680. No tint on the 6950 then I got slight tint on the 680.


Enjoy the monitor as it seems you have no other issues with it.

Ironically, there isn't a single dead/stuck pixel pixel on my screen, but having used it I now realise that non-uniform colour is far more distracting. I knew the risk I was taking, but it is always frustrating to fall into the minority. The monitor is, for the most part, great.

Colour calibration solves a generally tinted screen, but my issue is only half the screen is tinted yellow and is worse in some parts than others, that's what's annoying me the most.

What do you think of this method for reducing back-light bleed? http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?s=d39bb728fa29664704ac0710022d4ed3&t=1032268
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