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CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED Monitor Club - Page 52

post #511 of 6482
Quote:
Originally Posted by tarek2012 View Post

Ya i know not all stuck pixel can be removed, maybe 10 to 20% of stuck pixels can be remove, i will not send it back because the stuck pixel is only visible on dark background and to pay 400$ for a monitor that coast 1000$ it is sure that it have some kind of problem. Thank you Wage for saying that not all stuck pixel can be removed because people should know before buying what the risks are, for now i have to live with stuck green pixel in the middle of my display confusedsmiley.png

When I got my monitor, I had a stuck red pixel. It was actually quite noticeable...I picked it out even on a high color picture background (wallpaper of saltwater fish with corals in the background). In fact, it was so big and prominent I am thinking it must have been 4 pixels all right next to each other that were stuck red. I massaged mine for 1-2 minutes every day and ran a pixel repair tool on it for about a week (not 100% on time cuz my monitor would go to sleep after 30 min of activity). After a week of doing that, my stuck pixel had shrunk a TON. Now...it is still there but I can't hardly see it. With an all black background I can barely see it from about 12 inches away.

So mine didn't go away completely (some of the pixels in cluster did), but it did get much less to the point that it doesn't bother me in the slightest.
post #512 of 6482
Wage, i work in webdesign not printing or photo work but i agree with you that this monitor is not for color demanding work like video editing or photography, but for my need i think i can calibrated with nvidia panel (make it more warm).
But the main thing is that everyone should think before purchasing this display about the risk, i think this display is very nice for the price but you should expect that its not a perfect monitor.
post #513 of 6482
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobn4burton View Post

When I got my monitor, I had a stuck red pixel. It was actually quite noticeable...I picked it out even on a high color picture background (wallpaper of saltwater fish with corals in the background). In fact, it was so big and prominent I am thinking it must have been 4 pixels all right next to each other that were stuck red. I massaged mine for 1-2 minutes every day and ran a pixel repair tool on it for about a week (not 100% on time cuz my monitor would go to sleep after 30 min of activity). After a week of doing that, my stuck pixel had shrunk a TON. Now...it is still there but I can't hardly see it. With an all black background I can barely see it from about 12 inches away.
So mine didn't go away completely (some of the pixels in cluster did), but it did get much less to the point that it doesn't bother me in the slightest.


Massage method worked for releasing stuck pixels.

Another good reason not to get the Glass option.. unless you have no problem with taking it off to massage the screen.
Edited by ToxicAdam - 4/9/12 at 1:02am
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post #514 of 6482
Quote:
Originally Posted by tarek2012 View Post

Wage, i work in webdesign not printing or photo work but i agree with you that this monitor is not for color demanding work like video editing or photography, but for my need i think i can calibrated with nvidia panel (make it more warm).
But the main thing is that everyone should think before purchasing this display about the risk, i think this display is very nice for the price but you should expect that its not a perfect monitor.

If I got one of these it would be for painting, photography, and gaming. Is there anything besides a dead pixel or two (my current monitor has 4, with approximately the same pixel density, and I can deal with it) that can't be fixed with a color calibrator?
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post #515 of 6482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Futzy View Post

If I got one of these it would be for painting, photography, and gaming. Is there anything besides a dead pixel or two (my current monitor has 4, with approximately the same pixel density, and I can deal with it) that can't be fixed with a color calibrator?

Backlight bleed? Uniformity? Customer service in case your panel goes dead or screws up and you need a replacement immediately?

I'm not even a graphics professional yet know the small amount that's needed in order to point those few things out. There's a big difference between buying these A- panels for personal use (which you most obviously would be using it for) and professional use.

It's as simple as the difference between buying that bargain scanner and another which costs 10x as much as scans 20x as fast. One is overkill for home use, the other you could possibly get away with in a professional environment if you ignore things like productivity worsening, the slower productivity costing you money, and that time lost costing you more than what you initially saved. No one was claiming these aren't great panels for personal painting, or personal photography, but if you have money for a good colorimeter ($300+) and actually do professional graphics/design work on a monitor all day long then you can likely afford a domestic A+ panel and the warranty and support that comes with it.
Edited by Wage - 4/9/12 at 4:18am
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post #516 of 6482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wage View Post

Backlight bleed? Uniformity? Customer service in case your panel goes dead or screws up and you need a replacement immediately?
I'm not even a graphics professional yet know the small amount that's needed in order to point those few things out. There's a big difference between buying these A- panels for personal use (which you most obviously would be using it for) and professional use.
It's as simple as the difference between buying that bargain scanner and another which costs 10x as much as scans 20x as fast. One is overkill for home use, the other you could possibly get away with in a professional environment if you ignore things like productivity worsening, the slower productivity costing you money, and that time lost costing you more than what you initially saved. No one was claiming these aren't great panels for personal painting, or personal photography, but if you have money for a good colorimeter ($300+) and actually do professional graphics/design work on a monitor all day long then you can likely afford a domestic A+ panel and the warranty and support that comes with it.

I'm just a student and am looking at these because I can't afford an A+ panel, and have access to a colorimeter. The warranties seem good enough; if you get a DOA panel you can send it back, if you get an abundance of dead pixels you can send it back. I haven't seen anyone post about significant backlight bleed.
Not saying I have to have one of these, just want other opinions.
Edited by Futzy - 4/9/12 at 5:04am
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post #517 of 6482
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakemfbacon View Post

does it still look good without the AA? Why do these resolutions not need much AA?

Because you don't notice a difference.

On my current 27", by Samsung that displays 1920 x 1080, I literally CAN NOT tell the difference between 0x, 2x, and 4x AA.
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post #518 of 6482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sazexa View Post

Because you don't notice a difference.
On my current 27", by Samsung that displays 1920 x 1080, I literally CAN NOT tell the difference between 0x, 2x, and 4x AA.

That sounds like a game that doesn't support AA. At 27" on a mere 1080p 2/4/8x should make a very visible difference. 16 can be hard to spot, but aside from just amount there's the type, and FXAA/MLAA, which all make a considerable IQ difference.
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post #519 of 6482
@ derfer

I tested a lot of games on my 1440p panels and you don't see any difference between any type of AA or AA Off. The only differences you see is the number of frame per second you get after turning it off. wink.gif
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post #520 of 6482
What is "a lot of games"? Please list specific titles, otherwise I call BS, user error, partial blindness or all of the above rolleyes.gif

I cannot tell the difference between high levels of AA, but there's always a difference between 0xAA and 2xAA. Always.
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